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Discussion in 'Bad Dog Cafe' started by Colo Springs E, Feb 12, 2012.
job interviews (sometimes)
can't think of any other reason to wear one
How many guys are actually built like the model pictured?
Very few men fit the heroin-chic profile portrayed by the popular fashion magazines...and most aren't under 30 years of age.
To me it almost looks too tight, just standing up... try and sit down in it.
If you have to wear a suit all day, comfort has to be factored in. There can be a reasonable compromise between comfort and the "right" way to wear something, as defined by some writer in GQ (who probably works in cargo shorts and a tank top.)
I really haven't worn suits to work in about 15 years. Back then I probably owned about a dozen, now I'm down to two Burberrys. I wear them - sometimes - for weddings and funerals. Overall, I prefer a nice shirt (never with a tie), dress slacks and a casual jacket.
The build of the person matters a lot, it might be 90% of the equation.
Here are some pics from my suit collection. Its overboard for sure. I have a problem I guess.
I'm getting married in June, and I'm trying to find a suit. I've only been to a few places, and they keep measuring me up for suits that are way too big for me. I feel like a kid playing dress up in my dads suits. I understand that the suit will need to be tailored, but why do these places keep putting me in huge suits? Is it because you need more material to tailor it to my size? My main issue is the pants. I feel like I'm wearing parachute pants.
I definitely need help on this.
What is your build? What kind of fit do you want? Pleated or flat pants? Do you know what size you are? Meaning, do you know you are a 42 but they keep saying 44L?
Your views on tailored wool v these light-weight fashion jobs?
My jackets have to fit a little loose because I'm a trumpet player. Trying playing a wedding in a tux with a snug jacket--can't do it. Most of my suits get worn as much when I'm performing as any other time. I don't want to have to have 2 tuxes.
I use to like wearing clothes bigger than my size. It was my thing when I was younger.
No belly to hide.
Oh yeah, tuxes! I have one of those too.
I haven't worn it in at least a dozen years. I guess I should just chuck it out.
Need room for the shoulder holster.
I'm looking for a fitted look, similar to the picture in the first post. I'm 5'10" and about 150 lbs. They're saying I'm a 40R which seems ok. Some fit ok, and some feel big, so I'm not sure what's going on there. I think one place was trying to put me in a 42 or even a 44 which definitely looked big on me. All of the pants they keep bringing out, even though I explain that I like a fitted look, have been ok in the waist, and HUGE in the legs. Is that normal, and I just need them tailored? Maybe it's because I'm shopping at chains like Men's Warehouse. Is that a mistake?
The most important thing I ever learned about suits is to try them on before travelling to an out of town wedding with one. Having to wear a suit when you have gained 40 lbs since you bought it makes for a very uncomfortable evening.
You need more of a european fit. Its the brands. Ralph Lauren and brands at Macys or Dillards are more American and bigger. They also have wider legs. Go somewhere like Nordstrom or Saks. I know its a lot of $ but you get what you pay for. Now if you dont want to go there then just search for flat front, straight leg pants and a good fitting suit. Then tailor it and bring it in around the mid section. Make sure the shoulders fir properly and that its not baggy in your arm area (you cant tailor that).
I am 6' 2" and 210 and wear a 42L. If you are that small then a 40r seems ok, maybe even a 38?
Find a good tailor and have them made bespoke. If you travel a lot, have two trousers made for every jacket. A well-made suit will last you a lifetime if you treat it right, and doesn't go out of style.
Brian Setzer - but you have to have the hair also. Otherwise the Men's Warehouse because you get a guarantee you'll like the way you look from a guy who doesn't look that good to me.
cap217: Look at the Brooks Bros. website for a description of the sizing and fit of their suits. A good place to begin. If your are 150 and 5'10", you likely need to ask the clothiers about the drop - difference between chest and waist sizes - in suits. Trim fit suits have a bigger drop - waist smaller than chest; so called executive fit, portly, stout or big suits go in the opposite direction.
Also, when buying a suit, the coat should be sewn together and not glued across the chest area. Cheaper suits are glued and will literally show bubbles where the glue comes undone after a drycleaning or two. Some European cut suits have more padded shoulders, while the classic American cut has a more natural shoulder.
Anyone will tell you that you're better off going to a tailor and having a suit custom made, and they're right... but it's typically a good bit more expensive than "off the rack." If you get something off the rack that needs minimal adjustments, you should be fine. But you gotta get the basic size right first.
You can go to places like MW and dept stores... but it's a little like shopping at Guitar Center: don't expect the employee there to know their stuff, YOU have to know your stuff. Sometimes you can find knowledgeable staff... other times, not so much. I'm appalled when I walk in some dept stores or MW and you see a bunch of guys wearing ill-fitting suits. That's all you need to know right there.
The most important thing is to get the shoulders and jacket length (not sleeves, the actual jacket itself) right from the beginning. Most other stuff (taking in the waist, shortening the sleeves etc) should be no problem on most suits if you have something of a 'normal' build. But for whatever reason, MW and the dept stores REALLY want to put you in a suit that's too big! The last two I bought were actually from MW, and now I have them pretty dialed in... but they fitted me with a 40S in the particular brand I went with, and I should probably be 38S (I'm kind of right in between, so the 40S isn't really that bad). Fortunately, it was one of those slim fit style suits and now that I've made 3 or 4 adjustments over time, they both actually look better than probably 80% of the men I see wearing suits.
But this most recent one I bought the other day, my wife and I did the shopping--I didn't ask for or really want the help of the sales person. Nice lady... but I don't think she really knew how to fit me in a suit.
If you are being helped by an associate, whatever jacket size they tell you that you need, go to the next smaller down, and give that a try. You might find the size immediately down is actually better fitting.
If you know someone with good knowledge of fit, take them with you.