65 Champ New Power Switch Wiring

KeepItSimpleTele

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Hello,

I’m replacing the slide power switch on my 65 Champ…and confused on the wiring. The new Switchcraft switch has a lot more lugs than the stock one that’s failed. I’ve included a diagram below. I think it’s either A or B…or could be both but I wanted to check with more knowledgeable people here in the forum.

* I know how to discharge the capacitors safely and solder. I’ve already previously done electrolytic replacements and 3 prong pover conversion but this little switch is making me second guess what to do! The switch is 3A and 125 VAC

0032A92E-14CC-4AC2-8552-46EDC6C2C2C0.jpeg
 

King Fan

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Sorry, it's gratuitous to mention now, but with a DMM continuity tester, even I can decode some simpler switch types, including the all-important up v. down question. :) Though direction may be less important in that format, where you can easily flip the whole assembly.
 

KeepItSimpleTele

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Sorry, it's gratuitous to mention now, but with a DMM continuity tester, even I can decode some simpler switch types, including the all-important up v. down question. :) Though direction may be less important in that format, where you can easily flip the whole assembly.
Thanks, I just looked up how to do that. I’m a total novice and so have been just looking up how to do certain component replacements so far….and how to be safe. I really don’t know much yet about electrical theory :)

I’ll check for continuity with the multimeter using the Ohm setting before soldering.
 

dwhutchens

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A won
Hello,

I’m replacing the slide power switch on my 65 Champ…and confused on the wiring. The new Switchcraft switch has a lot more lugs than the stock one that’s failed. I’ve included a diagram below. I think it’s either A or B…or could be both but I wanted to check with more knowledgeable people here in the forum.

* I know how to discharge the capacitors safely and solder. I’ve already previously done electrolytic replacements and 3 prong pover conversion but this little switch is making me second guess what to do! The switch is 3A and 125 VAC

View attachment 1082401
A won't do anything, B will be on in the up positon if the new switch is still a slide switch. If it's a toggle switch it will be on in the down position. A DPDT switch is two switches controled by one lever. Each switch has 3 contacts, one switch on the left and one one the right. Top to bottom the middle contact is common and in one positon is connected to the upper contact and in the other position is connected to the lower contact.
 
Last edited:

Blrfl

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B.

If you're stuck on using the DPDT switch, swap the hot and PT wires. If the hot is on the common, you'll have an exposed terminal with AC on it when the amp is turned off.
 

KeepItSimpleTele

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A won

A won't do anything, B will be on in the up positon if the new switch is still a slide switch. If it's a toggle switch it will be on in the down position. A DPDT switch is two switches controled by one lever. Each switch has 3 contacts, one switch on the left and one one the right. Top to bottom the middle contact is common and in one positon is connected to the upper contact and in the other position is connected to the lower contact.
Yes…going to stay stock with the slide switch. I hadn’t thought about how a toggle style would affect the orientation making it opposite….but that makes sense now. People who dabble (me) vs people who have experience :)
 

KeepItSimpleTele

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B.

If you're stuck on using the DPDT switch, swap the hot and PT wires. If the hot is on the common, you'll have an exposed terminal with AC on it when the amp is turned off.
Also something I hadn’t thought of, but this seems like a good precaution to take for me…and anyone else down the line who might be working in there. Thanks for the tip. I’ll do this when switching the switches this weekend.
 

Bluzzi

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Also something I hadn’t thought of, but this seems like a good precaution to take for me…and anyone else down the line who might be working in there. Thanks for the tip. I’ll do this when switching the switches this weekend.

Either way you cannot avoid exposing the HOT wire. However you can use heatshrink tubing on the HOT wire and over the terminal to avoid any accidental exposure to it. Also not a bad idea to mark which wire is HOT for future reference. Another Tech might assume that HOT is on center pole (which is the traditional way). One good rule to keep when working with legal current is to never assume anything. Please be careful and don't do anything unless you are certain of it. Enjoy the DIY. Cheers.
 

Bass Butcher

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Thanks, I just looked up how to do that. I’m a total novice and so have been just looking up how to do certain component replacements so far….and how to be safe. I really don’t know much yet about electrical theory :)

I’ll check for continuity with the multimeter using the Ohm setting before soldering.
That is the method for testing any circuit/component routing, including items with multiple taps like that (when they are disconnected from power sources, voltage meter for live circuits). Also the method for testing speakers, pickups, etc.
Think of your new switch as a 'two channel'/'stereo' switch, which is what it is. Three lugs on the left channel, three on the right. For a simple on/off function it makes zero functional difference which wire goes to which lug, as long as you use the correct two lugs. You are engaging or disconnecting/'breaking' a single wire circuit, just like a light switch. The rule of thumb is to make the identical up/down connections for what you are doing or follow the 'standard' routing but the hot/feed can always be marked with a wrap of friction tape around the wire (another 'standard' in electronics/electrical work).
A simple method for shielding unused 'hot' lugs on something like a 120v switch for safety purposes is a squeeze tube of silicone.
 




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