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Aussie Thinline

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by nutty, Nov 6, 2009.

  1. old_picker

    old_picker Tele-Afflicted

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    mm i disagree with that - i use a 2" long top bearing router on all builds except blackwood -

    you need:
    to trim with a bandsaw to .5 mm of a fine biro outline of your template
    a top quality bit which should be changed or sharpened every 5 bodies
    a good router in a decent table

    with care it is possible to tidy up a body in one pass in under 2 minutes
    the key is to leave as little material as possible for the router - a decent 1/4" bimetal bandsaw blade is very accurate and you can cut down almost on top of the line as there is a very small kerf

    if your cutting with a jigsaw forget it - better to use a sanding drum with 60 grit paper before you go any where near a router
     
  2. jublian

    jublian TDPRI Member

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    looking good mate.

    fellow aussie here, i have made up two tas oak body blanks with the intention of using my as yet un-opened bandsaw.

    unfortunately i moved to a place that did not allow working on guitars (small sharehouse)

    hopefully i'll git a move on over summer
     
  3. Fortsbest

    Fortsbest Tele-Meister

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    Nice wood grain. And from prior experience, fixin the errors is half the fun of building them so you know what not to do next time.

    :lol:
     
  4. nutty

    nutty TDPRI Member

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    As a newbie, I think gathering the tools has been half the fun. I have been slowly building my range of Triton gear - I don't think it is being made any more so it getting expensive on ebay but the quality of the tools is fantastic (so I have no excuses for any screw ups).

    I am moving on to the "Aussie" part of this build. Instead of an f hole I would like to do a Southern Cross - something like this

    38a stars.jpg

    however, I'm not going to attempt the stars if I can't get them right. I will revert to an f hole or no hole at all.

    I have been practising the star holes on a scrap of maple. Drilling a hole in the centre then using a fine scroll saw blade (on my new Triton jig saw) to cut a slot into each point of the star.

    40a practice star.jpg

    I have then used needle files to finish the points.

    41a practice star.jpg

    I am not 100% happy with the points just yet. I don't have a triangular file that is small enough to give me an even cut through the depth of the maple. I can get it sharp on the surface but I'd like it to look like it was laser cut.

    I was thinking of cutting a fine triangular wedge of timber and gluing some 180 or 240 grit paper to it. Or maybe using an emery board or nail file.

    I'm open to any suggestions???
     
  5. kiwitele

    kiwitele TDPRI Member

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    i was expecting a kangaroo shaped "f" hole
     
  6. 68thinline

    68thinline Tele-Afflicted

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    Do you have a dremel? You could also use an inlay bit in a standard router to cut the basic shape, then use your sandpaper/wedge idea to put the points on it.
     
  7. nutty

    nutty TDPRI Member

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    I hadn't thought of a kangaroo - I want to keep whatever hole(s) pretty small because I would like to keep as much of the grain as possible.

    I do have a dremel but the smallest bit I could find at the local hardware was 1/8". How does an inlay bit differ from a standard cutting bit?
     
  8. 68thinline

    68thinline Tele-Afflicted

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    I was thinking of a downward spiral bit, but the smallest I've seen is also 1/8".

    I'm enjoying the build. Are you doing a neck as well?
     
  9. nutty

    nutty TDPRI Member

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    The neck for this one is an Allparts. I bought it early on - it's got a 1 5/8th nut width with a 7 1/4" radius. I am having trouble finding a pre-slotted nut for this neck too. The nut slot is radiused and I can find plenty of pre-slotted curved nuts that are 1 11/16 but none at 1 5/8th. I have inquired about getting a nut fitted but they want the neck on the body so it will have to wait if I go that route.

    I might get a curved blank nut and have a go at slotting it myself but I don't want to compromise the sound.

    I would like to build a neck in the (not too distant) future but I need to study up a bit more on truss rods etc. It would also mean some more tools.
     
  10. 68thinline

    68thinline Tele-Afflicted

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    A flat file should take 1/32" off each end without too much trouble. I haven't made my own neck yet either, but I understand that the procedure would be to set the nut, tape off the surrounding wood (for protection) then make a few passes with a file. A sanding block may work as well.
     
  11. nutty

    nutty TDPRI Member

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    the stars are done

    Well the stars are complete.

    I ended up printing the stars on envelope labels. While practicing on scrap I found that my pencil lines were fading and smudging before I had finished filing so I needed something more permanent.

    42 star label.jpg

    I stuck the labels in position then masked the area with gaffers tape to provide much needed protection as can be seen by the pock marks. Those needle files aren't called needle files for nothing!!!

    45 pock marks.jpg

    I drilled and used a fine hacksaw blade to cut the slots then a combination of flat and wedge shaped files to finish off. Each star took just over an hour of filing - slow and steady.

    I was very happy with the result. I used a mild solvent to remove the sticky residue from the labels which showed up the grain nicely.

    47 stars no residue.jpg

    Then a quick sand with an orbital sander at 120 grit to remove all the pencil lines. The body actually hummed its fundamental through the star holes while I was sanding which was a nice surprise.

    51 stars body shot.jpg

    this is going to be a tobacco burst - I am thinking water based dyes and finishing with shellac but I have no real idea at this stage. I have a lot of sanding in front of me and an interstate trip which will give me time to research.....
     
  12. barkley

    barkley Tele-Afflicted

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    wow, that looks great!!!
    but isnt the little star on the other side?

    ...

    ...

    ...

    ...

    just kidding!!

    Seriously tho, dont you think the colour should be blue or black and blue burst instead of tabacco burst? you know, southern cross and all...
     
  13. fordfanjpn

    fordfanjpn Tele-Holic

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    It's kind of late to mention this, but it looks like you didn't leave much wood for the top strap pin to screw in to. You probably should have left a little extra wood in there. But hopefully it won't be a problem.

    Bill
     
  14. guityak

    guityak Tele-Meister

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    Nice so far. Aussie colours for an Aussie build? But just what are Aussie colours?
     
  15. Brendo

    Brendo Tele-Holic

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    Green and Gold. VB style.
     
  16. barkley

    barkley Tele-Afflicted

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    yeah green and gold, but we also claim red, white and blue and, yellow, black and red from our flags so....
    pretty much just not purple or orange! :lol:

    A green and gold burst southern-cross-o-caster would be pretty sweet;)
     
  17. nutty

    nutty TDPRI Member

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    thanks for the tip Bill - I'll take extra care when mounting that pin.

    Nice try barkley - I thought for a moment the Kiwi flag might have it the other way around,

    I am in two minds over the colours. I had decided on a tobacco burst before I decided on a thinline or the southern cross.

    This site - http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30182

    gave me the notion of the water based dyes and shellac and the demo just happens to be green and gold

    green gold.jpg
     
  18. barkley

    barkley Tele-Afflicted

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    Sweet , green-and-goldocaster!
    Howd thecolouring and finishing go?
     
  19. iansmitchell

    iansmitchell Tele-Afflicted

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    Progress update here?
     
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