- Aug 17, 2022
- Austin, Texas
It wasn’t really a conscious decision to do so, rather than just following their build. If I have issues with the power maybe I’ll change it over, but I run my rig off a Furman power conditioner, so I’m hoping that cleans it up enough to make the difference negligible. I’ll report back!
Your work looks good.Just a little update:
Here's where I'm currently at. Sorry the lighting isn't great, it got dark and my lamps aren't very adequate. Have it all back together expect for V1 and V2, which I wanted to start clean using new tube sockets with. My wiring is cleaner this time around, and I triple checked all of my connections...if I've missed something this time my optometrist is up for a visit. Hoping once I get these sockets installed and wired it'll be smooth reverb-ing! View attachment 1019716 View attachment 1019717 View attachment 1019718
If I end up running into issues with it then that’s what I’ll do. At the moment I just want to get the unit working again before I start looking to mod the circuit.Your work looks good.
I would not have opted for the original, three series diodes, power supply. You could put in a well-filtered, full wave supply and ditch the choke. This reverb unit draws almost no HT current, which is why Fender was able to get by with that PS, which is really a POS-PS, in my book.
Also, you may want to consider elevating your heater supply because of the architecture of output section with the cathode of the one stage of the 7025 at 130 volts. You could also engineer in a permanent ground-lift circuit as many retrofitted to these units to quiet them down.
I think the reissue had a permanent ground lift. You may find your rewire noisier.If I end up running into issues with it then that’s what I’ll do. At the moment I just want to get the unit working again before I start looking to mod the circuit.
And yes, I’ll elevate my heater supply. I realized after my photos that I would probably get some issues with them the way they are.
A ground lift alone would be a great addition! A permanent ground lift would be great too, but if I don’t find I get any hum then I may not need to. Before I tore it apart, this reissue didn’t have any issues whatsoever with noise or anything of the like. Even when I got my unit powered up before, despite the reverb not working, my signal was nice and clean except for when the foot switch was attached.
I’ll keep y’all updated though and let you know what direction I go in!
I’m a bit confused by that though...shouldn’t it be doing that? The sleeve should be grounding so noise picked up by the shielding gets sent to ground. Unless you’re getting a ground loop somewhere, why would it need to be isolated from the chassis?Outter jack sleeve was contacting the chassis
Humm, I'll double check the unit, I built it a few years ago.I’m a bit confused by that though...shouldn’t it be doing that? The sleeve should be grounding so noise picked up by the shielding gets sent to ground. Unless you’re getting a ground loop somewhere, why would it need to be isolated from the chassis?
Ah that makes sense. I didn't realize the signal actually travelled through the foot switch itself. Makes perfect sense that the cable would be putting all that noise in the signal then without a proper shield. I'm using a repro pedal from SheehanPro tip from the 60s: Better shielded cable connecting the foot switch to the unit is key. In the 6G15 design, the actual reverb signal traverses to the footswitch and back. Basic Fender footswitches with the cheap cable don’t work so well. But, take an quality instrument cable and solder the footswitch on one end and the RCA plug on the other. That works much better.
Yes, once I figured out the issue I was kicking myself for not looking into your solution further! I was just confused because I was still under the impression the connection wasn't supposed to exist, considering my misreading the wiring diagram. But, looks like we essentially had the same problem.Glad you got it, I won't bother posting my voltages. However that connection is basically the one that I failed to do and had to install a jumper to tie those points together. After that my voltages all became reasonable.
Curious how you like the sound.