Accutronics 4AB3C1B Reverb tank wiring?
- Thread starter Neener
- Start date
Jon Snell
Tele-Afflicted
I would just "pot" them. once re-attached properly, goop the wires to the board. and yes... it's missing the connector on that end and has been modified
EDIT: a check of pix on the net shows that some do not have a connector on that end. there is also pix of those wires broken on others. I think I have one new in the box in my shop... I'll check & report
EDIT: a check of pix on the net shows that some do not have a connector on that end. there is also pix of those wires broken on others. I think I have one new in the box in my shop... I'll check & report
Last edited:
Interesting, thanks for checking that. I just soldered the wires to those tips. Working fine.
I’m pretty sure this tank isn’t original. Looks too modern to me. But It is in fact Accutronics made in USA.
Those pinch connectors are the primary reason why these things fail. Same idea as an aftermarket trailer light harness from the Pep Boys: the connectors damage the wire and it causes the conductor to break. I've used speaker tinsel to make permanent repairs to these tanks and it does not fail.
If you choose to go the tinsel route, place a clip-on heat sink on the tinsel to prevent the molten solder from running up the braid when you make the connection.
If you choose to go the tinsel route, place a clip-on heat sink on the tinsel to prevent the molten solder from running up the braid when you make the connection.
I'm in the same boat here in 2/2023.
Just wanted to post a pic and see if what I did was okay for a fix? Kinda worried about leaving too much bare wire soldered to the pins being it's kinda thick.
I used soldering braid(all I had) and some heat shrink over it.
Is heat shrink necessary?
I'm not a tech so if anyone can tell me if this repair is okay, I'd greatly appreciate it.
I spent the time reconnecting the wires to the original connector but ended up bending/breaking the tip on the one so I did a search and viola found this post. Lol. Very helpful.
Just wanted to post a pic and see if what I did was okay for a fix? Kinda worried about leaving too much bare wire soldered to the pins being it's kinda thick.
I used soldering braid(all I had) and some heat shrink over it.
Is heat shrink necessary?
I'm not a tech so if anyone can tell me if this repair is okay, I'd greatly appreciate it.
I spent the time reconnecting the wires to the original connector but ended up bending/breaking the tip on the one so I did a search and viola found this post. Lol. Very helpful.
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Where are the springs for that tank? Did you replace the entire inductor structure?
As for the repair, a lighter gauge wire would be preferable. Or….you could have unbraided that solder braid and used just a few strands for the wire. Or…looking at the pics, I don’t see why the original wire could not be used. There seems to ample length there.
The springs are in each corner of the tank. Nothing else was touched on the unit except for the broken green and black wires and removal of the connector.
I was just following the advice mentioned above to remove the connector as it only breaks the wires.
I kinda figured the wires are too thick but wanted to check what others had to say about it.
I might just try to solder the green and black wires to it instead. That or might try cutting the braided wire in half?
I was just following the advice mentioned above to remove the connector as it only breaks the wires.
I kinda figured the wires are too thick but wanted to check what others had to say about it.
I might just try to solder the green and black wires to it instead. That or might try cutting the braided wire in half?
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