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Discussion in 'The DIY Tool Shed' started by BluesBlooded, May 13, 2015.
That's an output jack cover. To keep the mojo from leaking out when the guitar is not plugged in.
hinge for "gas cap" elect cavity cover mod!
That is cool Steve. What material will you use?
First, sorry, small thread hijack here, but it is my latest CNC project.
As you can imagine, you just stick your finger in the round hinged cap and pull off the cover (magnetic)
The CNC hinge project will be different because the components are all quite tiny - so a really test of tolerances.
I plan to break down the model's component pieces into easily cut 2D parts from plastic (black pickguard material I have around) and then glue the bits together.
It's a bit silly cuz I have been using the hinge dealy from toggle bolts very effectively. But I don't really like the look of that hinge (even though it's inside the cavity and doesn't show)
It's also slightly more jiggely than I would like.
No worries Steve, this is no hijack. This will be a cool feature. Can't wait to see it come to life. Be sure to post some pictures when you have more details
At first I thought you were modeling the Enterprise
Man, you figured out my secret plan...
aye cap'n. she can't take much more!
Nice work Steve , looks like your machine holds pretty tight tolerances
Steve, this looks quite good. How big is it?
I decided to document the Lucille build in its own thread in the Depot
Yep, parts came out fine. Still end up having to get a razor and shave off corners for the glue tabs cuz you get the inherent rounded corners according to the end mill radius (0.4mm in this case). The enlarged tab and pocket at the bottom illustrates. Annoying but easily dealt with.
This is the way it goes together. About 35 x 21mm.
Actually, the flapper capper is drawn here on the topside. It actually mounts to the backside.
I am really looking forward to Lucille Andre!
Steve, do you have pictures of the real thing in action?
I was able to spend a little bit of time in the shop this weekend. I glued the fretboard and the MOP inlays.
Tried many things to cut the inlays but they would fly away 3 out of 4 times. This is my final recipe and it worked great.
Used a 1/8in ball nose at 0.356mm deep passes for a total of 3mm depth at a speed of 500mm/minute. I also cut the fretboard inlay pocket 0.2mm wider than the inlay itself. They dropped right in perfectly with no gaps whatsoever.
As suggested by Steve, I used two layers of double side tape to account for irregularities in the surface of the MOP, applied a lot of pressure and they stayed perfectly in place.
Looks great Andre , I found when using double sided tape to clamp the piece or weigh it down for a few minutes after taping , once I started doing that I have not had a failure with it since .
Thanks Herb, I will try applying pressure with a clamp or be more patient when I weight it down. I've never held it for a few minutes, maybe 20 seconds at the most.
i also commonly get up on the table and stand on pieces to get em to adhere. better suited for the larger pieces....
heres the finished cover andre. and my "dragon head" truss cover.
That looks great! The truss rod cover is pure beauty!
thanks andre. its sort of a dragon motif. heres the rest. i am putting in gold hardware that i think will look good with the red
this is the finished hinge
That's some real pretty work Steve