1959 ES-335TD proto build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, May 3, 2011.

  1. Emperor-TK

    Emperor-TK TDPRI Member

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    I just got back from the New York Amp Show and had the opportunity to play an absolutely fantastic Burst replica. I was stunned with how great it was. Pictures attached:
     

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  2. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    All 335's have a solid center maple block. Later ones have a big notch next to the bridge pickup so they could feed the huge inductors needed for the Varitone control, and it makes assembly easier even without the varitone since you can feed the pots and knob through the pickup rout rather than the f-hole. My understanding is that '62 was the transition date when they started using the notch, but it looks like Eric's '64 did not have the notch (based on videos taken when they explored the instrument to make the Crossroads replicas).

    What model are you referring to when you say yours is almost hollow?
     
  3. b3john

    b3john TDPRI Member

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    And, more importantly, sexier. :cool:

    The whole design breakthrough of the 335 semi-hollowbody in '58 was that the solid centerblock made the guitar "behave" so much better when it came to feedback. The other culprit is usually unpotted pickups, especially depending on how they were wound. Maybe that's what you're experiencing?
     
  4. 335 Reasons

    335 Reasons TDPRI Member

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    The guitar I am referring to is described in page 13 of this thread
     
  5. 335 Reasons

    335 Reasons TDPRI Member

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    No, unpotted is another story. Anyway I'll make a few "loud" clips soon to demonstrate what I'm talking about (as soon as my right hand feels OK again after heavy use of the computer mouse lately). For those who are interested...

    http://www.youtube.com/user/335Reasons

    I am at the Stelios Saridakis playlist, the other guy is my son
     
  6. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Guitar is brushed to remove any dust from the pores

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    I'll seal it with golden shellac (2lbs cut) to match the original late 50's process.
    Shellac will seal the wood from being dyed by the dark neck pore filler and will pop out the flames nicely

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    Two quick coats are sufficient. The first coat takes more shellac as it soaks in and the second is to even things up nicely.

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    15 minutes is more than enough for shellac to dry

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    While it dries I'll do a cherry filler on a burst and take comparison photos of the colors

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    Body neck joint lines are masked to prevent the dark brown filler from staining the maple

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    Oil based Filler is mixed and brushed over the entire neck

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    Wiped to remove excess filler. I only want it in the pores.

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    Like this

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    Masking removed to reveal very clean border lines

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    Here's the two fillers, 335 dark brown on left and cherry on right

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    Foam strips are used to block the F holes while spraying

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    First coat is a misty sanding sealer. I can't do a wet coat immediately because the brown filler might run a little into the maple creating a fuzzy joint line... Not good.

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    This is when the flames begin to pop out and the body is starting to look 3D

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    10 minutes later I follow with the primary single wet coat

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    I inspect it to make sure it doesn't need any sanding (I'm lazy... so I try to spray well (-; )

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    and let it hang for 24 hours before the Nitro clear coats

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    Last edited: Jun 5, 2011
  7. deaconque

    deaconque Tele-Meister

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    The dark brown filler turned a beautiful shade of brown. :D
     
  8. tangelolemon

    tangelolemon Tele-Meister

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    Gil--

    Do you believe that the careful masking procedure was performed on the original Gibsons, or perhaps that the necks may have been pore-filled separately before being joined to the bodies? What insight have you gained into the original process? Just curious.
     
  9. Scooby Snax

    Scooby Snax Friend of Leo's

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    I'm wondering that myself... I don't think that the pore filler would compromise the glue joint on the neck. I would think that this was only needed on the blondes, not the red heads and the sunburned ;)
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2011
  10. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    The filler is a very dark brown but the shellac prevents it from staining the surface. It only fills the pores but that's enough to give the neck a darker overall deep look. If you look at the following photos of 58-59 blonde 335's you'll notice the necks are not dyed from the filler, only filled.

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  11. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    I've seen them with and without the dark filler, but I can't see how a neck can get pore filled before it is glued to the body... I'm positive the 335's were handled the same way as any other Gibsons at the Kalamazoo factory, final sanding >> pore filler >> Sealer >> sanding >> paint >> scraping >> clear >> buffing.
    The masking is not a must because the shellac prevents the filler dye from penetrating the maple, so maybe a little sanding and cleaning took place in case they didn't mask taped the joint. I don't have photos showing that a tape was used but I prefer to do it this way... I'm in no hurry (-;
     
  12. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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  13. jonal335

    jonal335 Tele-Holic

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    The pickguard looks great Gil - how was the block underneath glued to the pg? I had a ES347 pg that had separated there and had trouble gluing it back together. I finally traded the 347 away. I was never happy with the sound - despite many pup swaps. It was built very well and with its ebony f-board was the best Gibson I've ever played - just never sounded good...
     
  14. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Acetone glue or pure acetone.
    The early PG bracket blocks were cut from celluloid plastic, roughly sanded to shape and threaded in house.
     
  15. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    I'll use old lacquer (about 1 year in direct sunlight) to give the guitar a warmer golden look. The jar is dusty and dirty like good old wine bottle (-;

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    In this stage I'll only give it a single wet coat. Note the color is warmer but not as much as I like it to be...

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    Before applying the final golden clear the bindings need to be scraped.
    This may sound surprising because there's no reason to scrape bindings on a blonde clear finish.... but Gibson scraped all the binding on all models regardless of the finish color. This is very evident when looking at the step left by the scraper blade where the bindings are lower than the wood. I'd like to keep that old method and achieve the old look. The scraping also cleans and smooths the binding from any previous contamination and sanding scratches.

    Sides first

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    top and back

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    and the guitar is ready for the final golden coat that will make the bindings darker and blend them nicely with the maple.

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    note the ledge

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  16. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    It's worth mentioning that the F hole cuts on the originals were painted with oil based light creme color to hide the laminations. The paint has been applied with a brush and the top edge was wiped smooth without damaging the nitro on the top.
    Note the light color of the oil paint compared to the now darkened old lacquer. Originally this color was a good match to the maple when fresh new.

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    Same type of paint, in different colors, is often seen in the control cavities ledge of other models where lacquer buildup had to be chipped off to allow for a better recess of the covers. The oil paint was used to hide the missing lacquer in that area.

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  17. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Sorry for not showing you this part earlier jonal335... I just couldn't find it (-;
    Here's the bracket I'll be using for this build.

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    The black celluloid cube is glued under the pickguard with acetone glue

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    This closed nut was often used in the early years but sometimes they just used two regular open nuts.

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  18. jonal335

    jonal335 Tele-Holic

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    Thanks Gil, that style of pickguard bracket has always seemed so elegant and typical of the old style of craftsmen ...
     
  19. RyanC

    RyanC TDPRI Member

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    Speechless.
     
  20. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Headstock masked

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    Black lacquer sprayed very thin

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    and a second light coat

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    MOP logo scraped with a utility blade

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    holly inlay too

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    it's very whitish but will get a golden coat soon

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    Last golden old lacquer wet coat sprayed

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    Here's the headstock again with a tinted golden MOP

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    side dots got a little golden as well

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    I'll try to take better shots later.
     
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