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Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by tube.tone, Jul 6, 2009.
Is this possible?
I don't have a circuit for you, but I've seen one.
I may have time tonight to draw one up.
Simply treat the neck pickup the way you would for the 4-way switch thing. That is, cut the cover connection to the 'ground lead. Run a new wire from the cover to ground. Switch the two leads ....black to switch and the 'lead' white to ground. Voila! series!
Just like Wally said. Should look like this. The blue line represents shield, which you must separate from ground on the neck pup for this to work. The green lines are optional, most don't bother.
I've not drawn the jack wires nor the bridge ground.
CC, why not just take the cover to ground and switch the contact points of the two leads from the neck pickup? What was the hot lead now would go to ground with the cover lead, and what once was the ground lead would go to the point on the 3-way switch where the erstwhile 'hot' lead was.
Why the complexity? We are just switching the two leads after separating the cover ground. This will yield the series link in the middle.
I am sitting here with a 3-way switch in my hand andlloking at your diagram. I see no way that this circuit works. Again, explain it to me and I will be willing to learn....but I can't see it right now.
There is no reason to rewire the 3-way switch.....except to take the black lead from the neck pickup to the point where the yellow or white lead once made contact.
That's not series, that a phase reverse.
It works, but you have to get your head around this: we are controlling the neck pup, whose hot lead is always connected to the volume pot, by switching its negative (aka"ground") lead.
In the bridge only throw, the neck's negative lead goes nowhere, so the neck pup doesn't sound.
In the neck only throw, the neck's negative lead is connected to ground, so it plays.
In the series throw, the neck's negative is connected to the bridge's hot lead, so it plays in series.
This is EXACTLY the way the Fender 4-way switch works, here we have just eliminated the parallel combo.
Here's a drawing I did a few years ago when this question came up. It does the same thing, but perhaps the different drawing style will make it easier for you to see how it works:
Okay, CC, I see what's going on....finally. I didn't have quite enough caffeine this morning, I suppose. My apologies.
No probs Wally As usual, Deaf Eddie has the patience to explain it carefully, while I draw something and then run away
just my opinion, but while i realize how valuable the series can be, why not go 4-way and have series plus parallel?
That's what I was thinking.
How could I do this with a jay turser tele with this type of switchhttp://stashbox.org/438291/3wayswitch.jpg
Welcome to the forum. I couldn't bring up your site for the switch.
We call this a "zombie" thread since it's so old. It's okay, you probably didn't know.
The moderators will probably lock it.
Deaf Eddie also has a wiring diagram for a push/pull and a 3 way for the series position. You keep the standard 3 way and from whatever position your in it will go to series when the p/p is engaged.
It's a Patent Pending switch.
The wiring is like the import switch
Tux: I don't think that can be the same switch, in thetantric's pic, there are hard-wired connections between lugs 2&3, 4&5, and 6&7. In your pic, only 4&5 are connected.
thetantric: a pic of the writing on the switch might be useful, and maybe a description of how it was wired, and its functions, when it was originally installed.
Here's the switch image in question:
We'd really have to know the lug assignment to say yes or no, but looking at the lugs that are hard wired, I'm leaning NO. Get a new switch.
Could still use the same internal wiring.
thetantric: To use the 3 way for a series with THIS switch, you will have to cut those hard wired connections between the terminals. Then I would suggest taking a multimeter to the switch to map out what terminals are connected to what and confirm it is like Tux's pic, and get back to us in a new non-zombie thread.
I would +1 eddie's suggestion to just buy a new switch -- preferably the CRL or oak grigsby switch.
I think it is the same but different. The op would find a multimeter a great help though.
This diagram shows typical wiring and the links are shown.
Tux's pic looks pretty close, this is my diagram, its my first one, the black lines are black cables, the red lines are white cables, yellow is clumps of solder, one finger on the volume knob is bent back and soldered to its back. The blue is a capacitor on the tone knob[/URL][/IMG]