2010 TDPRI $210 Challenge - Roll the Dice

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jlock1028

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A bit late, but I’m in. I’m not completely sure which direction this build will go which is why there are a couple of different wood types shown. What is sure is that with my limited experience I will need plenty of help from the experts here, especially if I attempt a neck build (not sure about that yet). As a note on my prior experience…a year ago I barely knew which end of the screwdriver did what….really. With the help of all those posting on this forum I was able to complete one scratch build taking about 3 months.

Below are the required raw material pictures. At this point I believe the ash (3 middle boards) will be the ones used instead of the reclaimed pine on the right. The only thing sure to be incorporated in the build is the dice. Ebay listed some vintage bakelite dice confiscated from an illegal gambling joint on Jacksboro Hwy outside of Ft. Worth Texas in the ‘50’s (also posted were 3 magic beans). The dice pictured aren’t them…but I liked the story and the idea of using them as knobs.

I had many questions early on regarding the overall cost of tools used to complete a build. The tools used in this build along with the actual amount paid for them.

Here are the pictures:
 

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tuuur

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Welcome on board! The lumber looks pretty, and when you got the knobs, you got the most important bits of a git-tar, right?
Right!
 

jlock1028

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Thanks! At least having the knobs ensures on part of the build will be correct and functional.

Should be able to get started on the body this weekend and post more pictures as I go.....
 

jlock1028

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Well, the most difficult part is over, deciding what direction to take the build. I’ve decided to use the ash lumber, stained with a medium walnut/tobacco stain. I will also use the same stain in the grain filler. I will leave the pickup cavities open using only a half pickguard and a neck p/up without the chrome cover. This along with the vintage dice should give this tele a somewhat “rustic” look (not reliced). Here are the first pictures. Cutting the ash into 3 pieces, costing $6.66 purchased enough for 3 bodies @ $19.99 from Ebay. Using the jointer to clean the edges for gluing and choosing the 3 (of 10) to be used in this project.
 

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jlock1028

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Here are some of the parts I will be using. The two sets of pickups shown probably will not be used unless the build has a cost overrun. The set with the chrome neck cover totals $ 10.00 purchased on Ebay some time ago. The other set is used GFS overwounds. I’ve ordered a set of Keystones and hope to use them if all other costs remain in line. The loaded control plate purchased from Ebay at $8.50, blank nut at $2.00, neck plate at $1.00, bridge at $14.00, ferrules at $6.00, output jack at $2.00, vintage dice $4.50, strap knobs at $2.00, Bakelite for the pickguard at $1.00. These, along with the ash and the Keystones for $57.00 equals $104.66.

As you can see this is not a McGiver build. More of a Radar O’Reily buy/swap/bargain build.
 

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jlock1028

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The final posting for the day, and possibly the week, as my job requires travel. The first picture is the 3 pieces of ash being glued. While that was drying I started roughing out the neck templates (including one for a strat).
 

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jlock1028

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I've only been able to get a little bit more done so far this week. In the prior clamping photo's you can see that I had two boards clamped to the top and bottom of the ash to keep it flat...you can see in the following photo this didn't happen. It seems the three peices of ash have shifted up and down requiring more planing than I had hoped for. The ash lumber before planing was 1.75 inches and after is 1.64. As I understand it, the standard size switch probably will not fit now.

Question...what is the best way to keep the wood from sliding when clamping and what are the best (and cheapest) shorter switches?
 

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jlock1028

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back again...finally

Here is the body after bandsawing. You can see where the 3 boards shifted. I also didn’t saw as close to the template lines as possible so I will use the spindle sander to get closer before using the router.
 

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jlock1028

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And then used the router....but not before checking the handy dandy router instruction (directional) card.
 

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jlock1028

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After the routing I then went back to the spindle sander to remove some burns and tear outs. A note to those living "up north"; the leaves you see in the backround are what is left after bagging 85 large yard bags of leaves so far this spring. It's the only time of year I regret having 8 oak trees on my property.
 

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motor_city_tele

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It's the only time of year I regret having 8 oak trees on my property.

I love ours too. in a couple weeks it will be a great big hand casting a cool shadow over the entire yard. squirrels love them too. I bet there is a dozen that live there.

tootles - jb
 

jlock1028

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The dreaded router (for me anyway)

Well, it's time to move to the routing phase. As this was only the second body I've used a plunge router on I had my concerns about getting it right. On my first and only other scratch build I had several...shall we say mishaps (and I'm not counting the numerous templates that were ruined). Before routing I used the drill press to "hog" out a lot of the wood and then used the router.
 

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jlock1028

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What's that control plate hiding?

It seem I tore a chunk out of the control cavity...again, I did this the last time too.
 

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jlock1028

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My only other build

As I have mentioned my only other build a couple of times now, maybe I should post a couple of pictures. Although I didn't find this forum until April/May last year the contest threads were the catalyst that encouraged me to attempt one myself. Without the many helpful members most of us noobs would still be wondering which end of the screwdriver did what. Many thanks!
 

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