$100 Tele Style Build Redux

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Aug 18, 2016.

  1. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I have often hoped that one of the build challenges would get back to this kind of thing but it hasn't happened. In another thread, the topic came up. I decided I'd give it another try as I have all the hardware here. I have a few necks and fretboards under way, but thought I'd start from scratch on the neck part to try out a different truss rod application.

    I went to my wood guy to buy some maple. On the top of the pile was an S2S 13/16 x 4x 79" board. I bought it for $12.72 including sales tax. That should yield 3 neck blanks. at $4.24 per unit with about 1/2" to spare on each one...I'll have to be accurate with my cutting.

    [​IMG]




    I'll start with the neck and that will determine how much I can spend on the body.



    I have some maple fretboards that I resawed off of 12/4 maple plank I had here. These were roughly 3/8 x 3x 24" . 12/4 maple sells for $8.20 BF. today.

    .375 x 3 x 24 = .1875 BF or $1.54 at 2016 pricing.

    Total Maple cost for neck is then $5.78



    On the way down I spied some free pallets on the other side of the road. I drove past without taking one, as I would prefer some other body wood than that. Free wood is out there if you look.

    A truss rod will probably run me about 4-5 dollars to make. A steel rod is $2.61 at lowes. A truss rod nut could vary. An acorn nut runs about $1.66, an F style is $2.98 at stewmac. A similar nut is $3.05 at LMII. I have some of each.

    Here are 3 of the 5 fretboards I made a few weeks ago. They are quartersawn and have been jointed on the bottom. I radiused , drilled, and tapered them on my cnc. The machine marks are still there on top, but that'll be taken care of later after they are glued on.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2016
  2. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Been mulling over a $100 build myself... I think I can do it!
     
  3. Moldy Oldy

    Moldy Oldy Tele-Meister Ad Free Member

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    This should be fun.
     
  4. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I think you can. It's just a matter of what you want to buy and build yourself I guess.
     
  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I hope it's fun too.
     
  6. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I changed the abrasive on my thickness sander and sanded down the now shorter blank to about 1/64 over the needed 3/4" thickness. I also jointed both edges to get off the potential splinters. One edge is marked with an x for my reference edge. I want to do the truss rod slot while a rectangle, and possibly the peghead thickness early, so I can drill the 3 degree anchor hole. That hole is the hardest operation to do on a vintage style neck in my opinion. There's a blemish in the wood on this side on the left. It could be from the sticker ( sticker stain?) they used during drying or just an anomaly in the grain.

    [​IMG]

    I'm trying to decide whether to make this neck old school style or to use the cnc for the next steps. I guess I'll find out soon enough.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2016
  7. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  8. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    OK...the cnc won out. I figured I'd have to make a router planing jig and truss rod slot jig, so I just went to my cnc which I've already used for some necks this month and it is set up for it.

    Now my cnc router only moves 25" long and a tele style neck is longer than that, so I had to improvise.

    I drew the parts at an angle and did the perimeter cut and truss rod slot at an angle. Interestingly enough, there is a gcode for telling the machine to go at the angle you desire. G63... you type in the angle you want, in this case 23.526 degrees.

    I have a piece of plywood down to help with placement of the wood and double stick tape to hold it down.

    [​IMG]

    I do the perimeter in (6) 1/8" passes. I could take more off on each pass but maple is pretty hard.

    [​IMG]

    Getting down there near the plywood

    [​IMG]

    Truss rod slot

    [​IMG]

    Remove the scrap

    [​IMG]

    Pry off the neck and clean up any flash on it. Total time 10 minutes to perimeter cut and drill holes. 1 minute to do truss rod with a 2 minute tool change in between. I couldn't make a jig that fast.

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. src9000

    src9000 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I have to say that I'm jelly.
    And GAS'in for a CNC machine.



    10 minutes, wow.
     
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  10. jvin248

    jvin248 Poster Extraordinaire

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    On the CNC setup ... what steps do you go through to locate the stock accurately and are you carving the back with the CNC, so you need to 'flip' the blank accurately and locate?

    This particular setup it looks like a big plywood base, test cut in the base, then lay the blank over to cover and you know you're ok and you may be hand carving the rest so it doesn't matter here, but I suspect you have done this in the past and am curious about the locating before/after a flip.
     
  11. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Yep, and this machine is only capable of 50 in/minute. Most of the others go faster. It's hard to go back to the old way when you can do it this way.
     
  12. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    For this batch of necks, I ran the program in the plywood to see where the toolpath would go. Then I just lay the wood on the tape, covering up the tool routs in the plywood. I set the zero to the zero on my drawing, which is about -1.5x and .5Y from the right rear corner of travel.

    I generally do the perimeter, back carve, and then truss rod on these necks I made most recently. Then I put a keyway in the truss rod slot on the plywood for fret scribing and peghead thicknessing on the top side of the neck blank. On a few of these I have done a two piece neck and a couple one piece.

    I did a batch of 5 rosewood necks last summer and wanted to do about 5 more of maple ones this summer. You can never have enough parts to make incomplete guitars.

    I'll hand carve this neck for this build.

    When I do the flip, I reset my zero on the end of the neck on the centerline. That is 0,0 on my drawing too.

    It'll scribe the slots from this point. Then I'll change to a 1/8" bit to do the nut slot and dot holes, and lastly taper the fretboard.

    When I do the flip, I reset my zero on the end of the neck on the centerline. That is 0,0 on my drawing too.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2016
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  13. GunsOfBrixton

    GunsOfBrixton Tele-Afflicted

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    Good stuff Marty. winding your own pickups on this one or buying a cheap set?
     
  14. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Thanks Robert.. pickups...It depends... I have some MIC ones here at about 5 dollars each. Alnico magnets run about 1 each and wire would cost something too. I might roll my own if I can afford to. It's always a tradeoff to decide where to put the money... paint/wood/pickups in this kind of thing.
     
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  15. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Scrape both glue surfaces on the fretboard and neck to expose new wood cells. Add titebond. Use brads to keep it from moving around. Clip brad heads off. Put on clamping caul. Clamp. Look for squeeze out. Wait 30 min... unclamp.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
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  16. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Unclamped. Remove brads. Scrape cheesy glue off as much as possible.



    [​IMG]



    Here is a shot of the caul. It's just a piece of poplar that has been jointed flat and straight on the bottom. I routed a shallow channel in the middle along the length to concentrate clamp pressure toward the edges of the fretboard. It has clamped a few fretboards in its lifetime...see the number of holes poked by cut off brads.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2016
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  17. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I'm really happy to have a rainy day today.... it's been severe drought conditions and we are about 7 inches below average for the past few months. I may have to cut the grass this month.

    I was thinking about gluing together some cutoffs I've saved... Rosewood and maple. I thought it would be cool if I could pull off a checkboard top. I've never made one ( a chess board) with wood this thin.... so we'll see what happens.

    No charge for scrap wood right? I'll have to look in the basement for more rosewood.

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. LeftFinger

    LeftFinger Friend of Leo's

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    I must be the only one here that doesn't know what redux means as it pertains to guitars. Is it simply to redo, as to build another $100 guitar ($130 Canadian)
    Looking good by the way
     
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  19. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Thanks and yep, the first challenge was the original 100 challenge. Pronounced Re Ducks...oddly enough by the robot on the internet. We aim to be the educational thread here....LOL.


    re·du
    rēˈdəks,ˈrēˈdəks/
    adjective
    adjective: redux
    1. brought back; revived.
      "the 1980s were far more than just the '50s redux"
    Origin
    upload_2016-8-21_11-40-48.png
    late 19th century: from Latin, from reducere ‘bring back.’
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2016
  20. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I fitted a skunk stripe to the back of the neck. It's just sitting in there...it isn't glued in.

    [​IMG]
     
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