1964 Deluxe (non-reverb) barn find

MrCoolGuy

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Here is the new project.
IMG_3441.jpg
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super dirty, but also all unmolested except for someone snagging the bass pots and the speaker. It even has all the original E caps. Owner got it for 100 bucks! The power transformer works fine. The OT looks OK so far, but needs further testing. The only think I can find wrong with it (so far and excluding the obvious) is no continuity in the power cord. And, yes, that is a dirt dauber nest. Came with some nice tubes, which likely came with the amp... but clear top RCA 6V6GTA's
16422213378718915243145900305302.jpg a Sylvania 5U4GB 16422214809792164265173196221518.jpg and a couple 12AX7's branded Realistic that are probably Matsushita made.

The amp is dirty, but is already cleaning up better than I thought it would. Any tipu on cleaning the inside of the chasis? I've found Lexol works great to clean devestated tolex...
 

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Boreas

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You could spend a great deal of time restoring it to look really great, or you could just do a superficial cleaning of the chassis with a small vacuum brush, then replace the necessary caps and bad components. I might even leave the wasp nest!! Or you could carefully move it and glue it beside the transformer! A good brush/vacuum of the cab and a bit of glue, find an old handle, and you're done! In the classic automobile world, unrestored "survivors" are becoming as valuable (if not more) than beautiful, shiny restorations. Luckily, the faceplate is nearly immaculate. Just remove the surface funk and make it funktional!

FWIW, I have found over the years in rescuing barn finds of all types is using water/solvents to clean stuff often just drives the filth deeper and ruins the patina. Before I figure out my next step, I usually only use a good vacuum/brush cleaning. I would use a mask as there is no way to tell what is in that dust. It is surprising how good of a cleaning you can get with brushes and a vacuum. Water on old surfaces can remove logos, ink, paint, and quality patina. A stiffer-bristled brush can work well on stubborn surfaces that aren't as delicate. On something like this, the chassis can be cleaned quite well with one of those cheap computer vacuum accessory sets.

Another GREAT tool I have started using for many projects is a soft, make-up brush. I buy them for about $3-5 at the grocery store. I use them for cleaning and for quickly dusting off sanding dust on my wood projects. Buy a couple - I guarantee you will use them often!
 

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schmee

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Here is the new project. View attachment 940300 View attachment 940301 super dirty, but also all unmolested except for someone snagging the bass pots and the speaker. It even has all the original E caps. Owner got it for 100 bucks! The power transformer works fine. The OT looks OK so far, but needs further testing. The only think I can find wrong with it (so far and excluding the obvious) is no continuity in the power cord. And, yes, that is a dirt dauber nest. Came with some nice tubes, which likely came with the amp... but clear top RCA 6V6GTA's
View attachment 940303 a Sylvania 5U4GB View attachment 940304 and a couple 12AX7's branded Realistic that are probably Matsushita made.

The amp is dirty, but is already cleaning up better than I thought it would. Any tipu on cleaning the inside of the chasis? I've found Lexol works great to clean devestated tolex...
Cool! my main gigging amp is my 64 Deluxe non reverb. I love the tone of the non reverb amps.
Regarding chassis cleaning. I would vacuum/blow it out good, clean what you can with oversize Q tips and let it be.
Replace the E caps obviously.

The 5U4GB should be a GZ34. I would not continue to run the 5U4GB as they draw a lot of current taxing the transformer. Although in a non reverb you may get away with it.

Those amps usually run 460 volts on the power tubes. For that reason it may very well blow those RCA's or worse, like mine did, blow an RCA and take out the output tranny. JJ's are what to use, or find a way of reducing the voltage. EH's will blow in 3 months of use.

That appears to have been pretty damp. Hopefully you can just clean and refasten the Tolex.
I'd leave that grill cloth or find a piece that will work that is vintage BF.

OH! And clean those tube sockets very well!
What a find!
 
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SoK66

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I would gently blow out and vacuum the inside of the chassis. Then clean it with isopropyl alcohol, like I mean a serious douchng. It'll loosen the remaining dirt so you can wipe it out. As it dries it will evaporate off humidity that's gotten into the fibreboard. Afterwards the board will look brand new. Replace all the electrolytics, check the resistors and ceramic caps as you go.

(Don't wake up the wasps when you remove the nest!)
 

MrCoolGuy

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Cool! my main gigging amp is my 64 Deluxe non reverb. I love the tone of the non reverb amps.
Regarding chassis cleaning. I would vacuum/blow it out good, clean what you can with oversize Q tips and let it be.
Replace the E caps obviously.

The 5U4GB should be a GZ34. I would not continue to run the 5U4GB as they draw a lot of current taxing the transformer. Although in a non reverb you may get away with it.

Those amps usually run 460 volts on the power tubes. For that reason it may very well blow those RCA's or worse, like mine did, blow an RCA and take out the output tranny. JJ's are what to use, or find a way of reducing the voltage. EH's will blow in 3 months of use.

That appears to have been pretty damp. Hopefully you can just clean and refasten the Tolex.
I'd leave that grill cloth or find a piece that will work that is vintage BF.

OH! And clean those tube sockets very well!
What a find!
I know the schematic shows a GZ34, but I also know lots of amps left fender with different rectifiet tubes than whats called for. Also, that 5U4 will help lower that high voltage you mentioned on those RCA's. We will see when I get it going. By the way, this is not my amp... some people seem to think it is.
 

slider313

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I know the schematic shows a GZ34, but I also know lots of amps left fender with different rectifiet tubes than whats called for. Also, that 5U4 will help lower that high voltage you mentioned on those RCA's. We will see when I get it going. By the way, this is not my amp... some people seem to think it is.

I've never seen a blackface Fender Deluxe, or any blackface Fender, that left the factory with a different rectifier than what was called for. I have seen later silverface amps sporting the wrong tube chart, which in turn may have the wrong rectifier listed. Being the power transformer is the same as the Deluxe Reverb, you should be okay running a 5U4GB. I would still measure AC voltage at the heaters to be sure.
 

MrCoolGuy

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I've never seen a blackface Fender Deluxe, or any blackface Fender, that left the factory with a different rectifier than what was called for. I have seen later silverface amps sporting the wrong tube chart, which in turn may have the wrong rectifier listed. Being the power transformer is the same as the Deluxe Reverb, you should be okay running a 5U4GB. I would still measure AC voltage at the heaters to be sure.
I've seen blackface Princeton Reverbs (and Princeton's) come with the wrong rec tube, (GZ34 vs 5URGB) and wrong tubecharts.
Yes, I definitely will. I'm going to put whatever rectifier tube is sufficient and keeps the b+ down. I'm not married to the 5U4GB...
 

MrCoolGuy

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Are any of yall disappointed in how small elec. Caps are? Like when youre replacing cathode bypass caps in an old amp like this, the new ones are so much smaller. I know it doesn't matter, but the old bigger paper caps look better.
 

tubedude

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Are any of yall disappointed in how small elec. Caps are? Like when youre replacing cathode bypass caps in an old amp like this, the new ones are so much smaller. I know it doesn't matter, but the old bigger paper caps look better.
The newer e-caps are engineered better, and as they're smaller, some techs like to slide them into the old caps cardboard tubes to retain the appearance.
 




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