5e3 Build with Boot Hill's Guidance

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by BV56, Apr 18, 2018.

  1. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Hello Fender Friends!

    Finally getting around to assembling my 5e3 kit from Boot Hill. First attempt at building an amp, so when Dave says, of my pre-wired/unsoldered Turret Board: “Benjamin, Beautiful work. Outstanding!” I feel I may survive the journey.

    That said, my next step is the chassis. I’ve seen photos whereby the sockets, pots, switches, etc., are mounted outside the chassis, wired up and soldered, and then re-located to their final site. Besides thinking in “mirror images” are there any real drawbacks to this approach? It appears that both, my soldering, and my knuckles, will fare better this way…

    And just a few thoughts/questions:

    • I have a voltmeter, but do I need a Variac or a Dim Bulb Tester?
    • It appears several aficionados praise old RCA tubes, particularly the 6V6’s. All 2-cents welcome here…


      I already bought the following:


    • 2 Webers - 12A125-A-16-20w
    • Classic Tone 40-18022 Vintage 5E3 Tweed Deluxe Style Output Transformer 8 ohm
    • Classic Tone 40-18021 Vintage Fender 5E3 Style 20W Power Transformer 120V

    Warning: I have a demanding life, so this may go slow. Additionally, I hafta “set up” & “break down” each time I wanna work on the amp, because of space constraints.


    Thanks Friends!





    Benjamin





    P1080824.JPG P1080833.JPG IMG_1198.JPG
     
  2. milocj

    milocj Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Nice start. A variac isn't needed at all IMHO, but making the lightbulb tester is cheap, fast and I very good idea (especially for a first build).

    Take it at an easy pace and triple check everything. Most of all, be safe and have fun...just don't get so comfortable that you forget safety once you've applied power for the first time.
     
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  3. clintj

    clintj Friend of Leo's

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    +1 on the limiter. Very useful for amp work, and cheap to make.

    I wouldn't consider vintage tubes until the amp is dialed in completely, including adjusting the bias resistor. EHX makes a nice 6V6 (and an excellent 12AY7) for these; I'm really liking them in my 5E3. I also keep a full selection of JJ tubes around for breaking in new builds, that way I'm only out a few bucks if something unfortunate happens and kills a tube.
     
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  4. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire

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    Looks good, defiantly build a lightbulb limiter lot cheaper than a Variac. I would also just buy some off the shelf Tubes as clinton suggested. Myself I like vintage 5Y3's still reasonably priced other than that IMO the few vintage tubes I've found that stand out don't justify the cost. looks like your off to a good start just take your time check & recheck and post pics, #1 have fun.
     
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  5. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Thanks - Your thoughts seem to be the general consensus.... I'll probably go with them...
     
  6. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for your thoughts - EHX 6V6's may be a safer bet, if for no other reason, other than a wiring error - don't wanna' lose an expensive tube..
     
  7. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Thanks much! I build a Limiter. Probably go with a more economical 6V6, unless a vintage pair shows up at a great price.
     
  8. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Okay, here's what's going on:

    Firstly, I actually made some progress today (didn't anticipate working this until next weekend)

    I began the heater wires. I followed Dave's (Boot Hill Amps) online video. Short and succinct! It ushers one nicely through this embryonic stage in the amp's development.

    Since it's all green wiring, I added a black mark, here and there, for identification purposes.

    Also, not sure how good my soldering skills are (at least aesthetically) but I checked for continuity, with my volt meter, and all seems good.

    Thanks all!

    Insert 2-cents here (even 4-cents considering inflation):


    P1080841.JPG
     
  9. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    So, after doing a little more reading (actually, I've done quite a lot - problem is, I just can't commit it all to memory) I find that, on heater wires:
    • Twisting should continue to as close to the socket as possible
    • Twisting should be tight, not flimsy
    • Use minimal lengths, and not more than necessary
    After reviewing my chassis, it appears, to my eyes, to fall short a bit in these areas. I am uncertain though, if the violations are severe enough to matter, or if I am still in "safe range"

    Anyone care to weigh in on this?

    All opinions welcome....


    Thanks - Benjamin....
     
  10. hackworth1

    hackworth1 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    Looking good.
     
  11. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Are you saying I don't have to tidy up those twists and routes?
     
  12. Nickfl

    Nickfl Tele-Afflicted

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    Those heaters aren't perfect, but I wouldn't go back and re do them. V1 and v4 are a little sloppy with the wires sperating away from the socket, but v2 and v3 look pretty good. In any case I don't think they will be a problem. If your worried you can just move the wires on v1 and v4 closer together, keep in mind that the twisting itself doesn't actually have anything to do with canceling noise it just keeps the wires close together, that's all that actually matters.
     
  13. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire

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    My self I like to over think and over twist. I would redo heater wires only if it's going to bug you nows the time to it, chances are the wires are fine. The heater wires are a pain to get a perfect look and i'll omit I've I've redone some of mine.
     
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  14. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Thanks Nickfl - I'm on the fence, but, for whatever reason, leaning (falling) on the side of re-do....

    Actually, I though tighter wound wires offered more hum cancellation - that it was more functional as opposed just aesthetics....

    Anyway, I could probably do it in an hour or so.... I'll see

    Thanks for replying!
     
  15. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Yes, I have a mild case of OCD, and "bug me" it may.... I am probably gonna re-do them, especially if there's any truth to the relation between hum and twist (# of twists, tightness, closeness to tube sockets, etc...)

    Thanks for the reply! Benjamin
     
  16. 26and385

    26and385 TDPRI Member

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    Benjamin,
    I might be wrong since the pics are not super sharp, but do you have the two resistors across the filter caps swapped?
     
  17. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    This is my 1st build so I'm not 100% certain of all terminology. I took a few close-ups of the Turret Board - Perhaps these will help...

    Much thanks for "looking in"!!!



    P1080857.JPG



    P1080858.JPG
     
  18. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    So I tidied up the Heater Wires, meaning I de-soldered @ 1 terminal on each Socket, added a twist or two, and re-soldered. Here, have a look:



    P1080860.JPG





    P1080861.JPG




    P1080862.JPG


    Thanks for your time and counsel....

    Benjamin
     
  19. BV56

    BV56 Tele-Meister

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    Thanks to everyone on this forum who offer their time and expertise. I look forward to a day, when I can reciprocate. I need a build or 2 under my belt. Kinda' like a right of passage. Till then, I hafta' go through this, get a few battle scars, and hopefully, emerge better for it....

    All the best - Benjamin
     
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