I think I'll drill a wire through to the vibrato cavity and ground the strings that way. How did you ground the strings on your build?Glad I could convince you. It's so much better than jamming a couple wires through a small hole and then running those up to the plate.
Your build is looking great so far. Thanks for the tip on rasps. I do appreciate a good rasp. I have two good ones and they're among my most prized tools.
Have you thought about how you're going to ground the bridge/strings?
Beautiful Jag build, can you tell us what paint you used for your sea foam green finish ie paint brand and mix, number of coats, clear coats etc? Thanks.
I think I'll drill a wire through to the vibrato cavity and ground the strings that way. How did you ground the strings on your build?
That would be one option, but I wanted to keep the bridge in the same place to avoid altering the ergonomics of the body. My neck is just longer than standard.If you had a longer scale neck like 24.75" scale, would that mean the bridge location would be roughly .75" pushed back toward the trem?
I used files and rasps to extend the 7/16 roundover into the contours. To check progress, I made a little feeler by drilling a 7/8 hole into a piece of scrap.
View attachment 950736
And here it is on the back contour. I had to go less than 7/16" because of how thin the body becomes at its thinnest point. This is the result of the body being 1.5" thick and using contours based on the thicker strat body. I knew this was going to be necessary going in, and it doesn't look bad.
View attachment 950738
I'm using a pre-slotted fretboard from LMII with 24.75" scale length. I checked out the scale length by measuring from the nut slot to the 18th fret, which according to the Stew Mac fret calculator should be exactly 16.000". The 18th fret is off by close to 1/32":
View attachment 950740
This was measured with the end of the ruler placed at the edge of the nut slot, as shown:
View attachment 950741
I checked with both Mitutoyo and Shinwa (ie, high quality) rulers and got consistent results. I contacted LMII and they said this isn't normal, so I sent it back and ordered a replacement. The replacement is the same. Further investigation showed that the scale length is actually 24.72" and that the nut slot is appropriately placed for this scale. I decided to keep the replacement board as the scale length can be adjusted slightly with no real impact. Has anyone else seen something like this?
Right, they give the option of either centering the nut slot for use with zero frets, or of offsetting the slot by half the kerf so that the edge of the slot is perfectly located for the body-facing edge of the nut. For both boards I selected the kerf compensation.They make make take the nut slot into consideration when cutting it. The LMII slotting system I had years ago used to have a nut slot pin which was .010 different diameter than the regular fret slot pin.
Wedge index pin replacement for the Luthiers Mercantile Manual or Power Slotting Systems. In order to simplify off-setting the fingerboard nut slot, the index pin has been machined with a 0.006 inch offset from the pin center. Detailed instructions for using this index pin are attached. See...www.lmii.com
Yeah, same here. I've never measured another board either, but I'll be doing that going forward.Very interesting. I don't know that I've actually thoroughly measured one of my lmii boards. I always triple check to make sure that I've entered all the specs correctly, but then I get the board and assume it's correct. Then when I'm placing the bridge I'm measuring from either the nut or the 12th fret to locate it.
Now I'm scared to measure! But I've never had intonation problems with any of my builds either. Beyond what is normal for a guitar at least.
I'm in awe of this thread. I wish I could build a guitar like that!
Wondering if you could give some detail on how you got the copper shielding to sit in the cavities so neatly. I want to do this on my Jag, and your installation of the shielding is the best I've seen anywhere.
Hmm, that's a valid point. I actually have to file them down because I screwed up the alignment anyway, so I'll try another method.I think those nails will be an unwelcome surprise to some repairman down the road... You should consider bamboo skewers or plastic rod if you are going to leave them in there and maybe dull the point a bit....just my thinking after removing a few fretboards over the years.