1st Tele build, finishing schedule

[Beebe]

will Naptha take it out? I have a knot on the back I want to expose too.

I got everything I needed to run a trial on a piece of scrap for the first step at least. I want to take a look at the grain after the Sanding Sealer. Not 100% sold on the blonde. I may want to keep this thing au naturel

View attachment 1057151

If you decide to go natural: sealing with amber shellac and then rubbing on Linseed oil, Tung oil, or oil varnish is a classic finishing method that is hard to mess up and hard to beat.

Or the reverse, you can fill the grain by oiling first and block sanding the oil on the surface.
This creates a wood dust oil slurry that can fill the grain. And then spray nitro or shellac over the oil finish.

An amber tint in clear nitro would also look great.

 

[JPTeleinNC]

You can get a very good idea of how your body would look with a clear lacquer finish by simply wetting it by wiping it down with naptha

I am going to see if I can get the filler out of the knots today, and I will try the Naptha

So your idea to keep it translucent is a good one. You can find some nice examples of knotty wood finishes if you search for Knotty Pine guitars. The knotty wood looks great with oil and/or tinted clear finishes. IMHO.

I'll also go against the crowd and say, go ahead and start finishing on the body before practicing. Any steps that you mess up can be sanded back and will only give you a flatter surface when you redo it. Plus its a $40 knotty body, so have fun. Just mask off the inside of the cavities if you go this route. Your mistakes will build up in there if you don't.

I'm leaning more and more toward natural

exactly my thinking, $40 I am not going to be too depressed if I screw it up. Now that I have the scrap, I might as well give it a practice run

People say the knots add character and that’s fine if a “rustic look” is your thing.

it is. Knots, mismatched grain don't bother me. They add to the flavor.

 

[bullfrogblues]

I usually fill knots and cracks with Z-Poxy and when sanded back is quite invisible.

My only attempt at butterscotch was with Reranch spray lacquer and I didn't really like the color. I liked how the grain and knots showed through on the pine body, though.

But my favorite right now is just amber shellac as toner with matte clear on the pine body.

 

[Sea Devil]

I went back and looked at the body again. That knot's pretty close to the edge; on most old Fender blond finishes, the sides are more opaque than the front and back in order to hide joints and potentially ugly end grain. The opacity fades from the sides to the front and back almost like a reverse sunburst and is very subtle. I think that's the part that's most worth practicing. It takes a sure, steady, and confident hand and a good understanding of how your finish behaves, room to either turn the piece of move around it, and an observant eye.

If you do that fade just right, the knot will be partially obscured, its inner edge slyly peeking out from under the more opaque finish. That would be a good look.

I like to make rigid cardboard masks in exactly the shape of the body and shoot past them, and past the body, when doing fades. That way any larger drops land on the mask and only the more finely aerosolized, mistier part of the nozzle's output ends up on the guitar.

Here are some quick sketches of techniques I've used. I find that the last one is really useful, since all of the overspray tends to miss the guitar.

These methods work well for building a slightly thicker finish on the edges with undercoats and, if needed, opaque colors as well, not just for fades.

 

[Sea Devil]

Here's one of my cardboard masks. There's very little paint on it; most of what hits it is overspray and pretty much falls off. But you can see a few dozen ugly spats of color that would really have messed up the finish if they'd hit the guitar.

 

[JPTeleinNC]

But my favorite right now is just amber shellac as toner with matte clear on the pine body.

that! wow! that is beautiful. what amber shellac did you use? that finish looks like fine whiskey that drinks just as smooth as it looks.

I went back and looked at the body again. That knot's pretty close to the edge; on most old Fender blond finishes, the sides are more opaque than the front and back in order to hide joints and potentially ugly end grain. The opacity fades from the sides to the front and back almost like a reverse sunburst and is very subtle. I think that's the part that's most worth practicing. It takes a sure, steady, and confident hand and a good understanding of how your finish behaves, room to either turn the piece of move around it, and an observant eye.

after I exposed the knots, I'm 100% sure I am going with a natural to honey/amber finish. I appreciate you explaining that though. Any extra knowledge I can get will be helpful. This won't be my last build

I removed the fill from the knots with an exacto knife, a toothbrush and some Naptha. They are pretty deep. I am going to have to fill them with epoxy or resin because no amount of lacquer is going to fill those holes. Going to start researching. I like the look of what would be the natural finish, but I would like it more if it was a little more amber or honey

To me, ^ those pics look so much better as to what was before

It looks like latex drywall spackle was used there which would be easily removed if wetted and wiped away.

It was drywall spackle

 

[stratisfied]

that! wow! that is beautiful. what amber shellac did you use? that finish looks like fine whiskey that drinks just as smooth as it looks.

after I exposed the knots, I'm 100% sure I am going with a natural to honey/amber finish. I appreciate you explaining that though. Any extra knowledge I can get will be helpful. This won't be my last build

I removed the fill from the knots with an exacto knife, a toothbrush and some Naptha. They are pretty deep. I am going to have to fill them with epoxy or resin because no amount of lacquer is going to fill those holes. Going to start researching. I like the look of what would be the natural finish, but I would like it more if it was a little more amber or honey
View attachment 1057899
View attachment 1057900
To me, ^ those pics look so much better as to what was before

It was drywall spackle

That's what I thought. The vinyl latex variety doesn't dissolve readily and you have to pick it out and toothbrush it with solvent to completely remove it. The body looks nice in that style of natural finish. If you don't want to spend a lot of money filling the knots, the twin-tube syringe of 5 minute epoxy is an easy fill in those knots. It has a slight amber/clear when cured and will look fine in those splits.

If you're looking for a satin/semi finish that is easy to apply, I'd recommend MinWax Wiping Polyurethane. Pre-stain the body with Minwax Natural (which replicates your wetted wood pic) and then apply the polyurethane. If you wipe on thin multiple layers, you can stop at any point between deep grain and filled smooth as matte glass. It is very forgiving and you need nothing more than a piece of folded, guality paper towel to apply. It takes around 2 hrs for a thin coat to dry completely so applying multiple coats in a day id pretty easy.

I avoid paste grain fillers as they change the look of the wood. The natural adds a creamy color to the grain and the darker ones add too much dark drama for my taste. I would much rather apply multiple coats of polyurethane as a filler/sealer/final finish even if it takes a bit longer. Even when spraying lacquer as a finish coat, I use polyurethane as my grain filler.

I've posted this before, but here is a vid in real time of me applying MinWax Wipe-On Poly on a laminated gunstock, 2 and a half minutes from start to finish including de-nibbing the prior coat w. a green scotchbrite, tack cloth wipe-down, finish application and a few seconds of inspecting the applied finish.

 

[old wrench]

There is one thing that you might want to look into and address before finishing the body

Whoever did the routing and drilling on the body didn't quite finish the job

On the back side where the string-through ferrules go, it looks like there are ~ 1/8" dia. holes drilled instead of the larger diameter holes required to recess the string ferrules

Depending on what type of ferrules you use - Fender vintage type, or one of the modern types - you'll need to drill either 5/16", or 5/16" with an additional light 3/8" counter-bore, or a metric diameter hole to accept the ferrules

When drilling those string-through ferrule holes, I always drill the largest diameter hole for the ferrule first, and then follow up by drilling the smaller diameter through-hole for the string path second - It's far easier to keep the holes centered that way, especially when you are drilling through an inconsistent material like wood where a drill bit likes to wander a bit

Because those six ferrule holes are so close together, unfortunately even a slight deviation from a centered spacing really shows up


If you think you might have trouble keeping those holes centered - you could make up a simple drilling jig out of some scraps or odds&ends of plywood or even some 3/4" thick wood

What you would do is accurately replicate and lay out that same string-through pattern on your template material and then drill it out using a bit that matches the large ferrule diameter

Then clamp down your template on the backside of the body so it's centered over the existing holes, and let the template guide your drill bit to drill the ferrule holes in your body


Another option I've seen is using a one-piece string-through plate instead of six separate ferrules

.

 

[Beebe]

There is one thing that you might want to look into and address before finishing the body

Whoever did the routing and drilling on the body didn't quite finish the job

On the back side where the string-through ferrules go, it looks like there are ~ 1/8" dia. holes drilled instead of the larger diameter holes required to recess the string ferrules

Depending on what type of ferrules you use - Fender vintage type, or one of the modern types - you'll need to drill either 5/16", or 5/16" with an additional light 3/8" counter-bore, or a metric diameter hole to accept the ferrules

When drilling those string-through ferrule holes, I always drill the largest diameter hole for the ferrule first, and then follow up by drilling the smaller diameter through-hole for the string path second - It's far easier to keep the holes centered that way, especially when you are drilling through an inconsistent material like wood where a drill bit likes to wander a bit

Because those six ferrule holes are so close together, unfortunately even a slight deviation from a centered spacing really shows up


If you think you might have trouble keeping those holes centered - you could make up a simple drilling jig out of some scraps or odds&ends of plywood or even some 3/4" thick wood

What you would do is accurately replicate and lay out that same string-through pattern on your template material and then drill it out using a bit that matches the large ferrule diameter

Then clamp down your template on the backside of the body so it's centered over the existing holes, and let the template guide your drill bit to drill the ferrule holes in your body


Another option I've seen is using a one-piece string-through plate instead of six separate ferrules

.

You can consider a top load bridge as well, with which you wouldn't have to install rear ferrules.

There is very little space between the rear holes and any inconsistencies tend to be noticeable. Early Fenders even came from the Factory with wonky rear ferrules. (Edit: Obviously I didn't read the post I'm quoting thoroughly, as it already states this clearly)

Finish can crack around them during install, so you often need to heat the ferrules with a soldering iron to melt them in at the perfect temperature to not boil the finish around them.

The thin areas between the holes tend to get sanded down a little bit further than other areas with anything but a solid sanding block. Plus pine is easy to compress, and I feel like these thin areas tend to compress down with pine as well.

I also enjoy the slightly slinkier feel and slightly smoother tone of a top load bridge. (Edit: just don't use strings with colorful rings on the ends, or it'll look a little funny).

But if you decide to install rear ferrules, here's a jig that might help:

Telecaster Vintage/modern Thru-body Ferrule Installation Guide - Etsy

This Guitars item by drgjlambLuthierStuff has 200 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Ripley, WV. Listed on Feb 26, 2023

www.etsy.com

 

[JPTeleinNC]

Whoever did the routing and drilling on the body didn't quite finish the job

Not lost on me. I have been putting it off and avoiding it. Now I realize this will have to be done sooner rather than later

There is very little space between the rear holes and any inconsistencies tend to be noticeable. Early Fenders even came from the Factory with wonky rear ferrules. (Edit: Obviously I didn't read the post I'm quoting thoroughly, as it already states this clearly)

slightly out of alignment holes would not bother me. I will look into that jig

looks like I need to buy a bridge to either make or have the etsy jig work

 

[bullfrogblues]

that! wow! that is beautiful. what amber shellac did you use? that finish looks like fine whiskey that drinks just as smooth as it looks.

I'm really sorry, I misspoke about the finish of this guitar. I've done quite a few recently with amber shellac that my mind said I used it here, also. Not the case.
For this guitar I used a blend of several Transtint dyes mixed in alcohol and sprayed on before the matte clear.
Again, apologies for my mistake.

 

[JPTeleinNC]

I'm really sorry, I misspoke about the finish of this guitar. I've done quite a few recently with amber shellac that my mind said I used it here, also. Not the case.
For this guitar I used a blend of several Transtint dyes mixed in alcohol and sprayed on before the matte clear.
Again, apologies for my mistake.

questions
1. what matte clear did you use?
2. do you find that alcohol based dyes work better than stain?
3. Did you use anything to seal the body prior to the matte clear or was it alcohol based tint then matte clear and done?

 

[bullfrogblues]

questions
1. what matte clear did you use?
2. do you find that alcohol based dyes work better than stain?
3. Did you use anything to seal the body prior to the matte clear or was it alcohol based tint then matte clear and done?

Well damn, I misspoke again. I said matte and should have said satin. Almost the same.
I just used a can of Minwax clear satin polyurethane in a rattle can. Looks great to me.
I much prefer using dyes instead of stains. they penetrate better, sometimes the stains just sit on top of the wood. The alcohol/dye mix was my only sealer, so it was just that mix for toner, a light sand and then the clear, and done!

 

[bullfrogblues]

Just so you can see, these two bodies were toned with Bullseye amber shellac and cleared with Summit Racing automitive urethane clears. One gloss the other satin. both guitars made of pine. I love the tones of the shellac on some woods.

 

[JPTeleinNC]

Just so you can see, these two bodies were toned with Bullseye amber shellac and cleared with Summit Racing automitive urethane clears. One gloss the other satin. both guitars made of pine. I love the tones of the shellac on some woods.
View attachment 1058166

gorgeous. appreciate the insight.

 

[JPTeleinNC]

Update: I drilled my ferrule holes. I made a jig from the ashtray bridge I picked up. pretty happy with the results

I've tested out the epoxy on my scrap board too. it worked well. It didn't fill the void completely, but when I sanded it down, it all filled in and is flat. It darkened the wood around the void too. A little. You would barely notice it, so I am going to have to be careful when I use it on the body. Still wavering on finishes. I'm 99.9% I am going to dye (amber)and seal with Shellac in a 1lb cut, then it's just a matter of Poly or Nitro over it.

 

[JPTeleinNC]

I took to my scrap board with my shellac today. (I am glad I listened to you guys about the scrap piece.) I put multiple coats of a 1lb dewaxed blonde shellac cut tinted with StewMac Vintage Amber. I sanded down with 0000 steel wool between coats, and I found shellac so easy to work with, and over all I think it came out great, but not completely happy with the color. I am color blind but it looks too yellow. My wife says it looks like aged pine floors. Anyways, does it look too yellow to guys? is the answer to cut the mixture with something with some red in it like tobacco brown? Light spots are just the grain. It's not the greatest piece of scrap Alder ever

 

[Pete_from_PGW]

Interesting comment from your wife, because shellac used to be used for finishing wood floors. I didn't see in there any resting time for the nitro, which you will want to do because of the shrinking. Also not too much lacquer per day. This is what I have done for my acoustics:

Sealer
1 x coat nitro
Grain filler
Wait one day
sand back grain filer to what you want
4 x coats nitro
wait one day
4 x coats nitro
Wait 2 weeks
level sand with 220 grit (spot fill any divits)
4-5 x coats nitro
Wait 4 weeks (some people wait up to 2 months)
sand & buff

While I like Mohawk nitro, I do not like the spray out of the cans. I tried some of the aftermarket fan tips on their cans and it did not fit right, had drips all over an SG I was doing. Oxford Supply out of Canada has good nitro with a good fan pattern tip which comes with it.

 

[JPTeleinNC]

Interesting comment from your wife, because shellac used to be used for finishing wood floors. I didn't see in there any resting time for the nitro, which you will want to do because of the shrinking. Also not too much lacquer per day. This is what I have done for my acoustics:

Sealer
1 x coat nitro
Grain filler
Wait one day
sand back grain filer to what you want
4 x coats nitro
wait one day
4 x coats nitro
Wait 2 weeks
level sand with 220 grit (spot fill any divits)
4-5 x coats nitro
Wait 4 weeks (some people wait up to 2 months)
sand & buff

While I like Mohawk nitro, I do not like the spray out of the cans. I tried some of the aftermarket fan tips on their cans and it did not fit right, had drips all over an SG I was doing. Oxford Supply out of Canada has good nitro with a good fan pattern tip which comes with it.

it was the vintage amber. Turned it piss yellow. I ended up with a little tobacco brown in 1# cut of blonde shellac, then spray clear satin poly over it. Came out great, I think. It's curing now