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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by RodeoTex, Mar 7, 2020.
It's coming along great!
Nice lines on this one .
I spent all of yesterday doing the border around the body.
I'm pretty disappointed that the blackening chemical didn't really take.
I also just weighed the guitar and all the main components. Came out at 8lb 9oz. I'll be doing some weight relief today. My target finished weight is 8-8.5 pounds.
Is that hand engraved or...???
I studied actual hand engraving for a couple of years, but this isn't really that.
Kind of my own quik n' dirty version. Taking into account my arthritis, tremor and failing sight.
Swiss cheese weight relief. Of course now my digital scale won't turn on so I have no idea how much weight was removed.
That engraving is going to be absolutely stunning when you get it darkened and highlighted!!!
I was always fascinated by the engraving process. When I used to do the knife shows there were always some engravers and scrimshaw artists displaying their skills.
One company in particular (can't recall their name) always had a display set up with the tools they sold, which were mainly power engravers that ran off of compressed air. They offered engraving classes too.
I got the engraved parts darkened finally.
It really shows my sloppiness and mistakes.
Still my inspiration
I know we are all our own worst critics and all that, and I know that people who are skilled in a technique can see many things that lay-people can't, but I wish I could engrave like that!
Wow Tex. That guitar is really coming along. The more I see it, the more I’m loving that shape. And your engraving work looks fine to me!
I think it's cool and it's yours. Don't hit on yourself.
That's what makes it art or craft, it is the Human Being in the project instead of the machine.
Is the engraving a stamp or hand drawn? Looks great either way!
I did a quick wash coat of thinned lacquer based sanding sealer.
I like the color now so I don't think it needs to be tinted at all.
My 5hp air compressor died during my last project and this 18v tiny one just isn't going to do it.
... which brings me to this decision:
I've got 2 cans of this that I've been wanting to try. I looked all over the internet trying to find a definite answer to whether 2K is comparable with lacquer or not. Didn't find any sure answer.
We're gonna find out today.
I guess there's time to sand it all off if it doesn't go well.
Besides, I can't resist something named Clear Glamour.
The idea of having the finish completed within 2 days is also very appealing.
I can't say that SprayMax Glamour Gloss is compatible with lacquer, but I've used it many times over enamel with no problems and great results .
Do make sure that you use a proper respirator, and I'd suggest spraying outdoors away from people and critters. That stuff is a true 2K and has some serious fumes.
I used SMGG on lots of motorcycle tins. Very durable and very gas-resistant, if not gas-proof. You can build up the coats and get a real "deep" looking finish.
After you punch in the "button" on the bottom of the can, make sure you shake the piss out of it to thoroughly mix the 2 components. As I recall, after the initial shaking - let the can set for 30 minutes and then shake it real good again before using. That 30 minute wait allows the 2 parts to combine and start to react.
I'd start out with very light mist coats on top of the lacquer, gradually building to full wet coats.
It has a pretty good pot-life, but if you get in a jam and need to halt your spraying, you can refrigerate the can overnight, and then warm it back up the next day and still use it .
It's easy to use and has surprisingly good pressure and a good spray tip too .
edit: I see that you just did a thin wash coat with sanding sealer. I think you'll be OK going over that with the SMGG, especially if you start out with the real light mist coats. The mist coats will take a set quickly and help provide some protection to the undercoat before you start laying on heavier coats.
That is looking great! I've used Spraymax 2k over lacquer once, and it started to lift around exposed edges (control cavity, neck pocket, etc.). However, I put it over a metallic lacquer that I couldn't scuff sand. Make sure you scuff it a little with some 600 or something.
Thanks Old Wrench and Ripthorn.
I started applying a few coats today. It stays tacky for some time, but today is not ideal for spraying anyway.
Sillyass me went to town today to pick up a spray respirator. There is no hope of even getting those within the next month.
Also, Silly me again, see that knot on the back? I automatically put the good side to the front before routing. Certainly wrong on this one. Oh well, I'll live with it.
When I did my Telecoustic way back when, I totally got my front and back around the wrong way! Ended up spraying and rubbing all sorts of different stains and paint bursts on it to try and cover it up.
I think that knot adds a little character !
edit: SMGG takes a little time to cure if the temp is down, but it will get hard!
As others tell me...only you will notice them. And that actually brings up a interesting point. Perfection created by computer controlled equipment....let me just say it.....is boring. Many of us (maybe those of us that are older) see the value in holding something that was produced by hand by another person. The cookie from your grandmother's oven is better than the best precision mixed, cut and baked, packed, shipped cookie from any cookie maker. You are making a GREAT cookie!
As George says be careful with this. I use 2K Simtec the top coat Fender uses on some of their factory guitars. I love the finish it is fantastic. If you are mixing your own you can mix in trans tint dyes and get fantastic finishes. I have always used a good mask with good filters when I sprayed but would sometimes go back in to look at the piece after about 30 minutes with not fumes visible without the mask. I actually got a reaction from this or the cleaners I was using...something in my process. Now I use rubber gloves and always wear the mask when in my painting area until the next day.
Here is my thread on the Simtec product. Also on Simtec the instructions say to wait 45 between coats to let the thinners gas off or it will cause gas off bubbles.....which it does....So check your instructions. I have found that if you do get a run if you let it cure for 30 minutes you can lightly sand with 400 grit paper and sand the drip/run down. LIGHTLY sand. The instructions may also say that if you want to recoat after it has cured...like the next day you will have to sand with 220 grit or so...not 400 or 800 in order allow for a mechanical bond. It is not like nitro in that.