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Discussion in 'Stratocaster Discussion Forum' started by Kmaxbrady, Jul 5, 2020.
Not so much interested in which is better or why, just curious which is most popular.
I said 6, because that'a all I have. had a 2 point once for a short time only, and if I needed a Strat I would be tempted to try a 2 point. The 6 point is a pretty terrible design really. But it works. I deck my trems so 2 point may not effect any transfer of vibration... That would be the only possible downside I can think of, and I don't think it's much either way.
I'd like to see the 2 point have matching radii, instead of a knife edge though.
I've wondered if the G&L is different...?
I prefer and have had several that have all been 6. Before there was an opportunity for a 2-point there was my '59. My cousin has had a 2-point custom shop for years and years and I have played it a bunch and it was just fine too. Maybe I'll throw a 2-point part-er someday for grins.
I have a 6 point on my FCS and a 2 point on my American Standard. I don't notice a difference. But what I really like is the chrome cover over the saddles on my FCS.
I think a 2-point trem is as close to objectively "better" as you can get when it comes to guitars, especially since a popular way of setting up 6-screw trems so as to avoid problems is to loosen the inner 4 screws such that the trem pivots on the outer two, i.e. a two-point trem. What we call a two-point trem now is just an end run around that whole process to (essentially) the same conclusion, only more intentional and cleaner.
Couldn’t you just remove the middle 4 completely?
I can't be sure. What I remember reading seemed to make a point of only loosening the middle four, not removing them. So I assume they still play some structural role, even if they're not the pivot points?
The only six-screw trem I've had is on my Squier Strat, my first electric. I "graduated" to my other Strat (with a two-point) before I ever started messing with trem set-ups, so I have no first-hand experience with it.
2 point is 10 to 5 so far. Does that seem like an accurate representation?
Any functional six point is a two point actually (you have to almost completely loosen the four inner screws to make a six point perform flawlessly) so I vote for two.
because i don't use a trem and always seat them flat on the body i can fasten the 6 screws so i make some kind of top mount bridge with a wood block behind the trem block
Do you use the cover? When I got my tele I started playing with the cover on and then started playing my strat with the cover on
I find it comfortable, I also don’t really do any palm muting
As far as the trem question 6 point for me
I just block the trem like Clapton ...
A Bigsby I can live with ...
I prefer the look and feel of the vintage bridge, but in use there's no difference.
I've had both and never really noticed much difference but I not v good with a whammy bar so I always end up decking the trem.
Interesting question about comfort and palm muting. I don’t palm mute. What muting I do is mostly my thumb killing the E or A strings. I play mostly finger style so palm muting isn’t necessary or even possible. The big thing for me is that I like the way the cover looks on my FCS Strat. I’d like a cover for my FSE Strat but I can’t find one with a dark chrome finish. Bright chrome clashes with the rest of the hardware.
Given that most 2 points have a larger post and an insert, I would be wary of fatiguing the wood in front of the small screw that would be carrying not only half of the string tension, but half of the Spring tension as well. The 2 point was developed as an attempt to remedy to the 6 point, along with the knife edge on the bridge plate.
old skool six screw version
I'm not much of a vibrato guy at all-- I can maybe be talked into a Kahler, as it somehow "feels" better (definitely smoother) than pretty much anything else I have ever tried.
But if I'm forced at gunpoint to use a vibrato of a traditional "Fender" design, I'd choose a 2-point.
I play with a thumb pick so I don’t really Palm mute either
I’ve been playing with the cover long enough now that a tele feels kind of odd without one
I like 'em both; I didn't vote because there's no third "it depends" choice. Some six-screw units work great, and some are problematic. Some two-screw units are great, and some are not so great.
The important things to me are (1) they operate smoothly and quietly, and (2) they don't have threads on the bar as their attachment method. The threaded bar is the only poor design feature of the original Strat.
On my Strats that have the traditional threaded bar, I enlarge the bar hole in the bridge plate to 3/8", slice off the end of the block, and install a Floyd arm. The replacement arm kit costs a measly $12 and has an adjustable clutch that does not wear out. There's no need for a little spring in the hole, no need to wrap Teflon tape around the bar, and no worries about the bar snapping off in the block. No nasty grease stains in the guitar case either.
Removing material from the block does not change he tone. This: