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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Jan 29, 2009.
what is the cavity between the two pick-up cavities for ?
newbie question, i know
That is simply for the two wires from the neck pickup. It would be a real task - if not impossible - to drill a hole from the neck PU cavity to the control cavity for the wires without that rout.
oh i see, thx
It's a great question.
The first Esquires didn't have the diagonal channel and the neck pocket truss rod adjustment channel (they had no truss rod either...).
The Neck pu leads channel was drilled from the neck cavity through the neck pu cavity into the bridge pu cavity. A 11/32" drill from the bridge pu cavity to the control cavity allowed all 4 wired to be run to the controls.
Here are a few photos from my 1950 Esquire line to demonstrate this:
Note how shallow the control cavity was in 1950... there was actually a need to chisel some wood of off the bottom to allow for the CRL 3 position switch mounting.
The later development was a 3/4" - 1" diameter shallow drill (where the diagonal channel is currently located)
and the final design is the diagonal channel that was implemented into the master pin router body template and was used ever since.
I just spent a good long time reading this thread! Should have mowed the lawn, but this was waaaay better
Wow, I didn't know that was how the first Esquires were done. I wonder how many bodies were ruined using the circular hole method, either through snapping drill bits or drilling underneath the control cavity at too steep an angle? It was obviously not working that well as they saw the need to change to the routed channel.
LOL.... yes... many broken drills for sure... I know I broke one (-;
Hi Gil! If possible...could you say what model of router bit(size) use to shape the neck in the backside? The process is excelent!!! Thanks a lot!
It's CNC machined by order.
Ok...I'd like to know the specs. Thanks a lot!
Love this thread, Ill be reading through it again for sure
I have some questions for you
which has an approximate weight swamp ash body?
In my city ash trees grow very close, I have a suspicion it could be swamp ash, the tree is equal to Fraxinus Nigra
the grain of the wood is similar to the swamp ash
I have cut wood, put some pictures tomorrow
How do you make these cutters? Do you have a machinist do it? Or by modding a roundover bit? It's really amazing.
Nevermind, I found the answer. Great job!
i want to thank preeb (alias gil)
i think he's a great builder, but first of all he's the nicest person ever!
i didn't know where to buy both plain enamel and (light)swamp ash and i wrote him (not expetting any reply) the answer came the same day with some of the finest dealers i've ever found in my builder career! thanks preeb!!!!
StewMac linked this thread on their FB feed.
"tinting stage is done"
Silly question, when you paint the body flat, how do you flip then make the transition from laying flat to hanging? Thanks for any response.
Lacquer is getting dry to the touch in a minute or two providing the coat is sprayed thin.
Amazing work you do Gil! I've been going through all your builds and it's getting me excited to finish the build I started 5 years ago
A question for you, mainly out of curiosity, why did Fender use 1 template on the back and 1 on the front of the body? Wouldn't it have been as easy to make both body templates mount to the same holes on the front of the body removing the necessity to fill the 2 holes in the back of the body?
I think it took me a couple days to make a sound. LOL. Beautiful work and love the sound. That thing is built to boogie. Love your work Preeb always did. I was offline for a couple of years, but I'm back now building again and love catching up with what everyone's been working on.