5f1 wiring help

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Mick61, Jun 19, 2021.

  1. Mick61

    Mick61 TDPRI Member

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    New to the forum and looking for some help. I've searched quite a few of the threads, but can't find what I'm after.

    I have a Boothill 5f1 kit. I've populated the board and have moved on to the wires. Problem is the colors of my wires are different than the supplied diagram. I have green, red, gray, white, brown and bare. The diagram shows black, orange, yellow, etc.. Looks like 2 or 3 different gauges too.

    Anyone else run into this that found the solution? Or is there a way to reconcile /cross reference the wire colors? Thx all!
     
  2. vhilts1

    vhilts1 Tele-Holic

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    contact boot hill ask for specifically a new diagram and specifically matching wires.

    id be wary if they try to send just a new diagram to match your currently mismatched wires.....or if they try to send a new wire set to match your diagram

    it’s important the diagram and wires match when shipped from the factory
     
  3. Mick61

    Mick61 TDPRI Member

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    Thx. I did contact them and was referred to a blog post on their site. It deals with varying wire colors, but is too vague for my experience level. It leaves too much guess work and interpretation for me.
     
  4. J. Bonkosky

    J. Bonkosky Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    The heavy gauge wire is for your heater and pilot light wiring. The bare is for grounding. You can use all one color for the rest of the amp if you want. Wire color has no meaning in this case. Most tweed Fender amps use all yellow wire for the signal and low voltage. Green for the heaters. And red for high voltage. But you can use whatever you want.
     
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  5. Mick61

    Mick61 TDPRI Member

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    Thx. Yeah, I figured color isn't a determinant on its own. I guess it's the gauge and type that are throwing me for a loop. The heaviest gauge I have (#20?) is green. The others are #22 and maybe one thinner than that. Also, the white is solid core like the bare ground. The others are twisted wire cores.
     
  6. boredguy6060

    boredguy6060 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Dave who owns Boothill is a very reputable guy. He may assume that your experience level is higher than it is.
    If you called him and explained that this is your first build and you would appreciate a little more assistance, I’m sure he would help you out.
    Dave has sold more amps than any other single source on this forum. A few years ago you could open the Shock Bros page and third of all the threads were Boothill related. There use to be some great guys who would help you out just to have something productive to do.
    When you do have an issue, pics will get you a lot of help, everyone likes good pic, they’re worth a thousand words I hear.
    Good luck.
     
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  7. J. Bonkosky

    J. Bonkosky Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Solid and twisted don’t matter for your purposes. Use them interchangeably. Just use the bigger size for your heaters.
     
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  8. Mick61

    Mick61 TDPRI Member

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    No complaints about Dave or Boothill. My kit looks to be top quality. The parts were very well labelled, packaged and complete....except for the wires.

    I've asked him a question that probably 100's of others have asked before. He referred me to his blog, a type of FAQ, for the answer. It's just far too vague for me as I mentioned above.

    I may call him directly because I'm flummoxed when it comes to these 5 different wires.
     
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  9. James Knox

    James Knox Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Hey Bro - not sure if you got the answer for this yet, but here is a suggestion...

    I use this color scheme (Rob Robinette) for 5F1s.


    64EEBFA4-D8B4-40EF-AFB6-D1155C4C1DAC.png

    I would use Green for Heaters and substitute White for Yellow, Brown for Black and Grey for Orange. And then Red for Red and Bare for Preamp Ground Bus.
     
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  10. Mick61

    Mick61 TDPRI Member

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    View attachment 869279

    Very timely! I was pretty sure I reconciled the wire colours and types on my own. Your reply and reference pic confirm I was very close. Plus your colour scheme works perfectly. So thanks a bunch to you and the others. You've all been very helpful.
     
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  11. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    Additional info:
    There is no problem using 22AWG for the heater wires on a 5F1. It is big enough. Thicker heater wire may be difficult to fit into the socket terminals. You have the option to make it easier on yourself with 22AWG.;)
     
  12. James Knox

    James Knox Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    I have found this to be true as well...
     
  13. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    The shock brothers like to see photos of new builds. Several of us will comment on the progress, which can be helpful.
    For instance: Placement of a hot resistor near a sensitive capacitors can be avoided. Even those of us with experience have installed a capacitor with the polarity reversed. Other useful tips can be gleaned from the several opinions you will be given.
    Don't worry. There are no stupid questions. We were all new to building amps when each of us started. The shock brothers of the TDPRI community are happy to help.
     
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  14. Urshurak776

    Urshurak776 Tele-Afflicted

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    I am literally the only person on the entire forum that didn't have a good experience with Dave, but if you purchased it from him, I'm sure he will make it right. Though the info provided on this thread should get you through.
     
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  15. Mick61

    Mick61 TDPRI Member

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    20210624_104828.jpg

    Oof, ok. I'm almost done the wiring. I'll get to the tube sockets next, but I don't have the transformers yet, so I'll have to wait a bit to complete it.

    Here's a pic of what I've done so far. How does it look to the experts? Errors? Improvements?


    Thx again to everyone! 20210624_104828.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    Looks pretty good.

    The green bias resistor gets very hot. Provide some space between it and the caps.

    If you can, you may want to position the two dropping resistors, the ones under the large filter caps, more toward the edge of the board. Again for heat reasons. Caps are sensitive to heat.
     
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  17. Mick61

    Mick61 TDPRI Member

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    Again LLC, thx very much.

    I'm a noob when it comes to nomenclature. Are you referring to the resistors I've circled below?

    20210624_104828(1).jpg
     
  18. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    Yes, those are the ones.
     
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  19. James Knox

    James Knox Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Looking good Brother - Keep up the good work!

    Here is an example of “dropping the dropping Resistors” toward the bottom of the board, and getting the Cathode Cap away from the Cathode Resistor...

    F39F31D7-C77D-4C36-826B-27E2F25AD578.jpeg
     
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  20. alnicopu

    alnicopu Friend of Leo's

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    Dont worry about the colors so much for now. Trace each wire and compare it to the schematic/diagram then put it where it goes. Not much in there so trace each wires attached circuit from end to end. Agreed about keeping all resistors, at least, not touching the electrolytic caps near them. Good rule of thumb.
     
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