2010 TDPRI $210 Challenge - Roll the Dice

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jlock1028

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Well back to working on the neck for a while. I started contouring the back of the neck using a 3/8th roundover bit. As this is the first neck build attempted it seemed appropriate to try multiple tools to see which felt and worked best for me. First up: the spindle sander, then the belt sander and then the random pattern sander (off and on). The rasp and files actually worked very well and were not nearly as time consuming as one might think. The majority of the shaping was accomplished using these tools. In fact, using the hand sander created a dip in the middle of the neck (I’m certain it was the sander and not the operator). The wood file proved the easiest way to level this error out.
 

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jlock1028

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The neck at the nut is .89" and at the 12th fret is .99 after this rough sanding. I used a 9.5 in radius block to radius the fret board.
 

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Jack Wells

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Interesting. The guy building that one piece Stratocaster neck is using the same anchor I used in a one piece neck thread I started a few months before his blog. Maybe he reads this forum.............. or maybe he doesn't.

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KnurledNut.jpg


However if building a one piece heel adjust neck, I think an anchor like this one on the Warmoth vintage style truss rod is a much better idea. It could be easily made by taking a short piece of 3/8 in. steel rod. Drill it ...... tap it and file notches in it.

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WarmothVintageTrussRodAnchor.jpg
 

jlock1028

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Just grinding along!

I was able to get some more done today. After applying several coats of true oil to the body I will let it sit for a few days before installing the electronics. Given the “rustic” look intended from the beginning I am very happy with the result so far. I still would like to know about the uneven staining for future builds without a rustic theme. I had sanded extensively (so I thought) or is it just the wood that absorbed the stain differently? Just curious.
 

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jlock1028

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Here you can see the neck has had the fret slots and nut slot cut in. The nut slot is way thick but the bone blanks I have are even thicker so no harm done. Now I’m ready (or not) to install the frets. I pre-cut, then hand radius the frets slightly and then lay them upon the neck.
 

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jlock1028

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Using the fret press caul to install the frets.
 

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Colt W. Knight

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It seems to me the stain was absorbed unevenly across the body. The two pictures in post 41 and the picture below show it. The sides of the body also have a couple of "stripes" of lighter shading particularly around the contours. Does this indicate more sanding was needed?

Getting a pure uniform staining appearance is actually more of chore than most people assume. Varying grain patterns will absorb stain at different rates, and if you wipe it on a little heavy here or there will reflect on the final result. You can actually buy stain toners to put on the wood before staining which limits stains absorbtion and you get a much more uniform appearence.
 

Colt W. Knight

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Jack I bought those same brass anchors to make single action truss rods because that is simply what I could find at Lowes parts bin box. Then I read your thread and saw you suggested those warmoth deals instead. I have been doing as you suggest, tapping and filing a rod to create a similiar rod anchor.
 

jlock1028

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My wife put her considerable bargain hunting skills to good use this week. Our neighbor down the street is remodeling what appears to be his fireplace (a lot of bricks) and placed out by the road a 4”x 9”x 7’ mantle/beam. My wife insisted we pick it up immediately because it would “make a lot of bodies”. I think she’s right…it wound up being about 18 board feet of what might be pine. Gotta love it when the wife approves of the hobbies.

Put this free wood with the hardware and pickups retained after selling the neck and body of a MIM Tele. Bought the Tele at the local music store a few weeks back, sold the neck and body for $10 profit and kept the hardware and pickups. These two “acqusitions” make the next build virtually cost free.
 

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jlock1028

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Getting a pure uniform staining appearance is actually more of chore than most people assume. Varying grain patterns will absorb stain at different rates, and if you wipe it on a little heavy here or there will reflect on the final result. You can actually buy stain toners to put on the wood before staining which limits stains absorbtion and you get a much more uniform appearence.

Many Thanks! This is a great help. Jim
 

jlock1028

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A few more pictures to keep things moving. Time to drill the dice and attach them to the control plate. Nothing special here... just hold the dice with channel locks and mark the drill bit with tape to keep from drilling all the way through. I am using a control plate "as is" that was bought off ebay. This plate has the dime size pots (these will be changed at a later date) and the dice/knobs were drilled accordingly. Looks like a "natural".
 

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jlock1028

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Next up, the pickguard. I traced the body/pickup routed areas and then outlined the desired (half) pickguard shape. trimmed the outline from the paper and laid the rough cut on the guitar body to size it up. Glued it to 1/2" mdf preparing it for the bandsaw.
 

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jlock1028

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Next cut the mdf shape on the bandsaw and sanded the perimeter smooth. Attached the "bakelite" material to the mdf template and shaped it on the router, followed by using a 1/8" roundover bit
 

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jlock1028

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Must be my lucky day.

Look what just arrived. The Bill and Becky Keystones.
 

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jlock1028

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Lookin' good NICE pups!

Thanks, didn't think they would get here in time so I was excited when I found them in the mailbox.

Now I just had to lay them out to see what the finished product might look like. Keeping in mind that the neck is unstained and unfinished and might not even be used if the other one (with fretboard) is completed in time. Couldn't be happier with the neck pocket fit!

Brought my wife out to look at it and her first statement was "it's beautiful", but added shortly after, "but how will it sound?" Seems everybody is a critic!
 

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