Anyone else have a craftsman "electronic" table saw?

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CVTele Dan

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I just picked up a craftsman 10 inch "electronic" table saw with a wobbler type dado blade off cl for $25! It seems to work just fine. I figure the dado blade is probably worth that?

Does anyone have any experience with one of these saws?
 

CVTele Dan

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Here is a picture of it.

2015-09-29_06_01_41.jpg
 

tele_pathic

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I got a B&D table saw off craigslist for $50 and thought that was steal.

What are the electronics for? Angle of the blade?
 

CVTele Dan

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That's how you set the blade height or angle. Punch in the desired height/angle and it automatically adjusts. It's kinda cool, seems to be pretty close, time will tell.
I would have preferred good old crank handles, but for $25 how could I say no? :)
 

Vizcaster

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I had a non-electronic version of that table saw. Be careful with that fence because it locks from the rear rail which means its possible for it to lock a little off-kilter. The biggest difference with aftermarket fences like Biesemeyer are that they lock from the big "T" in the front. On the original fence I got the best results with an auxiliary fence mounted to it extending a few inches past the edge of the table.

Also get the instructions and go through the tune-up/set-up adjustments so you know the blade is parallel to the miter gauge slots and the fence is also.

Last thing I'd recommend is a thin-kerf carbide tippped blade (Freud or Forrest) to make the most of the small motor. You can make your own zero-clearance insert as well.

Nice score - best of luck with it.
 

OpenG Capo4

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Bud is right about squaring the blade to the miter slots. Its really important for the quality of the cut and for doing things like fret slotting where you want a tight slot.

My saw was off my 1/16" from the front to the back of the blade. That would have cut a fret slot a bit too wide even with a thin kerf blade.

I'll also add that the link belts are a big improvement. I got steel pullies for a 1/2" belt and a 1/2" link belt, it made a world of difference in how smooth the saw runs. I can balance a nickel on the edge of the table and it'll stay put without tipping over while I do a ripping cut.
 

CVTele Dan

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Thanks for the advice guys!

I squared the blade to the miter slots and it was off by at least 1/16" or more. I got it within feeler gage range of straight.

Put on a link belt, very cool, and smooth!

Cleaned up the top with some steel wool and a little 220 in a couple places.

Installed a Diablo thin cerf combo blade.

Re-zeroed the fence scale and set the blade height flush to the top of the table to calibrate the servo motors to 0.

The blade isn't quite perpendicular to the table, but very close. I got a little light between my square and the center of the blade, less than 0.010" for sure. I need to look into that.

Overall, I've spent three times as much on stuff for the saw than I paid for the saw! Craigslist I love you!
 

R. Stratenstein

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Nice. You'd think an electronic adjustment gadget like that wouldn't be very robust, but apparently in your case, it is. Wondering if that part of it went South on you, is there a way to replace the electronics with hand wheels or maybe analog switches to work the adjustments?
But in any case, great find, cool to spend the $$on upgrades, rather than the saw itself!
 

Vizcaster

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The blade isn't quite perpendicular to the table

There should be stops to adjust the max travel of the tilt - at zero and 45 degrees. on a non-electronic Craftsman those are set-screws visible in the top, on yours they might be underneath - look for something at the full end of the travel of the curved guides for the blade tilt.
 

tewitt1949

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I've had one for 30 years. I love it. If you have any questions feel free to get a hold of me.
 

Sharonkayeee

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I just picked up a craftsman 10 inch "electronic" table saw with a wobbler type dado blade off cl for $25! It seems to work just fine. I figure the dado blade is probably worth that? Does anyone have any experience with one of these saws?
I've had one for 30 years. I love it. If you have any questions feel free to get a hold of me.
 

Sharonkayeee

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Hello, I too have enjoyed my table saw since 1986, however yesterday it traveled all the way down when jog down button used, I removed front panel, cleaned all spade connections, display is ok, but won't raise blade
I disconnected power quickly, but seems stuck, is it possible to raise blade a little manually to take pressure
Off , I feel like it would work then, thanks, sharon
 

tewitt1949

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Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the sears electronic table saw. If you have it, is there any way I can get a copy of it? I will gladly pay for it.

My email address is t.e.witt@juno.com
 

AirDave

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I got my electronic TS for free when my neighbor was moving and didn't want it anymore!! I've cleaned it up, put on a new pulley, key and belt and tried straitening the bent motor mount... that's where I'm at a loss! When I want to go to full height the motor twists on the mount and the blade will not turn! I have not found any instructions on how to operate, or adjust?, the motor mount when needing full height cuts! I reduced the height to just over 2" and put a clamp on the end opposite the pulley and that seemed to help keep the pulley in line with the blade pulley, but still doesn't line up like it should.

I'm thinking about making a bracket that will hang onto the that end and bolt/clamp it to the trunion in some way.

Any suggestions, or what did you do with yours when you had to make such a cut?

Thank you!
 

Jim_in_PA

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Perhaps a local machinist or welder can help you repair or replace the bent motor mount. Parts for really old tools are sometimes hard to come by unless you can find a "donor" machine. Running it with something incredibly misaligned has to be looked at from a safety standpoint, too.
 

LeftFinger

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Dave is this a direct drive or a belt and pulley set up If its a belt you could be jamming the mandrel pulley and belt when you max out the blade height
 
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