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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Jan 14, 2010.
+1, just like many of us.
Have you made the jigs for the brown Lifton case yet?
Great idea!!! That would be a great addition to this already great guitar!
Edit: I was very enthusiastic (3x times "great")
i just about buying the Honduran Mahogany for my built.
Its density is 0,462 g/cm3.
i thought someone like you with that much experince in guitarbuilding can estimate the final weight of the final Burst Replica? (with a middle weight Maple Top)
Well, none of the knowledgeable guys have answered, so I'll have a go.
Bursts all used the 1 1/2" screw for the body end and earlier Les Pauls used these screws (and occasionally 1 1/4" screws) for both strap buttons. The reissues are, of course wrong.
I would have... but shipping overseas with a lifton case is like crossing the ocean with a canu (-;
+ It's already made... I think I saw it in one of the parts dealers websites.
Can you convert to Lbs/BF please?
Thanks again B.
So I'm not crazy after all.... I felt something was fishy there... (-;
1 1/2" it is then. I accidentally got those too in stock (as you know.... I'm a screws freek)
its 0,00101853565 lbs / cm3
What does "BF" mean?
BF must mean Board Foot
This will result with a 0.003564874775 Lbs guitar LOL...
Lightest is 2 Lbs/BF
Light is 2.2 Lbs/BF
Average is ~ 2.5 Lbs/BF
Heavy is when it's getting closer to 2.8 Lbs/BF and up
It's not a science but the very rough factor is X 3.7
Thick finish is the "silent" weight killer...
Oh... sorry...Of course!
I thought it was obvious.
I only use this Lbs/BF with all my suppliers and I was too tired to do the conversion...
Now it should be right :
2,40835 lbs / Board Foot
do you think with that wood a final weight of 8-8.5 lbs is realistic?
8.5 - 9... but Maple and finish film play a role as well.
BTW, too light is not recommended... blurry low end and lower sustain.
This is why I love a medium weight Mahogany with many little shallow holes (not a few deep large ones as found on newer standards)... It's the best of both worlds and I highly recommend that design for killer tone in a super light package (-;
Gil, why Linseed Oil? Does it serves as a Plasticiser?
The Rings came out nice - you need to remove the Dimarzio logo though..
Boiled Linseed Oil is the carrier (binder) for the pumice, it lubricates and prevents scratches.
No need for plasticizer since the small volumes of filler material in the pores do not require flexibility.
Mineral Spirits or Turpentine help the flow of the oil which otherwise has high viscosity.
Lacquer is the bonding material but many don't use it since the sanding sealer "locks" the filler in the pores anyway.... I use it to allow faster filler curing time.
Truth is.... you could use pumice mixed with alcohol alone to do the job if you spray the next coats right away... but I can't really recommend that for everybody (-;
Gil what kind of black pigment do you use? I use boneblack to mix with shellack for an antique black finish but I found it is a little translucent. So I wonder what you used in the hidegluemix for the logo.
I never saw it advertised as a product even though I'm talking about a period of about 30 - 35 years ago. Even then it had been gone from the market for years. I imagine it was a byproduct of the brickmaking industry, but would, of course, have needed refining so that it was consistent in grain size. Probably it was equivalent to a fairly course pumice, but had the advantage of being reddish coloured.
I use black aniline from LMII. It doesn't really matters if it's a little translucent since it's thick enough and the logo scraping shouldn't cross the MOP logo line by much after spraying the opaque black lacquer.
The dye dissolves instantly in the hot hide glue but I let it sit in 70°C heater can for a couple of minutes. It's important to use very little water in the glue mix to prevent extra sinking.
Best (and correct) way to do this in real production operation:
1) thin the holly to 0.040
2) cut the holly to shape and cut out the logo "window" frame
3) place a strong paper masking tape on the back of the "window" (not too much or the soft Holly will split on removal!!!)
4) very slowly pore the black hide glue from the center to remove trapped air bubbles (be quick since it's very gummy)
5) press the logo in on a solid flat surface and hold it down for about a minute until glue gels
6) allow to fully cure for at least 2 days (it's a thick trapped volume of glue)
7) flush sand the logo area and remove tape
it's a long list... but it's a simple minor operation. So you can make a few to last a lifetime (-;
Wear a mask when sanding MOP!!!!