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Discussion in 'Other Guitars, other instruments' started by Paul in Colorado, Jul 15, 2019.
Camping fuel is naptha. You can still get that.
Good point, it's a naphtha. Though, I'm not sure it's still available - just don't know. I was surprised when HD didn't have my VM&P naphtha.
I do wonder about the purity, though, of white camping gas compared to VM&P. I think there are a bunch of grades of the product, which all go by 'naphtha'. I don't really know much about it, but I'm skeptical that one would be identical to the other, and only one is banned...
Naphtha was the first "drycleaning" fluid, if I remember correctly.
I have naptha, I have scrubbies, I have guitar honey to treat the fingerboard, I think I'm set. Thanks!
Naptha to clean the fretboard, Lemon Oil or Dunlap 65 to condition it.
Dunlop 65 Ultimate Lemon oil, for cleaning AND protecting.
Murphys oil soap if it's really dirty, damp rag if it's not too bad. Lizard spit on the rosewood boards, very lightly.
Razor for any real thick gunk then naptha with a cloth.
Although last couple times I did this I used cleaning vinegar instead of naptha. Worked fine.
So, salad dressing.
I use WD40 and a rag if really grungy. It's just light oil/solvent. It loosens up the gunk and wipes clean. You could use Naptha or paint thinner. Ditto.
For general cleaning I use the Lemon Pledge everywhere.
You might want to rethink Lemon Pledge as I believe it's silicon based which will cause serious problems if the guitar ever needs finish work.
Agree with the naptha or Murphys oil soap as a cleaner followed by lemon oil for appearance. Although lemon oil with a rag will remove the grunge too. I'll also add that 3 in 1 oil can be used. By report, it has been used at Martin for years. To my knowledge, like lemon oil, 3 in 1 is mostly mineral oil.
I use Planet Waves 'Hydrate' cleans and conditions fret board ~ great product.
Yeah, people keep saying that. I've been using it 40 years. There may be just a touch of silicone in it, doesn't feel like it though. What I like is it wipes clean, leaves no apparent residue you can feel, takes off greasy hand stuff etc. I suppose if I were to refinish a guitar that allowed it to soak into the wood (bare wood guitar) maybe that could be an issue. But any finished guitar is going to be sanded anyway. But I don't refinish guitars and certainly not one with any value!
Thanks for the heads up though.
I'm sure you know your own mind, what you're comfortable with, etc.
I'll just gently point out that one area you might have trouble is if / when your beloved Martin needs a neck reset. This typically involves a bit of finish repair / overspray as well.
"Lemon oil" is pretty much just scented mineral oil. Real lemon oil is a powerful solvent/degreaser, and at full strength could break down the glue that holds your fretboard to the neck. As stated already, avoid anything with silicone in it. Not worth the risk of making future repairs more difficult.
The stuff that's sold for use on instruments is OK. Mineral oil is cheaper and just as good. Good old WD-40 is actually fine.
You probably don't really even need to oil your fretboard, but if you want to, just use a drop or two on your rag.
WD40 and a terry cloth rag.
Good to go.
All these oil comments...
One reason I like naphtha for fingerboards is that in addition to being an actual solvent (it dissolves most gunk), it leaches oils from the wood. Follow up with some mineral oil to undo the drying-out of the solvent.
Oil is not a very good cleaning agent. It doesn't dissolve anything - it just makes it easier to push around. Further, too much oil will swell and weaken the end grain in fret slots, causing frets to unseat. Especially if the oil is left to soak in.
There is silicone in Pledge. That's the protectant. Dimethicone, too, which is a synthetic silicone, Also, naphtha, and another solvent, isoparaffin. And water. I think Roy Buchanan used Lemon Pledge on his guitars.
Lemon Juice and a old worn toothbrush. Wipe down with a wet cloth and then a dry cloth. Condition with Lemon Oil or Butcher Block Oil.