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$5 router table

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by flatfive, Aug 28, 2011.

  1. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Yesterday I was about to buy a router table to replace
    my lousy, warped, old, cheap table. Being cheap, I first
    looked around at how to build one, but part of the problem
    is that the insert is expensive (if you buy it).

    Then I saw a Jack Well's post showing that if you use a
    Porter-Cable 690, you can build an ultra-simple table with
    no insert -- just attach the router base to the table.

    The table I made cost $5 -- $3.75 for the surface, and the rest
    for a few stainless steel screws (10-24 x 1"). The surface gets
    placed on top of one of those portable work tables.

    Nothing original here; just sharing how simple this set up is.
    I'm going to make another one that's wider than this.

    [​IMG]

    The surface after drilling and the hole saw:

    [​IMG]

    Note that the cheapest WorkMate doesn't work without
    modification because the two top surface pieces don't
    separate quite enough for the Porter-Cable base. The
    pictured table is a Skil model.

    Here's with the router adjusted to maximum height:

    [​IMG]

    View from below. The on/off switch is easy to get to.

    [​IMG]

    Edit: If you're not aware of the Porter-Cable 690, height
    adjustment is made simply by twisting the router in the base.
     
  2. Buckocaster51

    Buckocaster51 Super Moderator Staff Member Ad Free Member

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    Mighty fine. Mighty fine!
     
  3. bubba01

    bubba01 Tele-Meister

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    That's perfect for me. I'm gonna steal that idea!
     
  4. bajaasdad

    bajaasdad Tele-Meister

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    Wow.. now I have a router table.

    sweet!!!!

    Can't wait to set this up.

    BD
     
  5. skipjackrc4

    skipjackrc4 Tele-Meister

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    Is that workmate sturdy enough? Still, looks great.
     
  6. Buckocaster51

    Buckocaster51 Super Moderator Staff Member Ad Free Member

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    Might want to hang some cinder blocsk or a 5 gallon bucket filled with water from the table to secure it up a bit.

    :)
     
  7. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Good thinking there. Good job !!
     
  8. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    That laminate shelving is nice as an auxilliary surface clamped to a workbench too. Glue pops off pretty easily. I put legs on one side of a piece I had here and made it the same height at my workbench. I can move it to where I want it depending on what I'm doing and c clamp it in place. I may have to put a router on it too now.... nice job.

    And it is made here...giving somebody a job!
     
  9. davmac

    davmac Tele-Afflicted

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    Great idea and very helpful. I've got a Bosch plunge router and I'm trying to figure out how to table mount it. The remaining challenge I've got it that it has got a "trigger" and safety catch mechanism that needs you to hold it for the router to operate. I have to figure out how to override that but still leave it safe to use. But with this inspiration I'm one step closer. Thanks.
     
  10. LeroyBlues

    LeroyBlues Tele-Holic

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    If you make a 3/4" template of the routers base, on a ROSS spindle sander of course, then you can use a pattern bit to recess the router in your top. You can recess it by half the thickness, 3/8", and still have plenty of strength. This will give you an extra 3/8" height on your bit. You may find you need that extra height at times to avoid running the chuck up too high. Another plus is it's easier to align the base when you are putting it back on the table.
     
  11. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    I have a Porter Cable 690 mounted directly to 3/4 in. Melamine with no recess for the router base. I can raise the router motor until the collet extends just a little above the table surface. Therefore for the Porter Cable 690 at least, no recess is necessary.

    ......[​IMG]
     
  12. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Inspirational!
     
  13. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    The table I'm using is a Skil, which is definitely sturdy enough.

    The main table I use for guitar work is the cheapest model of
    WorkMate, which doesn't "open" quite enough for the P-C router
    base to fit, but I'm going to see is sanding out just a small
    area in the middle of the two top pieces will allow it to fit.
    I think it would also be sturdy enough.
     
  14. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    +1. If you look at the third picture I posted, the router is
    raised to its highest position.

    Jack - thanks a lot for that post of yours back in 2006 showing
    that with the 690, no table insert is needed.

    One last thing: it's possible to buy the 690 base separately
    so that it doesn't have to be screwed onto the melamine
    every time you want to use the table. It's Porter-Cable
    part 1001.

    http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-1001-Router-2-Inch-Diameter/dp/B00004Y76Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1314620542&sr=1-1
     
  15. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Right ...... Before turning on you router you should always make sure you haven't raised it to maximum height. The collet would tear up your template.

    When routing a body shape in shallow passes, one tends to pay most attention to the end of the pattern bit and may not realize the collet is above the table surface.

    I've checked before and found that the bases are available but very expensive. I don't recall the price but it seems it was at least $60. I do all my cavity routing with a small laminate trimmer.

    Amazon has the D-handle base for $87. They have the simple fixed base for $58.66. Just search Amazon for Porter Cable 690 Base

    ......[​IMG]
     
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