Add groove to DIY Fret Press Caul?

[bcruise]

Based on many of the threads here, I decided to make a fret press caul to use with my drill press. Special thanks to Davmac, and his link at: http://damacleod.wordpress.com/2011/08/21/making-a-radiused-sanding-block-and-a-fret-press-caul/.


I started by making a 9.5 inch radius block from left over maple scraps:



Then with a few other pieces, including a piece of brass:



I made this:






Question is, should I try to run a groove across the brass face to help align the press with the frets I intend to use? (There is room for a .10 inch groove between the brass screws.) If so, how should it be done?

The fret slot cutting and the fret installation process for my first build is soon to be upon me….and I'm hoping this jig will help make the job go smoothly.

Thanks for all advise!

 

[gtrdoc59]

I would make a tool that straddles the outside edges with a hole in the middle, grind a round end on a small screw driver or scrap of steel and scrape a groove in it.

 

[Jack Wells]

Just a suggestion .......... you can buy the individual brass fret press inserts for $4.45 each. You could modify your caul to hold them.

(link removed)

......image removed

The StewMac caul has a pivot so that pressure is applied evenly across the fret. It may or may not be necessary.

......

 

[guitarbuilder]

Use a saw and make a sawcut down the middle. You could always fill the gap up on the ends with epoxy. If I were making one, I'd make the caul in two pieces, put a little chamfer on the curve on both parts, then glue it together.

 

[davmac]

Thanks for the name check! On my caul I left it flat and it worked perfectly. I did use MDF for my caul though and it naturally deformed around the fret top as I pressed them in. The only advantage that a groove in the caul would offer would be to apply the pressure across the whole width of the fret - assuming it matched the shape of the fret top. I'm not sure that the pressure needed to seat the fret warrants this additional step - I could be wrong though.

I do think Jack's point about the pivot is worth bearing in mind. On mine I made sure that it was able to pivot - only slightly, but that's all that's needed.

 

[guitarbuilder]

In my experience I've found that I feel more confident when the shoe is pressing on the fret, if it is lined up with the groove. I've caught myself quite a few times when it pivots at an angle to the fret. I stop and re-align it. I think it would be worth the effort myself.

 

[Engraver-60]

This thread has given me an idea - rare as they are. I have a compound from GRS (Engraving supplies company out of Emporia, KS) called Thermo-Loc ((link removed)) and it can be softened in a microwave then molded to the surface of an object to be held. I've used it to make a mold to shape sterling silver to match the top of a HD fuel cap. The stuff is tough and resilient after it cools. I may have to make my own caul block with this and document it.

 

[robt57]

This thread has given me an idea - rare as they are.

There you go, thinking again...

 

[Jack Wells]

Seems like a lot of trouble when you can buy the inserts for just a little. Let say you buy the 7.25, 9.5 and 12. You're out $13.50. You make a caul out of hard maple, cut a slot to hold the insert.

 

[Engraver-60]

It's tough when you get as old as I am, but hey, even an old dog can teach his master a new trick!!

I will start a thread about how I do use this stuff when I get that far along on my builds. The Thermo-Loc is great plastic and is easy to mold to a shape, and it is TOUGH after it cures. I used it as a dapping die to cold form 18 gauge sterling sheet to form a dome of matching contour to the Harley-Davidson's stainless steel fuel cap.

robt57 - go ride that cycle, dude, and find a decent old brown amp for me.

 

[Engraver-60]

Seems like a lot of trouble when you can buy the inserts for just a little. Let say you buy the 7.25, 9.5 and 12. You're out $13.50. You make a caul out of hard maple, cut a slot to hold the insert.

You're probably right, but I am basically poor to broke most of the time, so necessity is the mother of strange bedfellows. (Or something like that.)

 

[davmac]

Seems like a lot of trouble when you can buy the inserts for just a little. Let say you buy the 7.25, 9.5 and 12. You're out $13.50. You make a caul out of hard maple, cut a slot to hold the insert.

True enough Jack, but that's missing the sheer joy of making it yourself.

 

[robt57]

robt57 - go ride that cycle, dude, and find a decent old brown amp for me.

added 20 mile to my commute yerterday, so day off today, may go for a hike for an hours later. Nice woods with trails 1/4 mile form the house is a trail head.


As far as amp procurement, I confess to total stinginess in keeping what I procure. So go get your own.

 

[bcruise]

Use a saw and make a sawcut down the middle. You could always fill the gap up on the ends with epoxy. If I were making one, I'd make the caul in two pieces, put a little chamfer on the curve on both parts, then glue it together.

I like this!....

since I'll probably do a few models for the fun of it, I'll definitely give this a try.

 

[bcruise]

In my experience I've found that I feel more confident when the shoe is pressing on the fret, if it is lined up with the groove. I've caught myself quite a few times when it pivots at an angle to the fret. I stop and re-align it. I think it would be worth the effort myself.

Does this mean that you think a bit of a pivot is a good idea, or unnecessary?

 

[bcruise]

Seems like a lot of trouble when you can buy the inserts for just a little. Let say you buy the 7.25, 9.5 and 12. You're out $13.50. You make a caul out of hard maple, cut a slot to hold the insert.

...and I think I'll take your advise also, for another "flavor" ...but in a way, it's just too easy!

Do you believe the pivot is advisable?

Thanks again for the guidance!

 

[Nick JD]

I think the pivot is pivotal in a caul!

 

[guitarbuilder]

Yes the pivot distributes the pressure pretty evenly. IF you use the curved cork lined caul to hold the neck in place while pressing, the neck isn't always perpendicular to the line of pressure. The pivot helps compensate for that.

I sprung for the official stewmac arbor press too and the allen nut occasional will loosen up causing the caul to spin slightly left to right...that was the pivot I was initially referring to.

 

[Jack Wells]

I think the pivot is pivotal in a caul!

Yes ....... when pressing in frets you need to proceed with caultion.

Anybody can become an expert on the internet.

Yes and you can even become a doctor.

 

[guitarbuilder]

Dr Wells, You are wanted in the OR.