100 thousand miles for gas engines

[doghouseman]

I remember when getting 100 thousand miles out of an engine required a lot of work. Now it seems as if a new car can go 100 thousand without much work at all.

But after 100, what do you guys suggest is the most important part of the maintenance process? I know I should change the plugs, and I always change the oil. I guess the transmission oil? Also with front wheel drive cars, they dont have a "rear end" to change the fluids in, but is that just part of the transmission oil in a front wheel drive?

 

[stepvan]

Front “diff” is part of the trans, and called the trans axle so that gets covered with trans fluid change. Oil changes are the major concern depending on the motor it’s good to change the coils when you do plugs if you have not done them at this point but yeah 250k is the new 100k

 

[KokoTele]

It really depends on the car, so there isn't a stock answer like there would have been 30 or 40 years ago. Every newer car has recommended service intervals that should be followed, and they can vary quite a bit. Get the manual for your particular car.

Some of these items aren't serviceable without special equipment. My last two cars, for instance, haven't had a drain for the transmission fluid. The maintenance schedule says "inspect transmission fluid" and "inspect differential fluid," but there isn't a "replace" item. If you decide you do need to replace it, I think you're sucking it out through the dipstick hole. Replacing the spark plugs happens at the 120,000 mile mark.

 

[stormsedge]

I know I should change the plugs, and I always change the oil. I guess the transmission oil?

Yes, change at the manufacturer's suggested intervals. Also, change the air filter, fuel filter, cabin filter, and any emissions pieces required at the correct interval...vehicle dependent.

Also with front wheel drive cars, they dont have a "rear end" to change the fluids in, but is that just part of the transmission oil in a front wheel drive?

No, if solely a front wheel drive, there is no "fluid" exchange to the rear. There are wheel bearings in the rear, however, that may need service from time to time. Also note many fwd cars (and some rwd/awd) can benefit from a four wheel alignment...at least every time one purchases new tires. The fwd cars that are actually awd will have some service requirements for the rear drive differential as well.

Getting a free computer scan at an auto parts store from time to time may uncover pending issues that have not affected the car's operation yet. I get mine scanned every now and then when I remember to do it...caught a fuel injector on its way out on my F250 once.

 

[doghouseman]

Front “diff” is part of the trans, and called the trans axle so that gets covered with trans fluid change. Oil changes are the major concern depending on the motor it’s good to change the coils when you do plugs if you have not done them at this point but yeah 250k is the new 100k

Yes, I remember back in the day replacing the plugs every 15K or so. With fuel injection, things are running much cleaner these days and not fouling up the plugs.

 

[stepvan]

Yes, I remember back in the day replacing the plugs every 15K or so. With fuel injection, things are running much cleaner these days and not fouling up the plugs.

Technology advancement in materials too have been a game changer

 

[bobio]

2001 Mustang GT - 200K on it when I sold it.
I did all the maintenance on it from top to bottom, she was my baby for 12 years.
I changed the oil and filter at 10K intervals with Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
I flushed ALL of the fluids that don't normally get attention at 100K such as rear diff, trans, brakes, cooling, etc.



2017 Prius Three Touring - 75K and still going strong with absolutely no issues.
I will be 60 next year and I am not that fond of crawling around under cars anymore.
She has been dealer cared for since new and for the foreseeable future.
She is paid for and I fully expect she will easily make it to 200k as well.

 

[arlum]

Fluid levels and replacement as required. Just because you've got tranny, coolant or brake fluid doesn't mean you're good to go. They all break down over time. At recommended intervals have them completely drained and replaced. Checking and replacing all hoses and belts before they wear to the point of leaks, breakage or worse is very important. Certain components need to be flushed from time to time to keep passages, walls, etc. free of buildups. Keeping the engine, etc. internally clean adds a huge amount to the life expectancy of the vehicle. Its better to replace pads than rotors. Paint sealants. Keeping dirt out of where it shouldn't be. A solid routine maintenance plan can add years to the life of your vehicle. I don't trade vehicles in. I buy them and then drive them until there's nothing left to drive. 100,000 miles is just a stepping stone.

 

[memorex]

My 2006 Hyundai has less than 80K miles and I drive less than 1,000 miles/year. So, it ought to hit 100K maybe 20 years from now. My wife's 2017 Hyundai has 8K miles, and she drives less than I do. It will outlive us both.

 

[39martind18]

On many vehicles, changing out the timing belt at around 100K is critical as well. If the engine is running and a timing belt breaks, major damage can result. Don't ask me how I know...

 

[Powdog]

You need to have a regular maintenance schedule and stick to it. I’ve taken care of my own cars for over 40 years and don’t remember any car not making it to 200,000 miles. I tend to really hang on to cars. No more carburetors (remember those?) but computer controlled cars have their own ills. But the most important thing IMO is to change the motor oil every 6K miles and trans fluid every 30K. Obviously keep an eye on the filters, plugs, tires and brakes. Don’t ignore squeaking brake pads. On 4 and 6 cyl engines replace that timing belt at the correct interval. If that breaks, you’re porked.

 

[TeleBluesMan]

On many vehicles, changing out the timing belt at around 100K is critical as well. If the engine is running and a timing belt breaks, major damage can result. Don't ask me how I know...

This. And it makes sense to change the water pump when you replace the timing belt.

 

[memorex]

On many vehicles, changing out the timing belt at around 100K is critical as well. If the engine is running and a timing belt breaks, major damage can result. Don't ask me how I know...

Just changed the timing belt on my 2006 Hyundai at 78K miles. It runs like new.

 

[Boomhauer]

My wife bought her car with over 100,000 miles on it - it was a company vehicle fresh off of a lease. She's put 130k on it since then. The only real issues are a few little leaks inside the engine so it's burning oil a wee lil' bit, but...well, my car is newer than hers but mine is quickly turning into a rust bucket; body panels are rusting out like you wouldn't belive.

 

[bgmacaw]

The most likely point of failure on modern vehicles seems to be the various computerized controllers. They tend to work really well until they don't, usually on a busy road with no where to pull over. Plus, one little glitch in a firmware update can leave you stranded as well. Even worse, some car companies link the operation of these controllers to each other, potentially causing an unimportant failure cascade into shutting the engine down (scowling at you GM).

The increased dependence on controllers for smooth operation also means that old school "shade tree" mechanics shouldn't be doing DIY maintenance work on modern vehicles. This might also apply to your cheap oil change places where training and skill level is minimal, for example, Walmart auto centers or Pep Boys.

 

[doghouseman]

2001 Mustang GT - 200K on it when I sold it.
I did all the maintenance on it from top to bottom, she was my baby for 12 years.
I changed the oil and filter at 10K intervals with Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
I flushed ALL of the fluids that don't normally get attention at 100K such as rear diff, trans, brakes, cooling, etc.

View attachment 1034506 View attachment 1034510

2017 Prius Three Touring - 75K and still going strong with absolutely no issues.
I will be 60 next year and I am not that fond of crawling around under cars anymore.
She has been dealer cared for since new and for the foreseeable future.
She is paid for and I fully expect she will easily make it to 200k as well.

View attachment 1034511 View attachment 1034512

I flushed ALL of the fluids that don't normally get attention at 100K such as rear diff, trans, brakes, cooling, etc.

yes, this is what I am thinking too. I have two cars coming up to 100K and flushing ALL fluids is a good idea.

 

[reactor99]

Some transmissions are easily damaged by the wrong fluid - go with factory fluid or check whatever forum exists for your vehicle to see what works well

 

[Preacher]

Technology advancement in materials too have been a game changer

On many vehicles, changing out the timing belt at around 100K is critical as well. If the engine is running and a timing belt breaks, major damage can result. Don't ask me how I know...

I think the advancement of machine work has really impacted the longevity of engines. The cast iron blocks of yester year are all replaced with machined blocks with aluminum heads, tolerances are so much better today meaning that the engines are built so much better.

However, the auto makers know this as well, so out with the old timing chain which very very very seldom had issues and in with the timing belt which has to be changed every 100K or so. So the auto makers made an inference engine with such small tolerances that if you break that timing belt while driving the pistons smash into the heads causing you to pretty much replace the heads and the pistons essentially scrapping your motor.
It amazes me that in the routine maintenance schedule, buried under the standard oil, air cleaner, differential, transmission and other basic changes, they mention the timing belt at like 100K. What they don't tell you is if you do all of the standard maintenance and neglect spending at least $400 changing the timing belt you run the risk of ruining the engine.

 

[keithb7]

All parts wear. Waiting until something fails often costs you considerable time and money. The timing belt is a good example. Here's another example. Say you have 100,000 mile car. You take it on a weekend road trip. Hundreds of miles from home a wheel bearing fails. You are now broke down. You get a tow truck to tow it to the local garage. They are backed up. So a few days delay. You might take a bus home, or stay a night or two in a local hotel. You pay a premium price for the part, plus hundreds of dollars for labor cost. Turns out that 100,000 mile wheel bearing sure cost you a lot. Assume maybe it's your wife and kids and you are not with them. Now Momma is quite PO'd. She missed the family wedding in Maine. Say something like this happens 2x. So she starts pressuring you to buy a new vehicle. Say $30,000 later, you both have more security, yet a considerable debt.

My method is...100,000 miles, that wheel bearing has served me well. Rock auto replacement is purchased and mailed to my door. I plan to replace it on a weekend in my garage, or out in the driveway in fair weather.
I do at on my time, at controlled costs. That wheel bearing just cost me $100 or so to replace. It had served a good life anyway. Why push it to failure and much added out of cost expense? I'll so two rear bearing one time. Later the front two maybe. Open CV boots and lube them. Sway bar link ends. I keep an eye on the brakes. Replace pads before complete destruction of metal on metal meaning new rotors needed before you got full life. Replace/flush brake fluid when it starts appearing darker, meaning it has absorbed moisture.

I cant tell you exactly how much money I have saved on vehicles in my lifetime. I can tell you its a ton.

 

[doghouseman]

The most likely point of failure on modern vehicles seems to be the various computerized controllers. They tend to work really well until they don't, usually on a busy road with no where to pull over. Plus, one little glitch in a firmware update can leave you stranded as well. Even worse, some car companies link the operation of these controllers to each other, potentially causing an unimportant failure cascade into shutting the engine down (scowling at you GM).

The increased dependence on controllers for smooth operation also means that old school "shade tree" mechanics shouldn't be doing DIY maintenance work on modern vehicles. This might also apply to your cheap oil change places where training and skill level is minimal, for example, Walmart auto centers or Pep Boys.

I think you are correct. And it is not just GM. I had a Nissan Titan that completely died on 95 in DC on Thanksgiving weekend. Turned out it was a relay and a common problem. Shut everything down. Really got my attention ;-) It did not make the news like the GM problem did, but it was basically the same type of problem.