Andy Summers hardware store bender

Discussion in 'B-Bender Forum' started by Greg M, Mar 1, 2010.

  1. Greg M

    Greg M Tele-Holic

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  2. Greg M

    Greg M Tele-Holic

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    Well, one part wasn't from the hardware store: the string hub which I bought from Bill Bores. But I'll be able to make a substitute if I ever do another one.
     
  3. mrmorrison

    mrmorrison Tele-Afflicted

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    Awesome! Great job, man!
     
  4. tgfmike

    tgfmike Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Nice bit of engineering GM. And a real nice looking tele!
     
  5. 8painting

    8painting TDPRI Member

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    Awesome setup dude!
     
  6. HOBBSTER01

    HOBBSTER01 Friend of Leo's

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    How about a parts list for us wannabee craftsmen.
     
  7. J. Hayes

    J. Hayes Friend of Leo's

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    Hey Greg........

    What's the mini toggle on the control plate and the knob below the control plate's function(s). I see the cover on the back so I know you've got something going on there.........Thanks, JH in Va.
     
  8. Greg M

    Greg M Tele-Holic

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    There is a little boost circuit called the Stratoblaster which was created by Alembic some years ago. I think Jerry Garcia had either that or something similar in his Tiger guitar. I can't remember which layout I used, maybe the one at http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/content/view/64/26/, but there are many to be found just by searching stratoblaster.

    There is a booster in the Fender Andy Summers model which is very similar to the Eric Clapton boost. There is a discussion here that might interest you: http://www.tdpri.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-164342.html. It would be cheaper to make one like I did (that's why I did it:D) if you have any soldering prowess.
     
  9. Greg M

    Greg M Tele-Holic

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    Okay, let me see. Starting at the strap button:

    -Dunlop strap lock button
    -bolt (not sure of the size, I'll edit that in later), with the head cut off and tapped for the strap button screw
    -that bolt screws into the threaded octagonal piece that is cut off and welded to the metal spacer which is at the pivot point.
    -inside that spacer is a couple of these T nut (like C in the picture below)
    [​IMG]
    One is screwed to the body, the other is top, and there is a bolt threaded in between the two T nuts. Lining the inside of the spacer--and surrounding the bolt--is a piece of 1/4" pvc pipe.
    -the other arm on that pivot is a little piece of flat metal drilled for the arm and spring. It's also welded onto the spacer.
    -the arm that pulls the string hub is a brass colored rod from a toilet float kit
    -the spring is the stiffest one from a pack I bought at Advanced Auto.
    -the rectangular metal piece that is bolted to the string hub is a piece of road sign.
    -and like I said, the hub was bought from Bill Bores.

    I can get a little more specific on sizes and such later if anyone wants. I just can't remember what size or even what some of these things were called. I generally just went to the local hardware store or Lowe's and looked for what I thought would work.

    I routed out too much in a couple of places and drilled the string hub hole in the wrong spot too. That's why I have that big sticker back there :rolleyes:.
     
  10. jmiles

    jmiles Friend of Leo's

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    Nice job! One question though; The little yellow bumper stop thingy. I'm familiar with those, and they're kinda squishy. Wouldn't something like a nylon acorn nut be a more positive stop?
     
  11. Greg M

    Greg M Tele-Holic

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    Yes it would. That yellow thingy didn't last too long after playing it, but we're looking at early pics here.

    And thanks for the idea on the nylon nut! That's a lot better than what I'm using now (nothing).:D
     
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