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5e3 hardware?

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by twst1up, Nov 20, 2020.

  1. twst1up

    twst1up TDPRI Member

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    Built me a mojotone kit and I've built cab based on the modulus/blues alligator plans.
    A few hiccups, ie I have the plans but not instructions.

    My questions re hardware: the screws?

    how is the baffle attached to the fascia? Wood screws? T nuts?

    How bout the back panels?

    What do u use? Not anal about exact "to spec"...

    TIA
     
  2. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire

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    I use sheet metal screws through the baffle into the frame if the baffle is mounted inside the cab. If its mounted from the outside I use trim washer and oval head SS screws. I also pre drill the baffle for mounting holes after the speaker cloth is mounted I use a soldering iron to chase the holes through the speaker cloth. I also use trim washer with ss screws to mount the back panel. I also use these to mount the speaker to the baffle
    https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/screws-original-fender-vintage-speaker-mounting-stud-nut
     
  3. jsnwhite619

    jsnwhite619 Friend of Leo's

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    For the baffle, I drill straight through the cleats & baffle and use machine screws with keps nut.

    I use t-nuts and machine screws on the rear panel, but it's a good bit extra work. Wood screws should have a smooth shank below the head where the actual panel comes into contact. No matter what, drill pilot holes if you use wood screws for anything to avoid splitting.
     
    Bill Moore likes this.
  4. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Friend of Leo's

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    I use a 10-32 Phillips head Stainless machine screw with a locking nut. If you want to get fancy the antique radio suppliers have flower headed bolts that look pretty cool.
    I use what I believe are called *auto door panel screws* or *auto trim screws*. They have a finish washer with the screw.
     
  5. NTC

    NTC Tele-Meister

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    I used something akin to sheet metal screws on the back panels. Threads like wood screws that extend up to the head. Heads were not quite flat.
     
  6. Twangbo

    Twangbo TDPRI Member Silver Supporter

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    I had the same issue recently on a Boothill Champ build where I made my own cabinet- actually repurposed a weird open framed wall hanger thingy at Salvation Army for $5.99 that fit the bill for me since I needed to fit a 12" speaker- I didn't want to mar the clean look of the oxblood grill cloth, so I went for a Kreg pocket hole jig which precisely drills angled holes from inside the cabinet into the 1/2" birch ply baffle without popping through the face. I still need to secure the chassis in the cab and will eventually do so if/when i stop playing the damn thing long enough- since it sounds so good, its hard to stop... I swear, this circuit to my ears is the closest thing to sonic heaven when the distortion kicks in. But I haven't tried a 5E3 yet... Good luck with the baffle!
     

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  7. agent_zed

    agent_zed TDPRI Member

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    I don't know your exact kit but with most of these things it comes down to personal choice. There are loads of different types of fixings depending on how you want it to look. As above you could use counter sunk heads or raised countersunk. Or use screwcups with countersunk so they sit on the surface. Or a flange headed screw.

    flange head and screwcups give good spread of pressure if using on thin materials and unlikely to pull through.

    When i built my 5e3 head i managed to hide all of the screw heads by screwing from the inside. Depends on the thickness of the baffle though (as mentioned in earlier posts). If you use normal woodscrews from the back it's better to cut the pointy bits off so you get maximum full width thread to the very end e.g if you are only going in 10mm and 5mm is the taper of the end of the screw you have only about half of the screw at full width.

    If you use machine screws into captive nuts it might be worth adding a tiny bit of threadlock to prevent vibrating loose.
     
    Lowerleftcoast likes this.
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