1959 Les Paul Build

Thunders1988

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Just what I needed during my exams... Another Preeb-thread. :D
I think I'm going to pay more attention to this one than my books.
 

Sterling Sound

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SetC.jpg

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I like this one , but they are all pretty cool :D Gil I was waiting anxiously for this thread, I will look forward to all updates and checking in 5 times a day :rolleyes: I need to get a life but I love Les Paul threads
 

KevinB

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Wow! Another great Preeb build thread.

As ever I am amazed at how easy you make this look, and it's great that you are prepared to share all this with us. You really should consider putting all these builds into a book. I know I'd buy a copy.

And, I vote for the last of the maple tops too.
 

joe desperado

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The scale should be 24.65 in 58-60 as far as I recall.

To build a Burst clone, (as you may know) these is a lot more to them then meets the eye. (like a fender I am sure). The top carve has very specific characteristics to it that differ from all other years. Also, the way the control cavity was milled is different as well. The control cavity was milled from two different angles which caused the milling machine to rub to spots on the side walls. The angle causes the bottom to have two surfaces that are not completey flat to one another. If you can nail the top carve and the control cavity, you can make a convinicing 59 clone. Even a lot of the top builders did not get the right details down. They were so concerned about the long neck tenon and pickup cavities that they missed the cosmetic things...like the top, cavity and the position of the tail piece and bridge.

JD
 

preeb

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The scale should be 24.65 in 58-60 as far as I recall.

To build a Burst clone, (as you may know) these is a lot more to them then meets the eye. (like a fender I am sure). The top carve has very specific characteristics to it that differ from all other years. Also, the way the control cavity was milled is different as well. The control cavity was milled from two different angles which caused the milling machine to rub to spots on the side walls. The angle causes the bottom to have two surfaces that are not completely flat to one another. If you can nail the top carve and the control cavity, you can make a convinicing 59 clone. Even a lot of the top builders did not get the right details down. They were so concerned about the long neck tenon and pickup cavities that they missed the cosmetic things...like the top, cavity and the position of the tail piece and bridge.

JD

Thanks JD for the input.

* It's not 24.65... The issue is that the 12th fret corresponds to either 24 9/16" (or sometimes 24 5/8") scale but the higher frets don't. They used an entirely different calculation method, same as they used since the 20's (like many other companies at that period)... I don't wish to get into the complicated math here but you can PM me for the details.
* The top carve in the 50's was totally inconsistent because they hard sanded the roughly curved top on a slack belt sander.
* The slanted second control rout is easy and done by many builders. I'll show how it's done on this thread as well.
*position of the ABR-1 is also inconsistent on originals. The tail piece will be angled back on the bass side as it should (-;
 

joe desperado

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Well...as I said "as you may know". Ha ha..

The bridge did not have as much angle as later years. Its compensation seemed way off and why the saddles are all the way forward..and all the way back. Its amazing that it actually played in tune..but it does.

Yea the top carve is all over the place, but the re-curve seems to change slopes by the toggle switch. (if follows the body line until it gets near the switch. Then if goes sort of straight etc). I am sure you mapped all that out if you spent the time on the other stuff as you did.


I'll be watching this build.

Thanks,
Joe
 

preeb

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Well...as I said "as you may know". Ha ha..

The bridge did not have as much angle as later years. Its compensation seemed way off and why the saddles are all the way forward..and all the way back. Its amazing that it actually played in tune..but it does.

Yea the top carve is all over the place, but the re-curve seems to change slopes by the toggle switch. (if follows the body line until it gets near the switch. Then if goes sort of straight etc). I am sure you mapped all that out if you spent the time on the other stuff as you did.


I'll be watching this build.

Thanks,
Joe

Yes... Already mapped 3 tops...
I'm not sure if I'm going to do it by hand (lots of fun) or use the duplicarver. We'll see...
It's probably going to be easier to manually carve it than to dig out the duplicarver from storage... LOL
I'll bring the duplicarver to the shop anyway... it's about time + I really want to make this an accurate production line type build so that I'll be able to duplicate the tops every time. If a special top or neck angle is required I can always do it by hand.
 
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koolaide

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Awesome as usual Gil... you always leave me speachless.... This is now my first subscribed thread.

Thanks for sharing.
 

Engraver-60

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Just for my info - do you know what kind of wood is under the original Gold Top 57-58's? I had one of those '58's (grew legs and walked away 30 years ago), and the re-issue 2001 is as heavy, but I am still cuious if it's a flame maple or just plain maple under the paint.

And Preeb - Again Shalom - and thanks for another epic build. You are truly the master. Do you need an old man (mensch) to help sweep up the shop?
 




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