Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Jan 14, 2010.
Its crazy how well you matched that color! Amazing Gil.
At least you're not trying to get it as dark as mine!
And the top:
This thread is amazing. I would just like to say how impressed I am with your skill, patience, attention to detail and willingness to put this thread together. Just outstanding. Thank you..
You gotta admit though: he is kinda cute!
Gil, sorry to go off topic, but did you ever source some Swamp Kauri? I'm about to start a build using non-swamp Kauri, still from a 2000 year old tree but felled last century and not buried in a swamp. From what I can gather, the wood will be dry (of course) but more workable as the sap has not been leeched out by the swamp, so should behave in a more predictable manner. I can get plenty of this timber, it was used extensively in building in New Zealand in the 19th century. It doesn't have the soul of 35000 year old timber but it should still be nice to work. The point is anyway, that if you still want or need some Kauri, swamp or otherwise, I'd be happy to help out in finding the best sources.
Is it just me or is that baby gooses' legs facing backwards?
It's whole body is facing away from the camera. It just has its head turned around to face the camera.
Freaky one you see it, no?
They call that look 'Magnum' (for anybody who's seen Zoolander)
Amazing work Preeb, there's a level of attention to detail to inspire for. Also a lot of inspiration, with a nice bit of guidance in the mix.
Keep up the good work, and keep the posts coming! Totally addicted to this thread!
All the best
-Yes, but could that little goose be an ambi-turner??? You can see that it can turn right. But can it turn left?
Gil, i'[ve been holding back very long now....but i'[ve got to know.
"What is Smoothie for lacquer application/flow?"
I was looking at the burst on page 75... and the top is hardly faded. It's a deep dark cherry with a very unusual bursting effect going from dark to amber... I have to think about the color matching between the planned top colors to the red tint on the back...
If I'll do it too faded it will not match the vivid strong top and if I'll do it too red.... it will not look old enough... so... after spending the whole morning with scrap mahogany tests in one hand and the BOTB book (page 75...) in the other... I came up with this color scheme which is exactly what I want. It's "alive" enough to match the top but not too redish... it's beautiful !!!
Here's the mix: Red 50%, Amber 40%, Brown 8%, Blue 1%, black 1%
I'll prepare the color and allow it to fully dessolve before usage.
While it rests, the headstock face needs a little attention.
Masking is clipped at the nut base
Sides and holes are masked
I'll be using my small touch up gun for the thin black lacquer
Sprayed very thin
A few minutes later I scrape the logo area with a utility knife
and seal the whole thing with a second clear coat
I'll go a little off spec and mask the bindings again before the red tint coat... It's time consuming so Gibson preferred scraping... but I don't (-;
I start with an even thin coat
so there's a light even tint all over the instrument
The second run is selective... I only lightly emphasize the darker areas and leave the normally rubbed areas lighter in color (belly, foot, center on the neck etc....). This will give a much more realistic look to the guitar...especially after relicing (-;
This original has the same color. Note the neck faded area...
Here's a closeup of this tint to show you how deep the grain looks with the red filler deep down under...
Also note how realistic the Holly veneer looks with this combination
I'll let it breath for 24 hours before I do the top. Stay tuned (-;
You should see the size of the pile of scrap test pieces outside... (-;
I've seen them as dark as this... usually Darkbursts....
I'll keep your kind offer in mind!
There are so many things I want to do and so little time...
I want the 35K years old stuff though...
Thanks Phil, I will!