another oil only thread on mohagany

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by funkymann1, Jun 26, 2015.

  1. funkymann1

    funkymann1 Tele-Holic

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    what steps do i take to get this finish , i believe FMIC said they used tru oil...i know how to rub it in but how do you buff it out without getting compound in the grain?
     

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  2. ThreePeace

    ThreePeace Tele-Meister

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  3. funkymann1

    funkymann1 Tele-Holic

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    so i guess i try to wetsand with oil & 2000 grit after a few coats?...i'll try it on some scrap...
    with all the oil finishes that have been done on here can anyone help out?
    Ive always thought that you need to someone how buff it after the last oil coat but i know compound will get in the grain as it happened before last time i did this finish...
     
  4. bullfrogblues

    bullfrogblues Friend of Leo's

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    You'll need to fill the pores if you don't want compound getting in. I put on the tru oil with 600 grit wet/dry paper for enough coats to fill the pores, then continued for a few more thin coats with a cloth, then buff.
     
  5. Bongocaster

    Bongocaster Friend of Leo's

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    Man, both of the guitars above look nice. Mahogany and true oil, yes!
     
  6. mcsmitty

    mcsmitty Tele-Meister

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    Ah, cripes.

    I've been painstakingly refinishing a late 90's Gibson The Paul II, stripped down to bare beautiful mahogany (very very similar in to yours in terms of thickness and top profile, ThreePeace), and I've been agonizing over how to finish it. Yours came out exactly like I'd want mine to, right down to the P-90's and minimal black appointments.

    I knew I didn't want gloss, but I thought I'd settled on Satin Wipe-on Poly. But this now has me thinking Tru-Oil...
     
  7. KCStratMan

    KCStratMan Tele-Afflicted

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    As per Bulldog, wet sand the first few coats with 600 - 800 grit and oil, the fine sawdust will form slurry that helps fill pores. For satin, finish coat wet sand with 1000 - 1200 grit, for gloss go to 1600 - 2000. Then a few more finish coats of just oil wiped well, thoroughly dried, and buffed by hand or wheel with soft cotton cloth or lambswool bonnet. For total satin, buff out with #0000 steel wool. The key is to let just those first few coats level in and dry nicely, then the next dozen coats are wiped on extremely thin with very clean lint free cloth and fry well between coats. Properly done oil finish will be as beautiful as it is time consuming and labor intensive.
    mcsmitty, I would not recommend wipe on poly it is like elmer's school glue, cloudy and soft compared to oil or varnish, oil finish is much richer looking and feels like wood not plastic.
    I recommend Woodcraft Tried and True Pro Varnish Oil, it is a blend of pure boiled linseed oil and a high percentage content of natural varnish resin, no thinners. It is very thick and slower to dry than the commercial oil finishes, but produces beautiful results and very durable finish when cured. Gun oil, Tung oil, Danish oil, etc. are all different blends of linseed oil or tung oil and solvents, thinner, drying and hardening agents, etc. and are similar but have different drying times and slight differences in glossiness and hardness once dry. All of them can be tinted with Transtint dye to enhance grain or evenly tint color of whole piece. Maple, not mahogany but, here are a few necks I have done lately in tinted varnish oil:
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  8. Frank'n'censed

    Frank'n'censed Doctor of Teleocity

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    Man, that rich tone & grain are gorgeous!! I just noticed the offsetting pickups; a dogear/bridge & ______/neck? Doesn't look like a soap bar, must be a humbucker sized p90, like a GFS Mean 90?
     
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