My NAD thread a month back started to wander as I found the original trannies, Jensen speaker, and wires were connected not only to a bunch of scary-old original capacitors, but that the newer caps and resistors that had been swapped in were almost all non-spec values: All the tone caps, V1 plate resistors, slope resistor, etc. It turns out these had all been 'mods', not updates. And even those 'new' parts looked very old. Not only that, but some smart folks here pointed out the neutral went to the switch. Plus the switch was static-y when moved, B+ was 423 and bias was scary high, and etc. etc. So a month later I've done the following: Inventory and inspect. Screws tight and sound? Etc. Loosen chassis bolts (PT end second), remove chassis Discharge caps just in case Check fuse size and speed (replaced 2A with 1A Slo-blo) Check and repair speaker wiring Check power mains wiring, safety ground, continuity Check PT OT and speaker code for make and date Photograph everything as it is now and file the pics Clean up chrome, Tolex, etc. Replace uneven feet with 'relic'd' identical 'prong' feet Clean up grill cloth and Fender emblem Install replacement speaker (4 ohm): Fat Jimmy (a WGS variant) Bring amp up on light-bulb limiter to check for shorts Bring amp up on mains power and measure B+ 1, 2, 3 At this point B+ was high, as expected, preamp voltages looked pretty good Pull / save death cap Pull pre-amp e-caps and non-spec resistors Pull metal film resistors in tone stack, trem stack, input jacks Pull 6V6 odd green cathode resistor and cap Take down the flying bundle joints on left side of board for access Pull power section caps and old resistors Unwire cap can connections and clear / insulate nearby items (I used a multi-layer aluminum-foil donut to surround the cap can before I went in with the 120W iron) Remove old cap can (hard even with 120W iron) Clean up solder in that area Install new cap can Wire cap can with inline 470R 5w wirewound resistor (drop B+) Replace 2 oddball heater wire runs with green cloth 18gaj Replace metal film resistors with NOS A-Bs Measure remaining CC resistors on board — replace if far out of spec Install the new Allen-Bradley dropping resistors Populate board with new e-caps and stock value A-B resistors Replace non-spec OD bass cap with rescued death cap (.047 spec tests .048) Replace non-spec OD mids cap with Sozo (.1 uF) Replace non-spec CD treble cap with styrene (250 pf) Reuse .02 CD coupling cap Put in new metal oxide bias resistor and Sprague cap All e-caps on board upgraded to 50V V1 plate resistors upgraded to 1W — reduce hiss Check and re-check populated board Replace the wiring bundle removed for access Rewire power wiring (was hot-fuse-PT and neutral-switch-PT). Goal is hot-fuse-switch-PT and neutral direct to the other PT primary) Put heat shrink on exposed fuse and switch lugs Replace ‘70s 6V6 and 5Y3 with ‘50s RCA and Sylvania that I know and trust Replace 18k tone resistor on bass pot with 10k (value used on DR ‘Nashville mod’) for slightly more scoop, slightly less hair Tack .01 caps alongside the two .01s currently in trem chain to slow trem (this took it from 200 bpm to 120 bpm. M-m-m-m-m.) This list kept growing and may contain some repetition -- I'm not *that* OCD -- and there may have been more steps than that, who knows, summer vacations keep interrupting. My B+ is now (kind of by accident) within a volt or two of scheme voltages. This still gives me 107% dissipation (but that’s a lot better than the 150+% I had originally, and sounds great). The Fat Jimmy speaker is amazing, and you can really hear the ceramic -– is ‘instananeity’ a word??