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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Jan 14, 2010.
It smells so good, really sweet ....indian is different.
Yes. Once you use it you'll never forget the smell.
When I re-saw BRRW boards I use a mask... otherwise it "burns" my lungs.
Fender too ?!!!???
Can you tell me all you know about this please?
I have never seen CCBL boards on a pre-CBS Fenders.
Huh, interesting. Thanks!
I just recently bought some Cocobolo, It was very light in color when I cut it. Now the boards are getting darker, but not dark enough. Is there any way to get them darker with out dyeing them? I've been trying some different things, I've laid them out in the sun, I've been wiping one down with acetone, which made it darker than the rest, but maybe just a shade darker.
No... unfortunately this wood is too oily and dense to get "treated"...
Only method is oil based dye... a very bad thing for tone since it raises the oil content in the wood and makes it softer. It works great on ebony because it's "too" hard to begin with... but not good for RW.
You need to select the darker blanks for your builds and make toys from the rest... (I use them for entrance door signs and give them as unique presents to friends and family)... That's the silent $$$ killer in wood selection... you only get to use about a third of the batch. This is no problem with the cheaper woods (CCBL) of course but imagine what I need to "swallow" with the Brazilian Rosewood... wrong color, wrong grain orientation, wrong cut, worm holes, dark spongy mineral streaks.... etc.... it's an economical nightmare (-;
When possible, ask for photos before ordering. Most wood suppliers will not do this, especially if you buy the minimum 50 blanks to get the price break... but some might do you a favor.
They had it cut in a rough 4x4x18 blank but they had it covered in wax, so it looked way darker than what it actually was. Like you said it it didn't cost that much, it does have an excellent grain, and I wouldn't have any problems using it on my own designs, but it's just not brown enough for LP builds. Thanks for the info about the dye. I figured there had to some kind of drawback to using it.
I have been working on my first guitar build (a Leser) due, in no small part, to this inspiring thread. I was hoping you could help me out with the size of router bit/bearing I'll need to get the correct size binding channel.
There is a way to make these woods darker permanently!
Cocobolo, Brazilian Rosewood, Pernambuco,and other woods contain a dye that was in the past used for dying both cloth and veneers. The addition of an alkali and iron turns them black! (like sweat and guitar strings) PLEASE, make sure you wear eye protection because just a drop of strong alkali can blind you permantently.
For fingerboards, apply an alkali such as ammonia or sodium hydroxide solution to the board and wipe it away a few times. This helps to remove some of the oils. Then apply a strong solution of iron sulphate which you can buy from any gardeners shop. After that apply more alkali, and repeat the process till you get the colour you want. Rinse with clean water and let dry.
Finally, use a drying oil like boiled linseed oil and burnish the surface of the board hard.
Try it out on scrap and I think you'll be surprised!
Hey thanks a lot! I'll give it a try!
Make sure you keep your eyes safe.
In the past, sometimes the unshaped wood was boiled in sodium hydroxide for several hours then the iron was added and left to soak for a day or two so the wood coloured all the way through, but why do that to a seasoned piece of wood when you can treat the finished surface and it will never come off.
AND the true old growth stuff that has been sitting around for 30 or more years is different than the "stumpwood" that has been making the rounds lately. You are right that the old growth Brazilian smells different than cocobolo. But to me, it also looks and feels a bit different. It seems a bit lighter in weight too. It is almost as nice smelling as amboyna burl, which, to me, smells like you are baking cookies when you grind and sand it. I have some sticks of 40+ year old Brazilian (the seller has had the stuff for over 30 years) that were cut to make very expensive pool cues. Unfortunately, they guy I get it from tut all he had to that size, do I am limited to using it for handles on smaller knives.
After following this awesome thread from the start, I'm posting in green to symbolize my utter jealousy!
You, Sir, have excellent taste in guitars, welcome to the TDPRI!
The stew mac kit includes the needed sizes.
Since I'd rather NOT do violent spindle sanding on the outline a .07"-.08" cut is good enough but I know others might use a .09"-.1" cut to allow for more sanding. Make sure you don't press the body too hard against the bit to prevent the indentation caused by the bearing.
Thanks for the tip, B!
It will turn the wood darker toward the black/gray end of the color spectrum and make it look "used" or reliced. I use iron for heavy relics to make the bare wood look dark gray instead of fresh but I never tried this on RW boards. If I may ask, will it look right when trying to turn a light brown CCBL/BRRW/RIO into NOS dark brown? How will the high iron content affect the RW in the long run?
It works fine for darkening to a NOS level too. This process relies on the inbuilt dye in the wood. There are lots of other metal salts (rather than iron salt) that can be used for different colours too. A little research into traditional dyeing techniques will give more information that you want!
I'll check into that.
Thanks for the valuable info B.
Hi Daniel, Congrats on your build. Looks good so far. When routing for the binding I like to use a gramil first. This helps avoid any tear out.
For the router I use this kit from LMI: http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdpr...ols&NameProdHeader=Binding+Cutter/Bearing+Kit
I've used this kit for many years. I love it. This along with the gramil and you'll be fine.