I used a router with a trammel attachment to route out 4 perfectly round holes for a speaker baffle. I should have used a smaller straight cutting bit, but I didn't have a sharp one in a smaller size.Hi Michael Smith,
Would you believe me if I say that I trust myself so much more for the cab than I do for the chassis wiring?
The *orange x* power cord ground area is fine.the "red circle" terminal strip. How does it look to you?
I'm curious how you will drill the safety earth hole in the end of the chassis using a drill press? Unless the "table" on the drill press can be lowered way down. Maybe you should clamp a block of wood on the inside of the chassis prior to drilling to provide some additional support for the metal.
I would drill your eyelet board mounting holes in a place where they don't get covered up by any components like was done in my Vibro Champ. In the unlikely event you ever have to partially lift the eyelet board, you wouldn't have to unsolder anything. When I replaced my bias resistor (to lower the idle plate dissipation), I installed it so the mounting screw is more accessible. As you can see, I also increased the voltage of the bias capacitor.Michael Smith, Thanks for these pictures. Funny to see that Mojo gives you a Chassis that has holes you don't need and that therefore needs to be drilled... No "plug and play": even with a kit, you have to think (and not only about how to avoid high voltage)
I wanted to edit my previous post to thank Lowerleftcoast for the "headphone test" thing but I'll do it there instead. Thanks! Never thought that this hum thing could happen so clearly as the difference between a single coil and a humbucker pup. I'll test it.