I like math and all, but I love skipping it even more.
If we leave out all the differences between MkI and MkII that *don't* affect output power, what's left? The PTs, obviously. Are the OTs the same? What else?
The OTs are the same specs. Both from Musical Power Supplies. One is the vertical (in the Mk I) and one the horizontal (in the Mk II) flavor. The chokes have slightly different specs. The Mk I sports a 4H @ 50mA from Musical Power Supplies. The Mk II sports the one from Mojotone, 4.8H @ 75mA.I like math and all, but I love skipping it even more.If we leave out all the differences between MkI and MkII that *don't* affect output power, what's left? The PTs, obviously. Are the OTs the same? What else?
The OTs are the same specs. Both from Musical Power Supplies. One is the vertical (in the Mk I) and one the horizontal (in the Mk II) flavor. The chokes have slightly different specs. The Mk I sports a 4H @ 50mA from Musical Power Supplies. The Mk II sports the one from Mojotone, 4.8H @ 75mA.
All other components are of the same value, just different brands/quality. Does this help?
a question above about whether your voltmeter is doing RMS correction or not?
Luckily most $350 digital scopes will show you all of that right on the display, so you can go right to rms squared divided by the load. I've done this on the last 4 or 5 amps that have been on my bench including a 1970 Bassman (right around 45watts, just like it says on the back of the amp) my 83 JCM 800 w EL34's (a tad over 50 watts at clipping), and my 5E3 build which despite its meager wattage is not remotely "dime-able" in my apartment- BUT- I A/B'd it right next to the JCM 800 and it was half as loud to my ears.You first should convert peak to peak voltage to VRMS, then square it and divide by the load resistance.
RMS is .707 of the PEAK Voltage, not peak to peak. So half the peak to peak voltage to get peak, THEN multiply by .707 to get VRMS, square it and divide by the load.
And, if in fact Twin Reverbs were only <insert some wattage number here> it would be *extremely* well known and this thread wouldn't be the first we're hearing about itIt would then follow that every other Fender amp ever created also has the wrong wattage
More tubes of the same type do mean more power, all else being equal, but intuition fails here as certainly not any amp with four tubes will have twice the power of any amp with two.Luckily most $350 digital scopes will show you all of that right on the display, so you can go right to rms squared divided by the load. I've done this on the last 4 or 5 amps that have been on my bench including a 1970 Bassman (right around 45watts, just like it says on the back of the amp) my 83 JCM 800 w EL34's (a tad over 50 watts at clipping), and my 5E3 build which despite its meager wattage is not remotely "dime-able" in my apartment- BUT- I A/B'd it right next to the JCM 800 and it was half as loud to my ears.
Also recently the Laub amp I've been working on with 2x 7868 tubes, fixed bias, which are rated at 19 watts each. I measured it at around 22 watts.
At any rate, logic and intuition tells me any amp w 4 output tubes, whether they're 6L6s, EL34s, or 6V6s should have twice the output wattage at the speaker than something w 2 tubes. Why else would anyone build them? Or use 4 KT88's like in a Marshall Major, rated at 200 Watts.
I can attest to that, for sure. This same amp is drastically louder with the 70W Mojotone Greyhound 12" (Sensitivity: 101.3dB) vs the 60W Celestion Creamback Neo (Sensitivity: 97dB). Both of these speakers are an excellent pairing with these amps.As an aside, the speaker efficiency is a great variable in the mix. If anyone feels their amp is too loud, or not loud enough, selecting speakers with different efficiency ratings will help. Speakers are available from mid 80's decibels to 105dB.