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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by nosmo, Aug 1, 2016.
Interesting strap buttons. They look similar to the ones I had on my 82 Gibson Victory MVX
Beautiful work. I'm extremely jealous of both your skill as a builder and the fact that you get to keep this guitar.
I was a little curious about the pickup installation though. I'm used to seeing humbuckers pickups reversed--i.e., the screw poles facing the opposite directions on the bridge and neck pickups. Was this an aesthetic choice, or do you find that you prefer the tone this way?
And sorry if this was addressed elsewhere and I missed it.
I saw it, I just didn't want to bring it for fear it was a ghost that would somehow haunt me through
Well...........I guess I will from now on. Thank you very much.
They are D'Addario elliptical end pins. I thought they looked cool. And different.
Thanks. I actually built this guitar to sell (don't have a buyer), but I might just keep it.
Is it standard to mount them the other way? I really didn't even think about it. Wait......does that mean they could sound even better? This (to me) is the best sounding guitar I've ever made, but that's just my opinion. Other's may not like it at all.
You must be thinking about the Russians
No, but isn't that photo of the "low action" actually showing the string height over the headstock? The zero fret is on the other side of the nut from the gauge, it looks like, to me.
The pickups will play like they're supposed to placed that way because of the North/South orientation, just having the screw poles in different locations is all.
Usual placement is screw to the bridge for bridge pup and screw to the neck for the neck pup giving from bridge to neck(screw/south-slug/north-slug/south-screw/north). So turning both pups around gives same results in the middle both pickup selection, turning one pickup around would give the "out of phase" tone that a lot of people like. AKA Peter Green Mod.
Correct. Please see http://www.tdpri.com/threads/well-i-guess-so.672322/#post-7191864
Now I feel stupid
I really wasn't trying to make anyone feel stupid. I thought you may have found that there was some tonal difference between the two orientations or something. I have had some hybrid pickups where orientation did make a difference--one coil from two different pickups crammed together--but I wouldn't think it would make much difference in this case unless there was a significant difference in the number of turns on each coil. It obviously looks and sounds great as is. No sense fixing something that isn't broken. Unless you want to consider the whole thing broken and just send the guitar to, I don't know, whoever raised the question to begin with.
Seth Lover or one of them old Gibson guys who was there when the humbucker first came out said the screw orientation for humbucker pickups was simply because he liked the way it looked. (neck pup screws toward the neck, bridge pup screws toward the bridge.)
Oooooohh! Never mind. Only went about 10' over my head. I'd sure like to catch that sumabissh what sole my memory. Nicely done.
Don't feel stupid because it really doesn't matter. Some people want the adjustment poles towards the middle for a slightly different tone.
OK I don't feel stupid. And I didn't take any offense. I'm pretty easy most of the time. I honestly didn't even think about it when I mounted the PU's. I think they would look good either way. To late to change them now. The leads were trimmed to keep the control cavity neat.
Rick - your memory must be hanging out with mine somewhere.
But clearly you forgot where
That's another stunner nosmo.
Hey Rog, what is dirpy?
Yeah, what he said.
Nosmo, I don't recall seeing any pictures of the frets being put into the fretboard in this in this thread. I don't blame you for not including them, we've all seen them a 100 times, however, I don't think I've ever seen it addressed on a neck with a compound radius.
Do you use a fret press with a caul? If so, how do you address the gradual change in radius?
I apologize if this question has been addressed before.
They hang around with sugar gliders.
You got me with that zero fret. I finally had to look it up. ...I shun technology as long as possible.
What fret wire do you use for a zero fret? Does somebody sell "zero fret wire"? I assume it must be pretty tall so that it remains taller than any fret wire you may use for the rest of the neck.
Which leads me to...What fret wire do you use for the rest of the frets?
Here is a shout out for Roger's sloth.
Nosmo - I think you have Flash in your headstock.
That sloth face is amazing.
Mark, I axed exactly the same question and was told you use the SAME fretwire for the zero fret as the rest of 'em.
It seems to me that just can't be right, seems like you'd have to crank the bridge up so high to avoid buzzing on the 1-2-3 frets, you could never get a good low action. To that end, I bought one stick of Stew Macs tallest fret wire for use with some of their medium-high stuff, I'd have to look up the dimensions and fret wire number, I've forgotten, but at least my neck will start out with some string clearance over the first fret. I may be completely wrong, but I can always grind down the high fret, or even pull and replace it if I need to.
Hey there JazzHands. Your name threw me for a second there, until I remembered this is a guitar forum.
So anyway....the last 4 or 5 guitars I've built have had a compound radius, which some folks will say is impossible because a radius is a radius and it can't be compound, but I digress. I use a very involved and technical method to install the frets. First, I bend the fret wire on a home made bender to some random radius that is less that 12". Then I cut the wire a little longer than the spot they'll end up in. Then I beat them into the slots with a nylon hammer. If I remember, I'll put a drop of yellow glue in the slot first. The frets match the radius (whatever that may be where they are) after the beating.
Don't overthink it
I'll sell you some zero fret wire. It cost twice as much as regular fret wire, but other than that, there's no difference.
Great. Now I'll see that AND a sloth every time I pick up the guitar.
Here's my theory - When you fret a string at the 2nd fret, does the string buzz on the 3rd? If not, then why should it buzz with a zero fret?
If you had, say, 25 frets on your board and you tuned it so the big string was E at the first fret instead of the nut, other than sounding funky when played open (and intonation problems), the fretted strings should play alright. No, wait........the fret spacing would be all wrong. Bad example. OK, pretend you cut an extra slot where the nut goes, and you put a fret in there.