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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Jan 14, 2010.
I forgot to ask. What kind of ink did you use? The ink surely has to be water resistant.
It's a decal paper I make. I use heavy white paper sprayed with thin white glue (gel) and a thin film of nitro. This way the ink is protected on both sides after top coated and submerged in water.
You can also buy it online I think... but without the lacquer of course.
I understand. You are great! So my last question has already been answered. Thanks!
Have you ever detailed this in your other threads? I haven't read them all...yet.
I think a fenderlike decal has to be produced in another way, cause there´s always a real foil under the finish. This serialnumber on the headstock now isn´t a decal anymore. It´s pure ink melted into nitro. Great!
I´ve got a question again. You talked about the tapering thickness of the fretboard to get an even hight for the binding. I´m not sure what´s the best way to realize this. You first did the tapering and after that the slotting. If you first do the slotting on a board with an even hight, the slots will be really in a 90° angel. The tapering could be done from the other side. I just think about it. How did it Gibson to realize a quick production.
The Back Color is perfect as far as i can tell from the Pictures, how long it has to dry before final sanding and buffing?
Do you know if the Serial number on the original was stamped into the wood a little bit?
I would love to see some high quality Pictures from that Guitar, the CellPhone quality doesnt justice to the Quality of your Work :!:
Good point. Thank you!
I believe the angle difference is close to nothing, probably around 1/2° or so,
but I'll definitely take your advice into consideration in my next builds. I'm not even sure that my slot cutter is that accurate and capable to produce an exact 90° cut though... LOL
As to what Gibson did... that... you'll have to ask them.
What final sanding? I haven't applied the clear coat yet (-;
The serial on earlier 50's Lesters was definitely stamped over the sealer... on Bursts... I don't know. Probably the same as they look the same to me.
I hope I'll never find out for sure... (-;
I'll do the final shots with a good camera... I promise. Maybe even a sound clip...
Back flows much better now with the burst, definitely notice a difference!
Thank you for the correction. You are absolutely right.
You have to
Yes, that angel is close to nothing. Or maybe the effect of first tapering and 2nd slotting is good because the saddleline (fret zero) has to be filed back to 90° what makes the saddle move a little forward. Even if it´s almost nothing it´s good for intonation.
I like your thinking Dalton!
Wow. Just catching up on the last few pages since Friday. That burst is stunning - the tinted nitro top will make it perfect I'm sure.
I hope you don't get tired of compliments and thanks again for sharing all of your wonderful insight and knowledge.
to get it perfect straight:
lay the fretboard on a straight surface and take a simple wooddrill with a centered tip in the diameter of the fretboards rimhight. You can tune that height with a feelergauge under the drill. Mark the points where to drill by handspinning. After that you can use your manual drill.
to get it perfect off:
use different feelergauges under the drill
Preeb-first of all, what can I say that hasn't been said. I'm in awe. This is a work of art with an attention to detail that is completely unmatched in this disposable culture.
Will you be aging this guitar? I don't remember if you mentioned that or not.
Sorry if that question has been answered ten times already.....I didn't feel like looking through 2000+ posts to find it!!!
Yes... I'll relic the thing...(-;
LOL... Thanks Dalton.
I was only joking.. I thought it was obvious.
hey preeb .. i've found this on my guitar-tuner box...
“When love and skill work together, expect a masterpiece.” John Ruskin
I believe that it is a thought that describes perfectly your way of working and understanding the guitar....
How can one get tired of compliments (-;
Seriously though... I was really expecting more inputs from LP experts.
It's a huge task to gather all the info, materials, blueprints....etc... and it's a complicated instrument to build correctly... so.. it makes no sense to me that no one has pointed out better ways to doing things or correct my assumptions...
I'd much rather have criticism than compliments... criticism I can use to make things better... (-;