2010 TDPRI $210 Challenge - Roll the Dice

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jlock1028

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and then rubbed it down a couple of times with denatured alcohol to lighten it up some.
 

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jlock1028

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What do I do with these voids?

There are a couple of voids in the knots of this body. Should I fill them with super glue, grain filler or something else? What is the best way to handle this?
 

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jlock1028

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Neck work

Time to start posting the neck work. This will be my first neck built from scratch. As such, it seems safer to have a plan b (and c). Plan B is this economy neck from GFS, just in case I am unable to complete my neck before the deadline.
 

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jlock1028

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Plan A is to complete a neck cut from this slab of maple. There is enough lumber to complete 4 necks. The plan for this neck is for it to be a one piece but minus the truss rod. I want to take it one step at a time...
 

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jlock1028

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If that goes well, and time permitting, I would like to try a second neck with the very rustic looking (heavy mineral stains) flamed maple using a non adjustable truss rod and fret board. There are three options on the fret board. Cocobolo, Bocote and a Rosewood board from stewmac. This would be the ideal option for the total rustic look that's planned.
 

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CJFearn

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There are a couple of voids in the knots of this body. Should I fill them with super glue, grain filler or something else? What is the best way to handle this?

Just leave 'em, it fits to the style and adds character! Also, you'll never get that stain sorted out if you put anything in there (unless your name is George Frank ;)).

This is going to be one beautiful guitar! That wood is just plain nice!!! All of it!
 

jlock1028

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4th neck option

After looking over the rest of the wood scattered around the garage I found a piece of flamed maple that would make a nice neck. I am listing all options as working on several necks at a time seems like the right thing to do (given my propensity for screw ups). All options other than the first will utilize a non adjustable truss rod from stewmac and fretboard. I will document the first one piece maple neck that I'm using to learn on until (if/when) another option is chosen.
 

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jlock1028

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This is the one piece plain maple slab that will be my first neck. Here we go, baby steps...
 

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jlock1028

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Shaping the headstock.
 

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jlock1028

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*note to self - When using the bandsaw to thin the headstock remember to leave thick enough to sand down. After rough sanding, the headstock is thinner than any other headstock measured, although the finish still needs to be accounted for. In the future, the spindle sander may be the best option for this work from the start?
 

jlock1028

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Read the directions first. Read...Them...First...

Roughing in the fret slots, spacing the position markers and installing the markers.

My 77 year old dad jumped in to hold the neck for me...can you tell he's a N.Y. Yankee fan? He is asked where ever he goes if he played for the Yankees (see the rings and watch), he answers they are World Series rings and he's in the hall of fame. What a joker.
 

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jlock1028

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Another note to self. Pay closer attention when drilling marker holes. Frets 17 and 19 are a little off, good thing this is a semi-practice neck. I say practice as the more mistakes made the more probable another option will be used.
 

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Dmann

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During this contest there has been some amazing things done with minimal tools, I even think I saw someone cutting a body out with a coping saw! I am much too lazy for that and certainly don’t have that much extra time. When first starting this hobby I wondered if it would be possible to obtain (enough) power tools to do the builds without breaking the bank, and searched the threads for ideas. Buying used (ebay etc.) seemed risky but buying new would require a couple thousand dollars minimum, which was not an option. Strangely enough, my wife turned me on to a reconditioned power tool store at an outlet mall. The following tools if bought new would have cost (from lowes, home depot) over $1500.00, but at the outlet store with a full year warranty was under $600.00. I don’t know if this is helpful but I highly recommend recon tools.

I have lots of reconditioned tools and have never had a problem with them.
 

Colt W. Knight

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The very best way to fill those voids is with a two part epoxy. That way it won't add funky colors to your already stained body. It will simply fill them in with an almost clear liquid. So the character of the knots is still there, but it wont allow moisture to settle in there and expand the cracks.
 

68thinline

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Another note to self. Pay closer attention when drilling marker holes. Frets 17 and 19 are a little off, good thing this is a semi-practice neck. I say practice as the more mistakes made the more probable another option will be used.

Don't worry. On my first build I put two side dots on the 10th fret instead of the 12th. Woops!

No one will ever mistake it for a real Fender. But it plays just fine.

The more mistakes the more you learn...
 

jlock1028

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The very best way to fill those voids is with a two part epoxy. That way it won't add funky colors to your already stained body. It will simply fill them in with an almost clear liquid. So the character of the knots is still there, but it wont allow moisture to settle in there and expand the cracks.

Thanks for the info. I filled them today with the two part epoxy...probably should have filled them a second time before using the grain filler as they seen to have settled in. As 68thinline just said, "the more mistakes you make the more you learn".
 

jlock1028

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Here are a couple of pictures of the grain filling process. I mixed the dyes directly into the grain filler instead of diluting them with alcohol first. The dyes used were, dark walnut, tobacco and orange.
 

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jlock1028

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I did this on a body bought on ebay and it turned out great.. I liked the way you could see the subtle hint of the colors used in the dyes (multiple browns, green, orange, and red). I mixed until about 99% of the granules dissolve in the filler then apply, followed by wiping down with a terry towel soaked in mineral spirits. This seems to dissipate and spread the remaining granules within the grain itself with a great effect. It’s visable to the naked eye but didn’t seem to come though in the photos
 

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jlock1028

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Another question.

It seems to me the stain was absorbed unevenly across the body. The two pictures in post 41 and the picture below show it. The sides of the body also have a couple of "stripes" of lighter shading particularly around the contours. Does this indicate more sanding was needed?
 

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