6 piece saddle hex screws question

[redhouse_ca]

This may be a very dumb question and I searched and found some info but not quite what i was looking for. Sorry if this has been covered (I'm guessing it probably has) but for 6 piece saddles, is even height for the hex screws on both sides of any given string piece always the goal, or do asymmetrical heights (one higher/lower) provide some adjustment benefit? If so, can someone please explain what benefit and summarize best practices on adjustments?

I read that they should be even, but mine are not usually. Once I get the string length and height where the guitar intonates and plays how I want, i always find myself make a bunch of little adjustments and they never end up even. I got tired of trial and error and not really knowing so I figured I ask.

To rephrase, my question is not how or why to adjust, or anything about differences between strings, it's for one string, should it be even height on both sides or is uneven height an adjustment feature of some kind?

 

[jwp2]

A little uneven height is just fine. Mine are the same.

 

[WalthamMoosical]

I think in principle uneven is ok, except that if we're talking about blocks that are truly cheek-by-jowl, unevenness means they are tilted and possibly crowding each other. I have such saddles in a partscaster and I suspect that some of the sitar-like sounds I get (usually on the B string) is due in part to the saddles not being held down properly by string tension when they are tilted. So I try to keep them very even.

 

[Boreas]

No huge deal, but if the saddle is a-leanin', it tends to go a-walkin'. This could produce some unwanted vibrations/overtones if one saddle presses on another, but pretty minor stuff - unless, of course, the Saddle Police pay you a visit. The other issue is if they are uneven, there is a distinct possibility of one screw not even touching the bridge plate. This leaves the other screw with no pressure on it and it can vibrate in the saddle or against the bridge plate which sometimes can be audible acoustically. I typically keep mine even - if anyone cares...

 

[JustABluesGuy]

Your strings should approximate the radius of the fretboard, but the individual saddles should be level and parallel to the front of the guitar body.

The saddles should stair step higher in the middle and lower on the outside, but each saddle should be level.

It might not be an issue if some are slightly angled, but there’s no reason to do so, and it can cause problems, so I keep mine level. OMMV.

 

[memorex]

I set my bridge height screws so the saddles approximate the radius of the fingerboard, which means uneven, but I honestly don't think it makes any difference. It's a matter of preference, and anything different that anyone tells you is nonsense.

 

[Brent Hutto]

I get my "level by eye", meaning I try to keep them where they look even on both sides but I don't stick a ruler on them or anything to get them perfect.

I have had one grub screw not touching the bridge plate at all because it was shorter than the other but the saddles were bunched together and kept that saddle from rocking to the side. So I always check when I adjust them and make sure they are both in solid contact with the bridge plate. As someone said upthread, it can make a funny sound if it's not firmly pressing down.

 

[redhouse_ca]

I think in principle uneven is ok, except that if we're talking about blocks that are truly cheek-by-jowl, unevenness means they are tilted and possibly crowding each other. I have such saddles in a partscaster and I suspect that some of the sitar-like sounds I get (usually on the B string) is due in part to the saddles not being held down properly by string tension when they are tilted. So I try to keep them very even.

thank you, and I agree with you completely. In fact, that was one of the reasons I asked, I've used them that way intentionally to force the piece to lean toward a string. I'm a hack tech and figured I'd get flogged for admitting that but there you have it, I guess it's a "feature"

 

[redhouse_ca]

I get my "level by eye", meaning I try to keep them where they look even on both sides but I don't stick a ruler on them or anything to get them perfect.

I have had one grub screw not touching the bridge plate at all because it was shorter than the other but the saddles were bunched together and kept that saddle from rocking to the side. So I always check when I adjust them and make sure they are both in solid contact with the bridge plate. As someone said upthread, it can make a funny sound if it's not firmly pressing down.

That's a good point on the screws not touching the plate. I've had that happen and it created all kinds of weirdness until I noticed it.

 

[redhouse_ca]

Your strings should approximate the radius of the fretboard, but the individual saddles should be level and parallel to the front of the guitar body.

The saddles should stair step higher in the middle and lower on the outside, but each saddle should be level.

It might not be an issue if some are slightly angled, but there’s no reason to do so, and it can cause problems, so I keep mine level. OMMV.

Thanks, yeah I set em to match the radius but come to think of it, i remember years ago I used to make it a smooth arc (no knowing any better) and so all were uneven in a smooth to the touch arc. I forgot about that until it read this so thanks for the look back.

 

[redhouse_ca]

No huge deal, but if the saddle is a-leanin', it tends to go a-walkin'. This could produce some unwanted vibrations/overtones if one saddle presses on another, but pretty minor stuff - unless, of course, the Saddle Police pay you a visit. The other issue is if they are uneven, there is a distinct possibility of one screw not even touching the bridge plate. This leaves the other screw with no pressure on it and it can vibrate in the saddle or against the bridge plate which sometimes can be audible acoustically. I typically keep mine even - if anyone cares...

Oh and I've wondered who those guys across the street in the white van are. They just keep a lookin this way and the lookin away when I go awakin past their car. Now I know, def saddle police. I'll even them all out just to be safe

 

[Ronkirn]

the idea is to provide YOU with virtually unlimited adjustment to achieve the right metrics for your preferred setup... thus the height of the screws is dictated by what YOU prefer, not some list of specifics someone else has determined is correct..

 

[myfenderissues]

This may be a very dumb question and I searched and found some info but not quite what i was looking for. Sorry if this has been covered (I'm guessing it probably has) but for 6 piece saddles, is even height for the hex screws on both sides of any given string piece always the goal, or do asymmetrical heights (one higher/lower) provide some adjustment benefit? If so, can someone please explain what benefit and summarize best practices on adjustments?

I read that they should be even, but mine are not usually. Once I get the string length and height where the guitar intonates and plays how I want, i always find myself make a bunch of little adjustments and they never end up even. I got tired of trial and error and not really knowing so I figured I ask.

To rephrase, my question is not how or why to adjust, or anything about differences between strings, it's for one string, should it be even height on both sides or is uneven height an adjustment feature of some kind?

Need to be level as possible slant will cause buzzing and other problems

 

[bgelb]

Need to be level as possible slant will cause buzzing and other problems

I agree. They should be level with the body to keep the distance between the saddles.

 

[schmee]

Each bridge segment should be level to the top of the guitar. Why? Because when they are not level they will often just rest on one screw.. I have found some will back out occasionally also, just sitting there loose. Potential vibration/buzz or tuning issues.

 

[toothnclaw]

I'd say if you play chords, you don't need to follow fretboard radius, that would make it next to impossible for you to strum all six strings with approximately the same pressure from your hand.

As for individual saddles, of course you should experiment, but face screw could be a little lower than foot screw, I think. That would 'pin' the saddle firmer under the string. Of course, angled within reason. Weight and where it falls is a factor in how your guitar sounds (tone), sustains, etc.

 

[hippychip]

I'm not sure it really matters, as long as both screws are touching (as the others have said), but my OCD demands that each saddle is flat.

 

[DrMorpheus]

This may be a very dumb question and I searched and found some info but not quite what i was looking for. Sorry if this has been covered (I'm guessing it probably has) but for 6 piece saddles, is even height for the hex screws on both sides of any given string piece always the goal, or do asymmetrical heights (one higher/lower) provide some adjustment benefit? If so, can someone please explain what benefit and summarize best practices on adjustments?

I read that they should be even, but mine are not usually. Once I get the string length and height where the guitar intonates and plays how I want, i always find myself make a bunch of little adjustments and they never end up even. I got tired of trial and error and not really knowing so I figured I ask.

To rephrase, my question is not how or why to adjust, or anything about differences between strings, it's for one string, should it be even height on both sides or is uneven height an adjustment feature of some kind?

So you have three ways to deal with this! one, you can use thread lock on the screws to keep them from backing off, or change the screws to knurled tips, so they can bite into the plate, or make up two blocks to put on either side of the Hi E and Low E, or a combo of all of the above. I have had this problem with 6pc saddles from the time they came out. If you do the level step saddle setup the problem is the Hi and Lo E tend to walk all over the plate. The cure is knurled height adj. screws, but sometimes this may still not work, and you will need the small blocks to keep everything toed in. Hope this helps.

 

[Caffiend]

Mine are never even. I wouldn't even waste time worrying about it. The screws serve two purposes: allowing the strings to follow the curve of the board and allowing adjustment of height to preference. The only situations where I'd be concerned are if the ends poke out and catch my hand; if for some reason the screws are set so differently that the saddle rocks left to right and if the setup just doesn't feel good in the hand.

 

[poolpog]

... for 6 piece saddles, is even height for the hex screws on both sides of any given string piece always the goal, or do asymmetrical heights (one higher/lower) provide some adjustment benefit?...

Do you mean, the screws on a single saddle?

What on earth man? Keep them even.

It probably doesn't affect tone or playability for a single string... But my OCD, you're killin' me, Smalls.