Hi everyone, This is my first post here on TDPRI, and I apologize in advance for the length. I bought a 5e3 clone about 10 years ago that’s always had some issues, and I’m finally getting around to sorting them out. It’s really noisy cranked, but I can’t say for sure if it’s new noise or if it’s always been that way because I’ve only rarely been able to really open it up. It sounds amazing at low volumes. The amp has sat idle for maybe 5 of the past 10 years with some intermittent playing. I turned it on last week for the first time in a while, and there’s some definite 120 cycle hum with a fluttering sound in the background- figured since I’ve had it for 10 years and it was built 6 years before that, that sound is AC ripple and it’s time to swap out the electrolytics. I’ve bought new TAD filter caps (20, 20, 16 to tighten up the bass) and some other parts from mojotone to sort it out. Im hoping you all could take a look at the inside to see if there’s anything else I should look at while I’m in there. I’ve worked with amps before so I’m comfortable soldering, working with high voltages, and discharging caps. Now for the rest of the story, which I actually joined TDPRI to tell you guys. Whoever built this amp really made some interesting engineering decisions, and I’m hoping that there’s a chance that they may be on this forum to walk me through what’s happening here. First, the good: - extremely nice lacquered tweed cabinet that looks like solid wood - what looks like a real vintage Jensen p12n that sounds incredible - really cool NOS Raytheon 5y3 and Marconi coke bottle 6v6g power tubes The puzzling (pics below): - instead of a 270 ohm 5w ceramic resistor coupled with a 25uf cap going into the filter caps, what looks like a 3w 120 and 3w 240 metal oxide are wired in series and jumpered to the cap. I guess that would work, but that can’t be safe, right? - instead of a 4.7k 2w metal film resistor connecting the first and second filter positive leads, there’s a 5k 5w ceramic resistor. No idea why. - the lead dress needs some work out of the power transformer, which I’m planning on fixing. - it looks like the eyelet board was screwed to the chassis before the electronics were soldered on, so the jumpers that would usually go behind it are in front. - the ground scheme is funky- instead of a center tap, there are a bunch of ground points to a brass plate at the top of the chassis where the pots are. - I discovered about a year ago that on the foil on the inside of the back panel, it’s etched that the amp was built in 2004 by Stu-daddy Hopkins with a lifetime warranty and a signature. I was super excited about this because of his awesome reputation and sent the amp to him to recap. It turns out that it’s a forgery! So I apparently unknowingly bought a knockoff Stu daddy amp from Craigslist sometime in 2011. Stu was not happy about that, and obviously I wasn’t either, because I had to ship a tube amp across the country twice with nothing to show for it. Anyway, I’m hoping the buzz/hum is either the old rectifier gone bad or the filter caps. The noise is always there, and increases when you turn up either volume and the tone as well. At 12, it’s really distracting and kind of unplayable. I don’t think it’s a grounding issue or cold joint, but I have no evidence to say it’s not. I don’t think it’s lead dress because the heaters are tucked away and I’ve poked around and tried to move things- no change. So I’m planning on swapping the filters, putting in new Mallory coupling caps, fixing the lead dress, and re-kajiggering the resistors to the correct values and locations. I think I’ll leave the jumpers where they are instead of moving them to the back of the board. I’ve also bought a new 5y3 and power tubes just in case. Based on the pictures, is there anything else I should be looking for once I’m inside? Does my description of the noise sound like bad filter caps? Thanks all, and again, sorry for the long post.