69 Pick-up Problem

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by scoobie, Jun 23, 2011.

  1. scoobie

    scoobie TDPRI Member

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    Hi,

    I've got a problem with the neck PU on my 69 tele.

    It's completely dead (as is selecting both PU's) unless I move/touch it slightly with my fingers then it will work when picking single notes, but as soon as I strum it crackles then goes dead again.

    The bridge PU works fine.

    I've checked the switch and that seems OK - I just can't get anything when the switch is in the middle or on the neck PU.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks,
     
  2. sjtalon

    sjtalon Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    re-flow the solder in the eyelets of the flatware.
     
  3. Phostenix

    Phostenix Tele-Afflicted

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    If there's no output in the middle position, it sounds like the neck pup is shorting its hot lead to ground somehow.
     
  4. sjtalon

    sjtalon Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    he can't get anything in 2 or 3
     
  5. scoobie

    scoobie TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for the replies.

    Pardon my ignorance, but what does "re-flow the solder in the eyelets of the flatware" actually mean?

    Thanks,
     
  6. Phostenix

    Phostenix Tele-Afflicted

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    Exactly. If the problem were in position 3 only, it might be a loose connection or bad joint on the either neck pup wire. If the problem is taking out the parallel connection in position 2, that tells us that the neck hot is shorting to ground. An open wire on the neck in position 2 would still leave the bridge pup working.
     
  7. Phostenix

    Phostenix Tele-Afflicted

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    Look for something shorting the neck pup hot lead to ground - including the screws holding the pickup selector switch to the control panel touching a wire or terminal of the pickup switch.
     
  8. sjtalon

    sjtalon Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    >I just can't get anything when the switch is in the middle or on the neck PU.<

    I took that to mean the NECK pup doesn't work in 2 or 3. He said the bridge works fine.
     
  9. sjtalon

    sjtalon Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    The wires of the coil are looped though tiny holes in the pickup and then the leads are soldered there as well, you could have a bad connection so re-solder the area.

    Notice the two globs of solder next to the black and white wires:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. SPUDCASTER

    SPUDCASTER Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    What Sjtalon means by re-flowing the solder on the eyelets would be. Take your soldering iron and find where the leadwires from your pickup and the wires from the winding meet on the bottom of the bobbin. Just touch those with the iron until the solder liquifies.

    If your not comfortable doing this, take it to a tech. I would also re-flow the neck pickup connections also. Check your switch to make sure everything looks proper, no bent contacts of stuff like that. I had it happen on a 4-way switch.

    Hey, I see your from Derbyshire. My Great Grandparents came to the US from there. I've been wanting to visit and see if I have any relatives still in that area. Good luck with the 69 Tele.

    Oh well, it looks like Sjtalon beat me to the post, sorry for the double info.
     
  11. Slann

    Slann TDPRI Member

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    "Cold solder joints" are joints that aren't completely soldered, but may look OK. I usually retouch anything that may be suspect. Also, some people have shielding over each pair of pup wires, and these can touch and short contacts (usually at the switch). A piece of electrical tape works well to insulate suspect areas (problems usually show up when you push the switch plate back into the guitar body). I always check the switch and pups before I screw the switch plate down.
    Good luck!
     
  12. scoobie

    scoobie TDPRI Member

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    Hi,

    Many thanks for all the replies much appreciated.

    I shall have a look over the weekend.

    I'm not sure if it's an indicator of anything, but when the guitar is plugged in and you get the background hum from the amp; if I touch the switch plate with a finger (press it down etc), then this decreases/stops.

    Spudcaster - if you ever make it to this green and pleasant land and have tele withdrawal, you are more than welcome to call in for a 'fix'.

    Thanks,
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2011
  13. sjtalon

    sjtalon Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    :D

    That's the way it is suppose to be.
     
  14. scoobie

    scoobie TDPRI Member

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    Hi,

    I checked the pup and looks as though in the past someone had altered the wiring.

    The cavity is copper tape shielded and on my pick-up both wires are actually both go through a hole in the plastic surround and are soldered on the other side.

    Also another brown wire was present that had come loose that looked as though it was originally also soldered to the same solder joint as the other wires, but then finishes in the cavity on a blob of solder on the copper shielding tape as though it was some form of earth.

    Any suggestions?

    I was going to remove the wires and solder as in the picture above and get rid of the extra wire, but which wire to which side of the pup, or should I leave as is and re-solder in the extra wire?

    Thanks,
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2011
  15. LocustPlague

    LocustPlague Tele-Holic

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    pics or it didn't happen

    These descriptions are worth a word or two but I believe the current exchange rate is somewhere around 1k/picture.
     
  16. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Make sure none of the copper shielding tape has come loose and caused a short, especially on the switch contacts when everything's closed up in there. With a Tele it's pretty easy to play with the control plate screws removed and the wires pulled out of the body. Do you have the problem then?

    And the thing with the hum going away when you touch the control plate is normal, read up on the reason for the "string ground" for more of an explanation.
     
  17. scoobie

    scoobie TDPRI Member

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    Hi,

    I've tried to attach pics below.

    Please note that the brown wire you can see in the second picture that is soldered to the copper shielding in the cavity is loose at the other end and I think it was soldered to the solder joint in the first picture where the two wires pass below and through.

    Thanks,

    Vizzcaster - I'll try it with the control plate out when it's all back together - thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 28, 2011
  18. scoobie

    scoobie TDPRI Member

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    Any help appreciated:lol:

    Now with the 'spare' brown wire disconnected and the pup out etc, I can get a response from positions 1 & 2 (2 I'm guessing is just the bridge pup), but none from 3.

    I've tried to test for continuity by attaching one probe to the end of a guitar lead plugged in to the tele, and one probe to the hot side of the pup - however, it beeps when I select every position - 1, 2 & 3.

    Any ideas?

    Is there a step by step method of using a multimeter - which probe connects to what?

    Thanks,

    Andy
     
  19. sjtalon

    sjtalon Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    set the meter on 20X (resistance setting......ohms) and with the control plate lifted up, touch the black meter lead on the back of a pot, and the red meter lead on the wire at the switch that comes from the pickup.......the yellow or white one whatever it is. Have the sel. switch all the way back (bridge position). You should get anywhere from 6-9 KΩ.

    I see a body screw hole, if the pickup is body mounted, I hope one of the solder points under the pickup ( flatware bobbin) isn't touching and grounding out on the cavity shielding when it's screwed down ??? I even see an impression in the foil where the pickup would be.

    You could try a piece of electrical tape under it.
     
  20. scoobie

    scoobie TDPRI Member

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    Hi,

    Thanks for the input.

    With the pup out of the cavity and touching the wire and the pot as you say above I don't get a reading with the switch all the way back.

    However, If I move the selector to the middle position - which obviously introduces the bridge pup I get 8.99 K ohms.

    What next?

    Thanks,
     
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