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1959 Les Paul Build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Jan 14, 2010.

  1. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    The board taper is correct.
    Since you're not going for an exact replica I believe the 2.2° will be just fine. Just make sure the strings clear the bridge PU ring and that your ABR center saddles are between 14.5-16.5mm from the maple top.
    Don't be too concerned about the exact bridge height because unlike classical guitars, the ABR-1 can be easily adjusted to set the desired string action.
     
  2. bigDschramm

    bigDschramm Tele-Meister

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    Thanks Gil. I just wanted to make sure I didn't end up outside of the 14.5-16.5mm measurement. I'm also going to bevel the PU rings so that should clear the strings. This is a great stress reliever building this on the side of my other builds. I'm sure the classical purists who know me will freak out when they see me build an electric.

    Here is how I do my neck and PU angles. The sanding disc is called a "Gilbert" thickness sanding disc. It is named after a famous luthier in the USA named John Gilbert who is a machinest and used this method for his work in the 1960's to today. 95% of my parts come off of this thickness sander. I can control thicknesses to +/-0.0005". I was wondering how I was going to rout the angle and this seemed to be the quickest way without me having to build a new jig. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2010
  3. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    +/-0.0005" tolerance? are you serious? on a drill press? How?
    Can you give more info on this tool?
     
  4. bigDschramm

    bigDschramm Tele-Meister

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    Yes, +/-0.0005 tolerance. I've been using this tool for nearly 20 years. It works great. I thickness my veneers, necks, bracing, backs, sides, tops,..etc. off of it. Greg Matonis who is John Gilbert's son-in-law made an extra disc for me about 10 years ago. I featured it on my online guitar making course and many people wanted one so Greg started making them available. Here is a link http://www.specialtytuners.com/sanding_disc.html $50. My favorite and most used tool in my shop. Here is how it is used: http://www.specialtytuners.com/fence_featherboard.html
     
  5. Mojotron

    Mojotron Poster Extraordinaire

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  6. Dmann

    Dmann Tele-Meister

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    I think you may need to factor in that those wheels would probably have been well worn down. You might try running it on some scrap wood to get the wires to bend and thin out a bit an be slightly less agressive.
     
  7. sasparilla

    sasparilla TDPRI Member

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    The depth of the cable-Channel is 1/2 " right?

    When you start to finish it? :D
     
  8. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    VV
     
  9. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Just wished to let you know that this project is not neglected... I have to finish up some other stuff with higher priority and the guitar is getting totally dried before the finishing process to prevent known Mahogany outgassing issues (caused by locked natural wood liquids evaporation during temperature changes and chemical reaction to finishing materials). The correct pore filler and dye are also on the way so I'd rather wait for them to arrive than use my current oil filler which is not neutral in color.
     
  10. jdm61

    jdm61 Tele-Holic

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    I haven't tried using tamaghane or other self smelted steels. The amazing this is that those guys were able to make those incredible swords in spite of starting with rather crude materials when compared to what the Indian steel makers were producing at the time. You could say that the smith is essentially making/reifining the blade steel right there on the anvil. I can understand what he means about never making a perfect sword, guitar, etc. If you ever did that , it would be time to quit while you were ahead.:D But you know that you are dealing with some serious craftmanship with those swords. Having a blade properly polished in the traditional fashion will set you back at least $1500-1800 in the US!!!!!:eek:
     
  11. David Collins

    David Collins Tele-Afflicted

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    And people hem and haw over the $300-$400 for a typical refret.... :rolleyes:

    Gil, I'm still gathering data and photos of the fretboard markings, though it's been a busy week. I'll try and get back with some relevant info in the next few days.
     
  12. Sterling Sound

    Sterling Sound Tele-Meister

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    Hi Gil, I will wait patiently for my next shot of uncut LP build posts :lol:
     
  13. Scott Auld

    Scott Auld Tele-Holic

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    Dmann's comments seem to have a lot of merit. Don't overlook them...

    Cheers.
     
  14. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Thanks friend,
    No rush though... The final buffing is miles ahead...
     
  15. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    LOL... sure B. You'll have your own private set pretty soon... (-;
     
  16. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Overlooking?!? Not at all. I was just thinking how to test this...
    Using a good Brazilian board as scrap is not my happiest thought right now... but I'll do it. I wouldn't even dream touching this guitar with a brass wire wheel before I know exactly what to expect.
     
  17. Sterling Sound

    Sterling Sound Tele-Meister

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    Gil, you don't want to know how much I think about this... it is not healthy. Luckily I had the Esquire out today for some perfectly fine playing session... Yardbirds, Zeppelin, heck even Apache since I saw Jeff Beck do that again lately.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CE4qtdbiQnI
     
  18. Scott Auld

    Scott Auld Tele-Holic

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    When I said 'overlooking' I was talking to David. :D


    Preeb's eyes see all, know all, replicate all ... :arrow::D
     
  19. Sterling Sound

    Sterling Sound Tele-Meister

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  20. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    I need to start testing different aniline dyes.
    The original mix is a certain percentage of red and blue and both need to fade.
    The fading rate for the red needs to be about 3 times as rapid as the blue's.
    The red added to the pore filler is not the same red used for the top and does not contain blue in it (it hardly fades too... and is not an aniline dye but rather a red pigment...but we'll get to that later).
    I ordered samples from LMII and woodcraft (TransFast).

    [​IMG]

    I had great results with the LMII red in the past for 1958-1960 3 tone Fender sunbursts and it fades very fast into a deep orange-brown color, it also has great transparency and looked correct under black light. The only problem is that I'm not sure they are still using the same supplier and I don't need any surprises at the UV stage as some reds will hardly fade if at all...
    The TransFast was recommended by a luthier friend.
    I was surprised to find out they are identical.... didn't run the UV test yet but I can already see they are made in the same factory (The LMII is cheaper though... (-; ).

    [​IMG]

    I'm with the flu and feel sick as a wet dog in a cold winter night.... so I won't do the test until later this week... but I'm online and this is a great time for brainstorming the upcoming subjects.
     
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