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A Semi-Hollow Thing

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by DavidV, Sep 26, 2020.

  1. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    Just looked up that video, that's an awesome idea and makes for a really clean install. I'm definitely going to go that route on the next one I make.
     
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  2. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    Shaping the headstock today so I don't have to deal with that giant block on the end anymore. Had to go the old fashioned route since it's angled.

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    More swoop-de-doops to match the body.

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    I want to do some vertical binding on the sharp corners. It's easier if I do them first then route the rest of the binding into it. I got this attachment for my dremel from Grizzly, hate it for regular binding but it comes in handy for odd shapes and curved tops. You absolutely can not route an inside curve with this tool though.

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    Making some glue out of straight acetone and bits of binding, More gets added to the jar every time I make a guitar.

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    I dab the glue into the routed portion so it soaks in to the wood and some on the binding itself. Then just tape it tightly.

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    Laying out the fret slots in a piece of Indian Rosewood. Gibson scale.

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    And finally cutting the slots. I really need to get a jig for this.
     
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  3. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    Routing the binding for the sides. This binding has me wondering what I'm going to paint it, I'm thinking a cool mint green, or maybe butterscotch blonde....vanilla? You get the theme.

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    Make sure you don't get any of the glue between the outside of the binding and the tape, It will eat the binding.

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    Now time to round the fretboard.

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    I still need to iron out the kinks with this jig. It didn't leave a very smooth surface. And in hindsight I would have rounded first and cut fret slots after.

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  4. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    You may want to consider my jig in the "let's make a neck thread". It is simple and accurate. Here's a link to this guy's version:

    http://www.blackwaterriverguitars.com/Tools - Fretboard Radius Jig.html
     
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  5. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    I needed to make a template for the strat pickups. I think I'm just going to screw them straight into the body with some foam, If not I guess I could buy some pickup rings though.

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    Wasn't originally planning on it but decided to bind the headstock and fretboard as well.

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    Not to brag but I think it's looking pretty sharp. If anyone has any finish ideas let me know, I'm going to be ordering paint soon. This is what I use: https://artprimo.com/catalog/belton-molotow-premium-c-26_35.html
     
  6. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    When I get to where you are in post 20 or so is usually when another project or idea steals my attention and my time . . .lol . . . looks awesome so far!
     
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  7. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    I start more projects than I finish as well. Trying to go slow and methodical on this to cut down on mistakes... Work is a little slow right now so I may sell this guy for some supplemental income.
     
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  8. lammie200

    lammie200 Friend of Leo's

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    I like your f-hole design! Refreshingly different.
     
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  9. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    Dry clamping the fretboard to the neck so I can drill some indexing holes. I use a 1/16" bit and go right into a fret slot, then a shaved down toothpick for alignment.

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    clamping after installing the trussrod and gluing.

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    After everything dried I trimmed down the fretboard with a drawknife and the fine side of a farrier's rasp. There was no safe way to route it and this was pretty quick. I wouldn't touch a drawknife to something like ebony or wenge though, it could catch grain too easily and split out.

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    I did route the binding channel with the tabletop router, the part hanging off the heel was done freehand with a file.

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    Now I'm drawing a pattern for the electronics cavity cover. I have a flashlight shining through the F-hole and I'm just tracing the pattern onto printing paper.

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    I put packing tape across the template onto a pickguard blank. Bandsaw to withing an 1/8" of the template and a belt/disk sander to the final shape. You'll know when to stop sanding when the paper releases from the pickguard, the packing tape is sanded off.

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  10. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    Started off winding pickups today. Because the bridge pickup is experimental I'm not sure how many turns I want on the middle and neck. I just did 7600 on the neck in 42 AWG magnet wire, Lower wind strat pickups sound good in that position. Recently got a roll of 43 AWG so I put that on the middle with 8500, basically a tele neck pickup.

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    Rough cutting the neck heel on the bandsaw.

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    Refining shape with a half round rasp

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    Rasping to the total thickness, I think I marked .800" but it actually came out closer to .900". I do fine adjustment at the last stage for this reason.

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    Eyeball a center line

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    Eyeball the other layout lines.

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    Start removing the facets

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    Switching to finer files and smoothing out the flats and ridges.

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    Round nose scraper to really get a round and uniform neck profile.

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    Now I'm actually measuring the thickness and it varies a lot. I file and check with a micrometer to get around .850" at the 12th fret and .800" at the nut. Actually I'm a little thicker than that but sanding should take off a bit.

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    It's coming together
     
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  11. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    Ready to sand out the router marks on the fretboard with a radius beam, There's a stubborn spot in the middle that took ages to sand out.

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    Installing fret markers. Using 4mm pearl dots for the top, personally I like them pretty simple. Just drill a 5/32" hole and drop them in with a dab of superglue. For the white plastic side dots I just dip the plastic sticks in acetone for 5 seconds and push them into the predrilled holes. It makes it's own glue and fills out nicely.

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    And I thought I was going to fret the neck today but realized I need a better way to cut fret tangs so I went ahead and ordered some more nice japanese luthier tools. So the build is on hold for a little while as I wait for supplies, seems like I do this every time I make a guitar.
     
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  12. SomeGuyNamedRob

    SomeGuyNamedRob Tele-Meister

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    This looks awesome. Love the f-hole design. Love the headstock shape. That bridge is the single most punk rock thing ever. In a semi-hollow kind of way.
     
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  13. nnieman

    nnieman Tele-Meister

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    It’s looking fantastic!!

    Nathan
     
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  14. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    Thanks so much for the kind comments you guys!
     
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  15. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    Love it!
     
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  16. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    With nothing to do I tend to stand around the shop and drink coffee... then I start messing with stuff. Decided to overhaul the bridge for a couple of reasons.

    1. Too many screws, especially cheap ones make it look too homemade.

    2. The steel baseplate is going to rust and it's difficult to finish.

    Originally I avoided aluminum because the height adjustment screws would dig into it and leave scratches. I think I've fixed this by gluing small rosewood feet to the screws.

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    Found the largest angled aluminum I could and drilled holes for the strings and intonation screws. String spacing is 52mm because that's roughly the width of the neck at the 12th fret.

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    Using ebony instead of rosewood this time.

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    Sanded the block of wood square, transferred holes from aluminum, and cut brass pins.

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    Rosewood feet

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    Finished. All of it is brass, aluminum, or stainless so it should last a while.

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  17. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    While waiting for paint to get here I went ahead and shielded the controls. I'll just paint over it, should be fine. Just can't forget to solder the jumper before I do it.

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    Don't go off of me for finishing advice because I'm not very consistent, but this is what I've done so far:

    Sanded with 120, 150, 220

    I used sanding sealer after the 220 sanding just because poplar/aspen are such fuzzy woods and don't sand as fine as other hardwoods. So it went 220, SS which raised the grain, 220, SS, 320.

    Rubbed on shellac, level sanded, more shellac, then sanded to 320. The shellac is just a cheap and quick drying finish to sand and a good primer for the lacquer.

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    And speaking of lacquer, how does orange sherbet sound?

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    Every guitar I've done in the past few years has been with the Belton premium on the right. Low pressure and seems to last a while. Just tried the black and blue caps and am very impressed also. I believe this is a nitro-alkyl (or is it alkyd?) lacquer. I'm not going to pretend I know what that means other than it isn't actual nitrocellulose... but it also isn't acryllic lacquer which I definitely don't like dealing with. To me and seems to act just like any other nitro but slightly less smelly.

    The montana black is a first, I just bought it to try out. Seems to be a little more potent but I didn't like the color as much as the belton.
     
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  18. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    The orange is really wonderful and should look great on that design!
     
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  19. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    And just in time for Halloween!

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    Scraped the binding with a single edge razor so it will be ready for spraying the clear.

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    My tools arrived as well so I got back to working on the neck. Needed this fret slot cleaning saw to deepen a few of the slots right up against the binding. It worked great but definitely a task that can lead to hand cramping.

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    And the other purchase that really hurt the wallet. Some Hosco fret tang nippers which seemed necessary and I didn't want to waste any money on cheap ones that don't work. These are the jumbo size but I think I can use them for smaller fret wire just fine.

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    Don't do what I do and get metal shavings all over your temporary sanding station.

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    Leveled the frets with the flat side of my sanding beam. They were honestly pretty close just from hammering them in aside from one low fret. now time fore crowning and dressing.

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    It's easy to get too carried away here. this time I took it slow and just knocked the sharp corners off.

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  20. DavidV

    DavidV Tele-Meister

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    Using Watco gloss lacquer from a rattlecan. Not my favorite but I can get it locally. Deft used to be really great.

    I spray 3 times a day with an hour between coats. Will probably get about 2 cans on the body and one on the neck. Then let it cure for a few weeks for wet sanding and buffing.

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    Shot a little bit of Belton transparent hazelnut lacquer on the neck just to tint it, then switched to clear to finish the same as the body.

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    Oh and there's a waterslide decal underneath it all. I don't have a business or anything, just something to give my home builds a little bit more legitimacy.
     
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