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5e3 boot hill amp build

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Spc10ssss, Dec 14, 2020.

  1. Spc10ssss

    Spc10ssss TDPRI Member

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    Hello, I just finished my first 5e3 kit from boot Hill, when I put the tubes in and turned it on I got no sound, if I switch it to standby I get a pretty good hum but it doesn't fluctuate with the adjustment of any knobs. I am familiar with discharging the capacitors and I'm comfortable using a voltmeter. I wasn't sure about the speaker Jack connection and I'm sure my soldering isn't the best, I tried to go slow and take my time. I'll post pics I took and I really appreciate any help thanks!
     

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  2. ThermionicScott

    ThermionicScott Poster Extraordinaire

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    Welcome to the forums! Please measure and record the voltages at each tube pin -- whether it ultimately shows the issue or not, it's a good first step in debugging a tube amp. :)
     
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  3. wabashslim

    wabashslim Friend of Leo's

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    Actually, before you run this again you really need to go through it completely & minutely, looking at absolutely EVERYTHING. Getting a loud hum on standby is a bad sign and running it for long might blow something up. At your level of experience you should get somebody with some know-how to look it over...even a tech although that may cost something.
    Maybe contact Boot Hill too.
     
  4. J. Bonkosky

    J. Bonkosky Tele-Meister Silver Supporter

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    I would check the circuit part by part against the schematic for errors. Also the length of the wires in the circuit need to be as short as possible. Lead dress is a major source of noise and weird problems.
     
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  5. Preacher

    Preacher Friend of Leo's

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    Light bulb limiter - will allow you to see grounding issue before it fries anything.

    If the limiter shows you are good, those input schematics are all over the place and sometimes it is really easy to solder a tip tab thinking it is a sleeve tab and then the ground tab becomes the sleeve tab and your ground becomes the tip and on and on...
     
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  6. jman72

    jman72 Tele-Afflicted

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    Did you follow any type of start-up procedure? Check out Robrob's site

    https://robrobinette.com/Tube_Amp_Startup.htm

    This will help you go through step by step and possibly track down which part of the circuit is giving you the problem. I've used it on two 5e3 builds and a 5f1 build,and in two of the three builds it helped me figure out minor mistakes that will keep your amp from working. And I also highly recommend using the lightbulb limiter.
     
  7. Spc10ssss

    Spc10ssss TDPRI Member

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    Thank you so much I will check out both
     
  8. screefer

    screefer Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Welcome Spc!
    If your pics were clearer and without the glare, the 'Aces" here would be able to troubleshoot easier and quicker.
    I had the same photo issues and worked on that skill. I took lots of shots and then culled the dodgy ones. I got lots of help from the great folks here.
    The light bulb limiter is worth it. Please build one.
    Solder on!!
     
  9. James Knox

    James Knox Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Welcome to Shock Brother World!

    I agree with all the suggestions already, especially building a lightbulb limiter asap before you fire it up again. Then step-by-step through RobRobs Startup Procedure. Recording and sharing your B+ and Tube Pin voltages is fun to do and usually ferrets out where the problem is.

    When I have ran into “no guitar audio” probs, it was either a ground missing somewhere OR the input jacks. Especially on a 5E3, lol.

    Hang in there Bud, you will “rockin in a free world soon”.
     
  10. Spc10ssss

    Spc10ssss TDPRI Member

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    Thanks a lot to everyone for all of the advice, I decided to take the amp in to a guy to have it fixed, he got it working but the tone and one of the volume knobs Dont do anything now but it sounds Pretty good, he said he’ll have to take the board off and figure out where it’s wired wrong, I think I’m just going to leave it alone I’m tired of messing with it and it sounds fine.
     
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  11. D'tar

    D'tar Friend of Leo's

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    If you get a second wind and some spare time.... There are things we can check to get fully functional here...

    As mentioned, A voltage chart to start. Which volume does not work? Do all inputs work? I don't see a bright cap. Here is an easy way to check your input network..



    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/the-dtar-input-jack-test.1049490/
     
  12. Muzzy

    Muzzy TDPRI Member

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    I would do a continuity test from the topside of the board to see if it's wired wrong under the board. It wouldn't take very long.
     
  13. Spc10ssss

    Spc10ssss TDPRI Member

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    I really would like to do that I’m justa total moron, I really don’t know how to do anything every time I try something it doesn’t work, and now I’m nervous about ruining the amp or shocking myself. I tried to look at the robinette article but it’s just like reading Chinese I don’t know Like what bias I have? Would be nice to hear some crunch though idk
     
  14. Spc10ssss

    Spc10ssss TDPRI Member

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    i just turned everything off and discharged the capacities and checked the circuit against the schematic with a continuity tester, I found one problem my fils circuit was touching a pin from one of the other pins so I separated them, so now the volume knob closest to the pilot light controls the bright jacks and both jack’s work, the other volume knob controls the normal jacks and both work, the tone knob still doesn’t do anything, the normal jacks get louder at a much lower volume than the bright jacks. I’ll try to post some better pics maybe get this figured out.
     
  15. jman72

    jman72 Tele-Afflicted

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    Which volume doesn't work- the second (bright) volume? Maybe you've just got the volume/tone wired incorrectly. For instance, I don't see anything (your bright cap) wired from the first lug of the tone pot to the bright volume (middle lug) like is shown on most layouts.
     
  16. Muzzy

    Muzzy TDPRI Member

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    Check the wires on the tone control. You may have something wired wrong there. Do a continuity test on the tone control wires to see if there going to the right places.
     
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  17. jman72

    jman72 Tele-Afflicted

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    Thinking about it, it would still "work" without the bright cap, but it would be helpful to me if you could get a better shot of your volume/tone pot wiring to look at- I still think there is something possibly going on there.
     
  18. Spc10ssss

    Spc10ssss TDPRI Member

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    I think so too the guy that serviced it added the big orange cap, and the one between the tone and the bright volume knob, I will take a better picture now.
     
  19. Spc10ssss

    Spc10ssss TDPRI Member

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    39B0399D-46A5-48D2-8449-65A38FB0F570.jpeg
     

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  20. Spc10ssss

    Spc10ssss TDPRI Member

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    Tone is on the left, bright volume us on the right,
     
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