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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Jan 14, 2010.
It's a simple theory... if you want to duplicate something you need to duplicate it (-;
Yes they will. The mechanical properties are similar and the material will darken a little with UV exposure.
No need to make the caps... already got many waiting to be unleashed (-;
There are always all kind of builds and "issues" going on simultaneously...
There is no "special" next build... they are all special (-;
I did the 59 Tele Custom but there's nothing special about it that hasn't been posted before (except for the bindings which is a minor detail).
There's a way to give it a go... (only joking)
BTW... I didn't mean "Best" as in "Scientifically Best"...
I meant "PAF best"... (-;
Heh - sorry; I'd gotten so sidetracked that I wasn't thinking of your statement at all - just confirming that non-irradiated steel is a scarce and sought-after commodity in the instrumentation field. But, as you have pointed out, it's apparently great in the instrumental field too ; )
As another side note, I was just lying in bed and being sure not to stay up late again but I couldn't resist and had to fire up the PC so I could read the latest on this build. You're a dealer, I tell ya!
Filler is dry. time to seal it.
Before spraying... I still need to drill the grounding channel. The STP insert will be installed on top of the bare grounding wire.
from about here
to about here
I rub the guitar with the grain direction to remove a little of the filler from the pores. This will result with the finish sinking a bit when cured to get that vintage old look that I'm after.
Board is masked. I don't mask the top because it will only get a slight over-spray that will melt with the first yellow clear coat anyway...
Hanged from the hook
The first coat is a very thin misty coat.... I don't wish the red to bleed to the bindings much.
as thin and "dry" as possible
Next coat is a standard 3 pass
Third coat is heavily wet to get a nice build like seen on all late 59's under the red coat.
Hardly any bleeding (if at all) at this stage on both body and neck bindings.
I'll leave it to dry for 24 hours before moving to lacquer (black for headstock, red for mahogany and yellow for maple top)
Preeb hello again I have to say excellent work
I am for a project very similar get started and tell him to enter this helps me a lot about vintage guitars since I only have 26 years and in Argentina the 59 scarce
my question is you are using traditional nitrocellulose lacquer?
How long wait between hand and hand
another question knows exactly the steps of the head of the Les Paul Custom?
sorry if my English is not goo
Hi preeb, thanks again for the great thread.
Just wanna tell you that I discovered that now one can put more than 4 images for each reply, hope this helps you to shorten time.
That's really looking great Preeb!
That's one of the best posts on that thread (-;
I hope I can make use of it... I'm posting like a robot now... need to change the software...
TMHO, at this stage, the instrument is not very beautiful... the mahogany is still too brown, the red in the filler is not yet spread and without the burnt orange/red color coat it looks a little ugly duckling naked... but it *will* slowly turn into a swan... soon (-;
I have a nitrocellulose lacquer if not whether it is pure, but when I paint my acoustic guitar while cracks are like the Les Paul vintage, is it not a good sign?
Yeah, hard to tell of course via a monitor but it does look more brown than red. More like a slightly darker '54 reissue than a '59.
Looking forward to seeing a burst version of this .
A double neck ?!?
TMO it now looks exactly like a hard faded burst