Andre's CNC

Discussion in 'The DIY Tool Shed' started by BluesBlooded, May 13, 2015.

  1. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,591
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Location:
    Sherbrooke, Qc, Canada
    After around 6 coats of lacquer. It's coming along well although I have an unknown (to me) situation in the cutaway. It looks like there is some cracking.

    Do you have an idea what may cause this?

    I'm using Target Coating Sanding sealer EM 1000 and EM7000 water base lacquer. The cracking effect only appeared when I applied the lacquer. I sanded it down twice and resealed and resprayed with the same result. Only place where I see this. Everywhere else is good.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I've changed the quantity of liquid to try different things. Does not matter at all.

    Is this some kind of orange peel that will flatten up when I sand it?

    Advice are welcome.
     
  2. s_tones

    s_tones Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    958
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    Location:
    central CA
    No exprience with those agents Andre. But it sure looks great.

    I assume that your burst was done with a darker dye? Very nice.
     
  3. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    7,460
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2011
    Location:
    Oklamerica
    See, that's what my infamous blue tele SHOULD have looked like :). Great job, Andre!
     
  4. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,591
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Location:
    Sherbrooke, Qc, Canada
    Thanks Steve, Yes I did three different dye recipe. I used SM dye. One batch with only blue, another with only black and a third with black added in the blue.

    I applied with a rag making sure to blend the edges together. Furthermore, when I sanded through, I used an airbrush with a blend of sanding sealer with blue and black dye that I sprayed the burst with refining it.

    Thanks Roger, I won't say anything in case I jinx something.
     
  5. mojz

    mojz Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    100
    Joined:
    May 20, 2016
    Location:
    cynon
    im no expert but that doesnt look like orange peel more like its reacting to whatever is underneath it almost like a vreeble
     
  6. s_tones

    s_tones Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    958
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    Location:
    central CA
    came out great. I need to try that.

    steve
     
    BluesBlooded likes this.
  7. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,591
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Location:
    Sherbrooke, Qc, Canada
    It does look like vreeble (I had to check the meaning of it). I'm pushing forward. I'll see when I sand if it disapears or not.
     
  8. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,591
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Location:
    Sherbrooke, Qc, Canada
    About 10 coats later, the vreeble disappeared.

    I did spray wetter coats at the end and they seem to have burned in pretty well.

    [​IMG]

    I must say that this is by far my best spraying in my short sprayer history.

    This is far from a "James Right To The Buffer Finish" (expertise I'm aiming for) but, I think it should wet sand pretty well into a nice flat finish that will shine a lot. :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,960
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2010
    Location:
    HELLAS, Land Of Heroes .
    That blue burst is awesome, my next guitar will definitely be blue, or blue burst.:D
     
    BluesBlooded likes this.
  10. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Posts:
    15,909
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2010
    Location:
    Loganville, Ga.
    Ooooooo . . Very lovely, Andre. That'll flatten and buff out beautifully!

    BTW, isn't a Vreeble a Dr, Seuss character? :cool:
     
    BluesBlooded likes this.
  11. s_tones

    s_tones Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    958
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    Location:
    central CA
    Very nice!
     
    BluesBlooded likes this.
  12. Guitar novice

    Guitar novice Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,070
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    Perth
    Hi Andre

    I'm going to try the cnc for the next guitar. What would your top 6 bits (not just guitar and what purpose)

    Ive got a few simple 3/4 inch plywood projects planned to sharpen up my cnc process. what bit would you use for this?

    Cheers

    Matthew
     
  13. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,591
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Location:
    Sherbrooke, Qc, Canada
    Hi Matthew

    In order, the one I use the most

    1. 1/2in spiral downcut 2in cutting lenght (Whiteside RD5200). I use this one for roughing and profiling cuts
    2. 1/2 Ball nose (Freud 18-116). I use this one for planar cuts 3D like carve tops
    3. 1/8 spiral end mill. I use this one for roughing and profiling smaller projects
    4. 0.8mm end mill (Drillman1 on ebay) I use this one for fine details profiling like fret slots. I only scribe the frets location with this bit then use my SM .023 fret saw to cut to depth. I love these bits. They are tinny and look fragile but are not.
    5. 1/4 spiral downcut 1 in cutting lenght (Whiteside RD2100) (I actually have the upcut, but will buy only downcuts in the future)
    6. 1/4 ball nose freud 18-104
    I also have several size router bits that I use from time time, but I could do without with the 6 above. I know Herb use the precision bits taper bits and he loves them. They're pricey. Herb could chime in on their value and use case
     
  14. Guitar novice

    Guitar novice Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,070
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    Perth
    Brilliant thanks for that.

    Time to get organised.

    Matthew
     
  15. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    8,897
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2009
    Location:
    Long Island NY

    Yes , I use the tapered ball nose bits from Precise Bits , for deep detail work and for detailed 3D carves they are great , a big advantage with them is they are stronger than a straight sided ball nose so you can run them a lot faster (ipm) , they are pricey but I've yet to see a tapered ball nose of any brand that isn't pricey. I don't use them much for guitar related work , mostly for relief carves .
     
  16. s_tones

    s_tones Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    958
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    Location:
    central CA
    Similar here. I use 3/8" whiteside dc and 3/8" ball (3" for getting down deep into neck pocket)

    0.023" for fret slots and also for inlay pockets and mop cuts

    Then 1/4" ball and square for pu pockets and stuff

    I use 1/2" ball when i can also but its too big for some of my contours

    Have fun. Its a gas!
     
  17. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,591
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Location:
    Sherbrooke, Qc, Canada
    Remember I had problems way back. My gantry was racking. That is why I moved the CNC in the first place to its new location so I could go behind and look at the problem. The thing is, it did not rack anymore. So I have not checked it.

    Last week I had to run a simple file on it and I could not get it to move parallel. The further side was racking. So I got behind and noticed that the lead screw was slipping in the shaft adapter.

    I could turn the screw by hand inside the shaft. The bolt tightening the shaft was broken.

    [​IMG]

    I could not remove the other either nor could I drill it and replace it with a larger one. These bolts are stainless steel.

    So instead I drilled three holes in the shaft adapter and installed set screws with red loctite.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I installed it and tighten everything. Now I will need to square the gantry again. I'll wait until I complete the spraying of the LP, I do not want to mess the shop with dust. I'll know better in a week or two.
     
    nickhofen and guitarbuilder like this.
  18. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    8,897
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2009
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    Hmmm , so that's been slipping the whole time since you had that gantry racking problem ? Wow , well at least you've found and corrected the problem , glad it didn't lead to ruined work pieces or worse .
     
  19. BluesBlooded

    BluesBlooded Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,591
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    Location:
    Sherbrooke, Qc, Canada
    I think it was borderline tight enough to keep it from slipping too much. The fall temperature is dropping now and the shop is colder, maybe that can explain why it re started to slip and rack, I don't know. At least I know what the issue is and addressed it.
     
    adirondak5 likes this.
  20. GunsOfBrixton

    GunsOfBrixton Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,621
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2011
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    I am surprised the bolt broke. Did you have loctite on them? What did the end of the screw look like?
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.


  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.