Andre's CNC

Discussion in 'The DIY Tool Shed' started by BluesBlooded, May 13, 2015.

  1. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Hi Dave, it's a nice learning project. Still learning after 3 years.

    the size was decided when I had my smaller 10x14 shop. I had no room to put it so it had to be small enough to fit but yet able to do guitars. Now that I have a bigger shop, I wished it was larger.
     
  2. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Added another T-Slot track. No more scar:)

    IMAG0419.jpg
     
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  3. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    Looks good and rigid Andre!
    Where did you purchase those t-slot tracks?
     
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  4. chemobrain

    chemobrain Friend of Leo's

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    I'm impressed hand down, do you work for NASA or so thing?
    I just love coming to this site and seeing everyone is getting up to.
     
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  5. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks Nick, bought them on Amazon. Cant' wait to see progress on yours.

    Thanks CB, without the internet, I'd do nothing. So many people sharing how they do things, tons to learn.
     
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  6. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    One thing that always bothered me in my CNC is the collets at each end of the lead screws. There role is to prevent movements in any directions.

    IMAG0652.jpg

    The thing is that it's metal on metal. If I want to prevent movement in any directions, they need to be snug against the end But too tight and the CNC won't move. I got into the habit of leaving about .002 between the plate and the collet. This gives a little play.

    They also make an awful noise. I added grease, but that keeps the noise down for only so long. In a middle of a job, I don't feel like pausing, greasing, reinstalling the collets, but not to tight. Well a royal pita.

    I started to look at how others were dealing with this. There is obviously something missing in my design.

    I stumble upon this image from cncrouterparts.com

    Acme_Screw_Bearing_Block_unassembled_P1140758_800.jpg

    Never even know that kind of bearing existed.

    I purchase 8 kits of these and installed them between each collet and the frame.

    IMAG0653.jpg

    IMAG0654.jpg


    Will see how they perform, but I'm confident that my axes are now as perfect as they can be with no play at all.
     
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  7. GunsOfBrixton

    GunsOfBrixton Tele-Afflicted

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    Thrust bearings! I never noticed those were missing on your machine. Those are what mine uses. It should make a difference.
     
  8. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks Robert, glad to see your's using them. Just did a cut of inlays. and it worked well so far.
     
  9. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  10. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Marty, I think I would have the same problem with the flange bearing, unless the flange moves. Otherwise it's the same as the bearing I use but with one side larger.
     
  11. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    The flange mounts to the end part and the shaft sits inside the bearing with the shaft and the bearing moving inside the flange. There wouldn't be metal to metal needing greasing this way, assuming the bearings are pre lubed. It looks to me like your shaft collar is attached to the screw which is rubbing against the aluminum...even with the new parts you are adding. The flanged bearing replaces that black round thing in the aluminum plate...assuming it's not a bearing...( hard to see). If it is a bearing and not a bushing...well I get what that radial thing is for then. :).
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2018
  12. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Marty, that black thing in the aluminum is a bearing that hold the shaft coupler.
     
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  13. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Here are the latest updates on my CNC.

    In my past upgrades I installed an RS485 USB adapter that was supposed to control the spindle. It worked about three times.

    I replaced it with a 12v relay that is controlled by the gecko controller.

    IMAG0970.jpg

    This starts and stops the spindle whenever there is an M3 or M6 command in the GCODE

    Installed three wires from the GEcko G540 controller to the VFD and a few changes in mach3. Now speed is also controlled with gcode.

    Finally added this visual confirmation that the cooling pump is functioning.

    IMAG0972.jpg

    Sorry for the blurry picture. But the yellow thingy turns when coolant is flowing from the spindle

    The wire at the bottom is attached to a digital display providing the temp of the liquid

    IMAG0969.jpg

    Now I will be able to see how hot the spindle gets while running.
     
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  14. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    This sounds pretty sophisticated.
     
  15. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    Marty, I like the added functionalities. Not too complicated either because I followed this video which, fortunately for me, he uses the exact same hardware I use.



    I think all the upgrades I made recently improved my CNC a lot. Quite happy as it is. Wished it was a bit wider, but that's that.
     
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  16. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    What exactly would need to be replaced to make it wider?
     
  17. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

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    I've thought of that often thinking it would not be that big of a deal

    Two steel square tube
    Base, comprised of an MDF torsion box plus 3 layers of MDF one full and two layers for the T-Track slots
    6in C shaped Aluminum Beam
    2 Supported rails
    1 Acme screw

    The worst, is taking everything apart.
     
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