4 way wiring help

GeordieBear

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Hi, I’m Dave from the UK.

I am currently building my first partscaster and have a query that I was hoping someone may be able to assist with in the wiring a 4 way switch. I decided to opt for a 4 way switch to go with some twisted tele pickups. I am following the diagrams for the alternative switch design from Six String Supplies. I seem to be getting the neckmoickup up and running for position 1, and position 3 seems to switch in the neck pickup, but nothing from the bridge pickup, but does seem to create a lot of him/buzz. I’ve tried to follow back the wires and check them but can’t see any issues and I’m now getting a bit stumped with what to try next.

Any ideas 💡?

Thanks

Dave

561FBAF5-0C87-49D9-BB50-76573D2296B8.jpeg
302743B8-B171-4D9B-B462-26F4A9CB52BC.jpeg
E6B99725-6EFF-444C-AD87-F7D83C2B3384.jpeg
 

Carcinogen

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One of the grounds for the neck is specifically for the cover, you might be running the wrong ground to the switch. Swap em out and see what happens.
 

Steve Holt

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I can't really see anything...Something I always do is check the pickups by themselves. Do they have resistance?

Then wire it up, but don't stuff the whole thing into the cavity. Plug it in. Does it work?

Then stuff the whole thing into the cavity. Does it work?

Oftentimes I'll find that everything works when it's loose, but then when I stuff it into the cavity something shorts or disconnects and doesn't work right.

As @Carcinogen said, could be the grounds on the neck pickup. Most of them are yellow and black ground, white hot, but some manufacturers do funky stuff, so it's worth checking to make sure. But yours look right according to what is 'normal'
 

Steve Holt

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And just for clarification you might say what's happening in each position. Because from your post I'm inferring that the neck works with the switch all the way forward, and the neck works in the series postion, but the bridge doesn't work at all in any position. Or did I read that wrong?
 

GeordieBear

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And just for clarification you might say what's happening in each position. Because from your post I'm inferring that the neck works with the switch all the way forward, and the neck works in the series postion, but the bridge doesn't work at all in any position. Or did I read that wrong?
Many thanks for the replies.

Just to clarify, yes, it is the neck that is working, and yes, it works in the forward neck position and the series position but nothing from the parallel position and nothing at all from the bridge pickup. So from the forward position (1), the neck works in position 1 and 3, but not in 2, and the bridge does not work in positions 2, 3 or 4.

I should have a multimeter around somewhere 🤔
 

GeordieBear

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One of the grounds for the neck is specifically for the cover, you might be running the wrong ground to the switch. Swap em out and see what happens.
Thanks for the reply 👍

The cover ground from the neck is the yellow cable that is attached to the volume pot, as per the instructions. Out of the two pickups, it is the neck that is working, whilst the bridge is not.
 

GeordieBear

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Also just to add, the twisted tele pickups have three wires already connected to the neck PUP for the cover ground wire which is yellow.

For the bridge PUP, it has a metal baseplate for grounding so I have not fitted a specific grounding cable.

Just for reference, here is also the Fender wiring diagram that came with the Twisted tele PUPs.
FE6697D5-1614-412B-8B2C-066B0DE65970.jpeg
 

Tuxedo Poly

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Check the soldering on the bridge pickup hot wire (white) at the switch and the ground (black) on the volume pot. Reflow the solder see if that helps.
The bridge pickup hot is wired to a switch lug called a common which is connected to the other lugs on the same side of the switch in sequence as you change the switch position.
Using the 6 string diagram convention when the switch is in position 1 (bridge only) the signal path is ground on bridge black wire soldered to the volume pot, pickup coil, pickup white wire to switch common, switched to adjacent lug linked to yellow wire and output to volume pot. The other switch positions link the bridge hot to subsequent lugs like this
4_Way_Switch_Positionsz.jpg


This is the 6 string diagram showing the commons and the lug number on both sides.
E6B99725-6EFF-444C-AD87-F7D83C2B3384.jpeg


There can be problems with 4 way swiches and the length of the slot in the control plate. Sometimes position 1 doesn't work because the slot os too short to allow the switch to operate fully. but as you are not seeing the bridge in positions 2 and 3 this won't be the cause.
 

GeordieBear

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Check the soldering on the bridge pickup hot wire (white) at the switch and the ground (black) on the volume pot. Reflow the solder see if that helps.
The bridge pickup hot is wired to a switch lug called a common which is connected to the other lugs on the same side of the switch in sequence as you change the switch position.
Using the 6 string diagram convention when the switch is in position 1 (bridge only) the signal path is ground on bridge black wire soldered to the volume pot, pickup coil, pickup white wire to switch common, switched to adjacent lug linked to yellow wire and output to volume pot. The other switch positions link the bridge hot to subsequent lugs like this
View attachment 1021695

This is the 6 string diagram showing the commons and the lug number on both sides.
View attachment 1021705

There can be problems with 4 way swiches and the length of the slot in the control plate. Sometimes position 1 doesn't work because the slot os too short to allow the switch to operate fully. but as you are not seeing the bridge in positions 2 and 3 this won't be the cause.
Thanks for the reply. I have tried to remove and resolder the connections but die not have any luck, but I am going to try and have a further look at it tomorrow again and will try and clean up some of the connections further. I may try a different soldering iron too. That wiring diagram specifically of the switch connections looks useful 👍

Also for the other comment about the switch fitting in the control plate, I realised that when I was fitting it. It would not allow a clear ‘click’ and inside the switch the poles weren’t sitting correctly in position. I used some needle files and filed a little of the control plate away and now the switch clicks on well.

It definitely seems to be something about the bridge wiring to be affecting both the bridge position and the bridge and neck in series 🤔
 

Steve Holt

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Thanks for the reply. I have tried to remove and resolder the connections but die not have any luck, but I am going to try and have a further look at it tomorrow again and will try and clean up some of the connections further. I may try a different soldering iron too. That wiring diagram specifically of the switch connections looks useful 👍

Also for the other comment about the switch fitting in the control plate, I realised that when I was fitting it. It would not allow a clear ‘click’ and inside the switch the poles weren’t sitting correctly in position. I used some needle files and filed a little of the control plate away and now the switch clicks on well.

It definitely seems to be something about the bridge wiring to be affecting both the bridge position and the bridge and neck in series 🤔

You might dig out that multimeter while you're at it and see if the bridge pickup is alive.
 

jfgesquire

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Where is the ground from the bridge pickup?

I see the ground from the switch, the ground from the cover of the neck pickup and the ground to the jack but no ground for the bridge pickup.
 

dspguitar-Tele

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Check the soldering on the bridge pickup hot wire (white) at the switch and the ground (black) on the volume pot. Reflow the solder see if that helps.
The bridge pickup hot is wired to a switch lug called a common which is connected to the other lugs on the same side of the switch in sequence as you change the switch position.
Using the 6 string diagram convention when the switch is in position 1 (bridge only) the signal path is ground on bridge black wire soldered to the volume pot, pickup coil, pickup white wire to switch common, switched to adjacent lug linked to yellow wire and output to volume pot. The other switch positions link the bridge hot to subsequent lugs like this
View attachment 1021695

This is the 6 string diagram showing the commons and the lug number on both sides.
View attachment 1021705

There can be problems with 4 way swiches and the length of the slot in the control plate. Sometimes position 1 doesn't work because the slot os too short to allow the switch to operate fully. but as you are not seeing the bridge in positions 2 and 3 this won't be the cause.
Dear Tuxedo Poly,
This is a great diagram. It works on regular Telecasters that I have modified to use 4-way switching along with a push-pull tone pot for reverse phase.
However, I tried to modify my Fender JV Modified 60's Telecaster, and it's a bit of a different beast. On that model, the wiring of both the 4-way Switch and the push-pull Tone pot is quite a bit different than what I expected.
Would you possible be able to show me a wiring diagram that would work with the JV Modified Tele and give me the configuration of:
Switch Positions
1 - bridge only
2 - bridge and neck in Parallel
3 - bridge and neck in Series
4 - neck only ?
Thank you much.
Don
 

thegaijin

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It’s a bit hard to tell from the picture, but are you sure the jumper wires are connected on the correct lugs on the switch?

Also, to state the obvious, nothing touching something it shouldn’t be touching?
 
Last edited:

thegaijin

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Where is the ground from the bridge pickup?

I see the ground from the switch, the ground from the cover of the neck pickup and the ground to the jack but no ground for the bridge pickup.
I see the neck cover yellow cable grounded to the pot. The normal neck ground black wire is connected to the switch, and the black ground from bridge connected to the pot.
 

dspguitar-Tele

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Dear Tuxedo Poly,
This is a great diagram. It works on regular Telecasters that I have modified to use 4-way switching along with a push-pull tone pot for reverse phase.
However, I tried to modify my Fender JV Modified 60's Telecaster, and it's a bit of a different beast. On that model, the wiring of both the 4-way Switch and the push-pull Tone pot is quite a bit different than what I expected.
Would you possible be able to show me a wiring diagram that would work with the JV Modified Tele and give me the configuration of:
Switch Positions
1 - bridge only
2 - bridge and neck in Parallel
3 - bridge and neck in Series
4 - neck only ?
Thank you much.
Don
Dear Tuxedo Poly,
This is how the JV Modified Tele is wired. It works, and sounds great.
Just stumped on how to change the positions 3 & 4.
 

dspguitar-Tele

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It’s a bit hard to tell from the picture, but are you sure the jumper wires are connected on the correct lugs on the switch?

Also, to state the obvious, nothing touching something it shouldn’t be touching?
Not sure if the jumpers are connected to the correct lugs, as this is how the JV Modified Tele looks when opened up. Works and sounds as it should.
But the strange wiring is what has me stumped on trying to change positions 3 & 4.
I looked at another JV Modified Tele to be sure, and they are wired the same way.
Certainly different than any of the other diagrams I have been able to find.
Thanks,
Don
 

sjtalon

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I posted diagrams here.............lots of options:
 




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