Advice on finishing a guitar in an apartment

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matmosphere

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Just left my job and moved overseas for a few years for my wife’s job, so I’m looking for some projects to keep busy in all my spare time.

I picked up a cheap 12 string tele kit. My expectations are low, but it was less than a hundred bucks so I thought I’d gamble on it.

Only problem is I don’t have any outdoor space so no spray, and I have zero experience finish wood.

Someone suggested wood dye an linseed oil. Haven’t decided if I’ll color it yet. My wife is a little concerned because she has heard linseed oil is a little caustic and flammable.

Ultimately I want something fairly easy and foolproof. Might go for a classic blonde tele, or dye it a little green. Doesn’t have to look like it’s sparkly new out of a factory, just decent. It’ll be a good learning experience.

Any one have advice on what to use or point me in the direction of a decent tutorial.
 

EsquireOK

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A wood filler followed by sanding, then a wood dye, plus any available wipe-on clear finish would be okay in an apartment. Tru-Oil would be fairly easy, but it does take time, and it does impart a fairly heavy yellow tint to whatever you put it on. There are clear wipe-on urethanes and other varnishes at most hardware stores. They will build much more quickly and won't have the yellow tint.
 

UjwalB

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How about using dewaxed shellac? There are some very simple tutorials on YouTube and the process is to very easy to follow.
Its Labor intensive....but results are fantastic and process is also fun.
If you don't like it later, you can spray or wipe anything on it. You may apply poly, Tru oil nitro lacquer or anything on top as it forms a universal sealer. IMG_20190904_232815.jpg

Just make sure you are using dewaxed.

I just buy very small quantities of dry flakes and mix it in methylated spirit. You could also use some vodka and you guitar will thank you for it :)
 

Matthias

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The big issue with some/a lot of oil finishes is they have an exothermic reaction as they dry. The guitar bodies are much less risky than the rags you use to apply it. If you leave these scrunched up or in a heap, they can spontaneously combust. When I did an oil finish, I wet the rags through and spread them out on the patio to dry, away from anything flammable.

There are oils that are at least reasonably safe to use indoors (always read the instructions) but the rags can need care!
 

Milspec

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Apartment living requires some creativity and a few friends. I restored a Jeep Scrambler on the weekends by using the car wash a few blocks from my house. I only used the place overnight to avoid customers, but it was a bay with overhead lights that blocked the wind so a pretty nice place to work. I always kept it cleaned up and left $5 in the drop slot for the owner. It even had roll up doors that I could close in the winter months.

In your case, it sounds like a perfect time to make some friends in the neighborhood. You might be amazed how many people have garages full of really nice equipment that would love to showoff to help you build that tele. My old neighbor was a retired Ford mechanic and his garage was loaded with every possible power tool you could think of, yet he never had any projects going on. I used to ask him about something that needed fabricated, drilled, cut, sanded, etc. and he would get all excited about becoming SuperMan and saving the day. Together we built a lot of stuff....miss that old guy.

Even the flooring business that was right behind my apartment was sympathetic to my cause and left his exterior outlets on and gave me permission to plug in if I needed some power. He was a cool guy, drove a '71 Corvette with snow tires and drove it through the snow as well. He once told me that he loves to drive the Vette so why not drive it everytime regardless of weather.

My point being that you likely have a huge resource in your neighborhood (heck, you might have a Leo Fender living down the street), you just have to start talking to people and find what is out there.
 

rodeoclown

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I was up against the same problem a few weeks ago, if it's just clear coating over a stain with a Watco type satin lacquer in a spray can, I would not hesitate to hang the body in the bathroom and turn the fan on, just hang it near the fan, if it's satin finish you can take your time and do it over a couple hours, do the neck the next day,
 

matmosphere

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How about using dewaxed shellac? There are some very simple tutorials on YouTube and the process is to very easy to follow.
Its Labor intensive....but results are fantastic and process is also fun.
If you don't like it later, you can spray or wipe anything on it. You may apply poly, Tru oil nitro lacquer or anything on top as it forms a universal sealer.View attachment 636746

Just make sure you are using dewaxed.

I just buy very small quantities of dry flakes and mix it in methylated spirit. You could also use some vodka and you guitar will thank you for it :)

Interesting thought. I just moved to Ukraine and don’t speak the language so I’m functionally illiterate, which is fun. But vodka seems to be plentiful and easily identified, so perhaps I’ll have a happy guitar.

My primary concern is safety, and not having things that will not give off overwhelming odors for extended periods while drying. Time is less of a concern, I doing this because I’ve got time and need a project to tackle and it’s less expensive (and an easier sell to the wife) than a 3D printer, or something of that nature.

I’ve been doing a little research and think, colorwise I’ll do a natural finish (maybe a little butterscotch tint) and maybe a contrasting grain filler. Something subtle to bring out the grain a little. But we’ll see how it looks when I get it and go from there.

I like the feel of a smooth pretty raw neck, any suggestions on how to keep it as natural feeling as possible?
 

UjwalB

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The most dangerous thing in shellac is the vodka :)
If you use vodka....then it's probably the safest of all finishes.

Shellac is the least toxic of all options and nearly no drying time and fumes are no dangerous than having a glass of drink.

This is the reason i am using it.

I have few cans of nitro....basically lying around waiting for a safe spraying space...but while I don't have that, I am very happy with shellac.

Wood can be stained and shellac can also be stained (alcohol soluble dyes).

For necks, I think Tru oil is easy.
But you need to store the rags carefully. Please read more about it in the forum.

Cheers!
 

Jim_in_PA

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The alcohol flashing off from shellac should still be ventilated as much as possible...it can get pretty intense in a closed space and that's just not a good thing. It may also be detected by neighbors. ;) And in a small space, using a respirator is also still a good idea with shellac.
 

Freeman Keller

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I'm not a huge fan of TruOil and don't personally use it, but this might be the perfect application. TruOil is a gun stock finish that is basically tung oil that has been heated to get it to dry harder. You apply many (20 or so) very thin coats by hand, let it cure for a relatively long time (30 or more days), can buff it to a moderate gloss and can repair it if ever needed. It is a really popular finish for necks - has a nice feel that lots of people like. It does have a very slight amber cast.

I have done two guitars with it and like I said, have chosen to go back to lacquer, which is obviously not an option for you. Here is one of the pine bodied barn casters with TruOil - I think it suits the style of the guitar

It is a much harder finish than French polish shellac and maybe a little less work.

IMG_4019.JPG
 

jvin248

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Shellac is easy and quickly teases you into French Polish techniques.
It's basically bug exoskeletons dissolved in alcohol. That's pretty strong mojo ;)

I've been using shellac lately on refinishing tasks and guitars. You basically put a thin coat on and in ten minutes you can put another coat on. If you have a few guitar bodies to do at the same time by the time you get done with the last one you can start in again on the first one. Car wax after drying a day or two of the final coat to seal it.



.
 

Rigel7

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Me, I just newspaper'd my tub and shower and sprayed in there. I did a couple necks that way. Never attempted a body.
 

Freeman Keller

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Me, I just newspaper'd my tub and shower and sprayed in there. I did a couple necks that way. Never attempted a body.

Obviously you can go outside to a parking lot or a balcony or patio and shoot lacquer from rattle cans. It drys pretty fast and could be hung up outside if protected.
 

Rigel7

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Spraying in bathroom is that a good idea health-wise?
Especially if you live in an apartment and don't have a spare bathroom.

Wouldn't the fumes linger around for days which I believe is pretty toxic.

I didn't say it was "smart" or "intelligent" or "known to contribute positively to your overall health". I just said I did it. :p

In my case, I was in a ground level attached suite, and the bathroom had a large window I could open and then close the door. I was also using rattle cans rather than spray guns and compressors and whatnot.

Mind you, I was also single ... come to think of it, maybe that's why....
 

Rigel7

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Obviously you can go outside to a parking lot or a balcony or patio and shoot lacquer from rattle cans. It drys pretty fast and could be hung up outside if protected.

Landlord would have noticed if I did it in the driveway. And outside I'm always fighting a breeze or the wind. I have a garage now anyway.
 

Ricky D.

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If you spray indoors, ventilation is extremely important. Also, overspray can be a big problem. Airborne particles will deposit on every conceivable surface, and cleaning that up is no fun at all. Wipe on poly is a great solution to both of these, still. need to ventilate.
 

rodeoclown

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Spraying in bathroom is that a good idea health-wise?
Especially if you live in an apartment and don't have a spare bathroom.

Wouldn't the fumes linger around for days which I believe is pretty toxic.
Yes, if you stand in your bathroom and spray your guitar body without an exhaust fan or the fan turned on, your likely to feel the effects, it's also dangerous. With the fan on, what little over spray there is will go up and out the venting, after 20 minutes or so, you move it to a larger room, open a window.
 

Dismalhead

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I've been going through an ugly divorce. For most of last year I lived in a one-bedroom apartment. I did a tung oil finish on the guitar I was working on at the time, and it came out quite stunning. You need to do quite a few coats, and then need a lot of time for it to cure. As I remember mine took about 2 months until it finally didn't feel sticky to the touch. If you've got the patience though, the results are well worth it.
 
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