1. Win a Broadcaster or one of 3 Teles! The annual Supporting Member Giveaway is on. To enter Click Here. To see all the prizes and full details Click Here. To view the thread about the giveaway Click Here.

1x12 speaker cab - need to build fast and cheap

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by jefcon1, Sep 14, 2010.

  1. jefcon1

    jefcon1 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    465
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    I have an extra G12M-70 Modern Lead that needs to be in a cabinet to go with my Peavey Special 130 for an upcoming gig. The Peavey already has a G12 in it since the Scorpion was blown years ago.

    I am financially broke (not figuratively) so I cannot afford to buy an unloaded or loaded cabinet (that would be nice). Nor can I afford to buy new power tools, wood, speaker grill cloth, tolex, or any hardware or wood working classes. This may be a one and done affair, but I'd like the cabinet to be able to survive being moved to and from the gig and hopefully it could sit beneath my amp for a few months (or years) while i get my financial life in order. Possibly more dismal than my money situation are my wood working skills. Any kind guidance or suggestions would be much appreciated as well as any links or pictures.

    Here is what I have:

    Power Tools
    1- Table Saw
    2- Circular Saw
    3- Jig Saw
    4- Drill
    5- Belt Sander
    6- Vibrating Sander

    Supplies:
    1- approximately 30 linear feet of 12" deep shelving wood (pine I imagine)
    2- 4x8 sheet of 3/8 plywood
    3- 12 feet of 1x2
    4- Wood screws
    5- wood glue
    6- Old t-shirts (grill cloth?)
    7- Old leather belt (handle)
    8- Zip cord wire
    9 - Old 1/4" jack
    10- various colors of spray paint.

    Amy I fooling myself or can I build a cabinet out of this? Or both?
     
  2. bdgregory

    bdgregory Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,226
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2008
    Location:
    Virginia
    you have all you need. I'd suggest butt joints for the corners since you're short on time and lack the tools for dovetail; although you could do box joints using your table saw if you want to spend the time. You may want to use the 1x2 in the corners for reinforcement. Use plenty of glue and screws. Sand it and paint it when you're finished. If you can find some old window screen it may make a better grill cloth . . . or go without.
     
  3. jefcon1

    jefcon1 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    465
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    Butt joints are a certainty. I might get fancy enough to sink the screw heads and cover them with wood putty... maybe.

    I do have some window screen. I would go without but I have a 4 year old boy and a speaker cone is a mighty strong temptation for a 4 year old holding a crayon.

    Is 3/8" plywood strong enough to hold the speaker or should I double up?

    Thanks for your help.
     
  4. HOBBSTER01

    HOBBSTER01 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    59
    Posts:
    4,168
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2007
    Location:
    Ringgold, Ga.
    I would double up, but that's just me.
    You can buy burlap at walmart for a couple bucks and it will work for grill cloth.
    you can also buy dowel plugs to cover the screws at Ace Hardware for about 2 bucks per pack of 25.
     
  5. muchxs

    muchxs Doctor of Teleocity

    Posts:
    13,171
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2004
    Location:
    New England
    3/8" ply is plenty for a speaker baffle. You'd want to go thicker with a 2x12" due to the necessary geometry of the cabinet / baffle. There's plenty of support in a 1x12".

    I'd use real grille cloth or one of those cheap-o Radio Shack stamped steel grilles intended for autosound bass boxes.
     
  6. bdgregory

    bdgregory Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,226
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2008
    Location:
    Virginia
    IMO 3/8 is fine for 10" or smaller, but for a 12" I'd double up or reinforce it with pine 1x2. Without it you'll get some unpredictable and likely unwanted tone coloration/distortion
     
  7. jefcon1

    jefcon1 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    465
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    I'll see how it feels with a one piece baffle and go from there. Since its not going to be grooved in place it won't be too much trouble to add another piece if necessary.

    The burlap, dowel plugs and sub-woofer grills are all good ideas, but I'm making this out of what's already on hand. If it looks like something worth keeping I might add some more legitimate parts down the road. Besides, rusty window screen might be just the statement I need to make with my guitar rig.:lol:
     
  8. celeste

    celeste Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    59
    Posts:
    2,905
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2006
    Location:
    Maryland
    My favorite 1x12 cabinet

    http://www.ax84.com/static/corecabinets/AX84_1x12_Cab_09.08.03.pdf

    Designed to have the modal response of a 4x12. It is big, but works well with a wide range of speakers and can be built or open back (anything less then 70% coverage on the back is open back) closed or ported, if drop tuning is your thing.

    Here are two I never seem to finish. I added enough on top to house a recessed handle and patch cables.
    http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d179/CeCeHall/DSCN0338reduced.jpg
     
  9. celeste

    celeste Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    59
    Posts:
    2,905
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2006
    Location:
    Maryland
    I forgot to mention, I would use rabbit joints, not pure but joints. You can do them on your table saw. They give the joint a bit more area, so more strength.
     
  10. Mat

    Mat Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    309
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2003
    Location:
    Australia
    I find butt joints with small dowels works really well.

    Big glue joint along the butt and then 6 - 8 dowels provides mucho strength.
     
  11. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    25,985
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Location:
    Osaka, Japan
    I have built exactly one speaker cabinet, but I read a lot! :lol:

    I'll just tell you from my reading and little experience:
    Most people say that with a closed back cab, "size matters", but not so much with an open back, so I'd build it open-backed and small. It'll be sturdier that way. A 15"x15"x12" box would be pretty sturdy even with 3/8" plywood, I reckon.

    I recessed the front and rear baffles in my box instead of making them flush with the side edges, partly to help protect the speaker and partly to make it stronger by decreasing the distance between front and rear baffles.

    I used .75"x.75" and 1x2's to mount the baffles and to reinforce the corners of the box. Probably much better than screwing into the ends of plywood, and that way you can bolt the front baffle on instead of gluing. Also, if you mount the reinforcements before assembling the sides, it'll help you to get the corners square.;)
     
  12. jefcon1

    jefcon1 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    465
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    Thanks for all the great suggestions! Especially recessing the baffles.

    Speaking of "size matters" I have a cabinet that my dad built in the 60's that was supposed to be a sub woofer for that time period. It's a huge closed back cabinet with a variable front port. It stands about 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep. It has a single 12" speaker in it right now with a torn cone. I might try the G12 in that before I start building a new cabinet just to see if sounds good enough for the show. I have kept the cabinet all these years with thoughts of making it a 4x10, 4x12 or single 15 guitar cabinet. Sentimental reasons have kept me from altering it so far, but replacing the 12" speaker wouldn't disturb it too much. I might give that a try this evening and see where that gets me.
     
  13. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    25,985
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Location:
    Osaka, Japan
    That's a lot of box.:eek: Definitely the fast and cheap solution though. Plus you can pack all your other gear inside of it.;)
     
  14. jefcon1

    jefcon1 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    465
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
  15. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    25,985
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Location:
    Osaka, Japan
    How did it sound?

    My dad passed away when I was 20; if I had something like this of his I think I'd get a kick out of making it useful again and bringing it along on a gig.:)
     
  16. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

    Posts:
    25,985
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Location:
    Osaka, Japan
    In case you decide to slap something together,

    this is a glimpse inside the cab I made, showing the reinforcement and recessed baffle:
    cabbuild.jpg
     
  17. Duke

    Duke Tele-Meister

    Age:
    59
    Posts:
    198
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2007
    Location:
    Hanover, Ontario Canada
    NO NO NO! This will suck your sound up like a sponge. Believe it or not burlap at about $1.50 a yard works great as long as you lacquer it well. See my pics.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. mort

    mort TDPRI Member

    Posts:
    14
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2010
    Location:
    Florida
    Awesome.

    I built a makeshift 1x12 for an impromptu project once in about an hour or two. It looked like hell but did the job.

    Here's another one I did that I spent a little more time on. This was my first, and so far only, attempt at box joints. Took a mighty strong belt sander to straighten it out :D

    That grill cloth cost me a buck at a thrift store. It's actually an inside out couch cushion cover.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Bohdan

    Bohdan Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    216
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2010
    Location:
    Ontario
    +1 on the burlap. I've done that a couple times, i'll post pics soon
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.