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1 Piece Maple Neck - Double Action Rod??

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Slowtwitch, Apr 15, 2021.

  1. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Holic

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    To date I've not wanted to attempt a 1 piece maple neck because of the curved truss rod design Fender uses with a single action rod.

    I've come across a youtube tutorial where the guy installs a double action rod (heel adjust) with a straight router channel. The slot runs right through the heel, so the skunk stripe runs from the nut to the back edge of the neck.
    Screenshot from 2021-04-15 17-57-20.png

    Is this a common way of neck construction?
    Is there any issues with doing it this way?
    How deep should the rod channel be? If the neck is 1inch thick and you have a theoretical fretboard of 0.25 inches (6.3mm) I would assume the channel is 0.75 inch deep so the rod sits just under the FB. Correct?

    What else?
     
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    You'd put the rod in the same spot as if it were a 2 piece neck. Pretend you have a 1/4" fretboard on it. Some guys here have done it with epoxy. I wouldn't , but I've done it with a dovetail in the skunk stripe.
     
  3. erix

    erix Tele-Meister Silver Supporter

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    Great timing - I am going to start a neck like this in a couple of days!

    I was going to use a blank a little over an inch thick and route the channel 3/4" as you said. My truss rod requires a 1/4" wide slot but before I route that to the 3/4" depth I am going to route a slot 3/8" wide and 3/8" deep (or so...) to receive the skunk stripe. In this way the glue joint will be up and away from the truss rod.

    Can you post a link to that vid?
     
  4. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Holic

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    The difference though is with 2 piece I'm routing from the top, now I'll be routing from the back
     
  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Right ..you measure the neck blank, subtract 1/4". That's how deep the slot has to go, which is where the bottom of the fretboard would be.
     
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  6. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Holic

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  7. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Holic

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  8. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    When you think about how a double acting rod works, pushing up in the center of the neck on the fretboard (if there is one) and down at the nut and heel you can see that its trying to push the skunk stripe out. Is it a good idea? I don't know, I've never done it. Here is a double acting rod, adjusted to neutral then one turn CW on the adjuster. The straight edge is where the f/b would be in a normal neck.

    IMG_6623.JPG
     
  9. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Holic

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    Very good point you making there Freeman. I guess that's why Marty did a wedged in skunk on that link he shared above.
     
  10. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    I've done many and in my brotherhood builds I'll be doing 2. I rout 13/16" deep in the channel to keep some depth to the skunk stripe. I don't rout the channel all the way through the heel. I go just past where the 2 rods are welded at the end by the adjustment nut and drill through the heel for the adjustment nut. The potential issue in doing this is when contouring the back of the neck if you go too thin at the first fret - like .80" - you risk the skunk stripe popping out when you adjust the rod. It happened the first time I did one. I usually don't go any less than about .86". I also flood the skunk stripe with CA right after contouring and before finish sanding. Haven't had a problem since.

    The alternative is doing a maple cap 2 piece.
     
  11. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    Compression and bending rods work entirely differently - a compression rod wants to be as far behind the neutral axis as possible and have as much curve as it can, the bending (double acting rod) wants to be close to the neutral axis. There was a pretty good article in a recent issue of American Lutherie about how the various rods act.
     
  12. old wrench

    old wrench Friend of Leo's

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    I've built most of my necks this way - one-piece, with 2-way truss rod, and skunk stripe.

    Like @RickyRicardo mentions, the skunk stripe needs to be installed as solid as possible.

    That means the skunk stripe having enough depth and a proper fit so you'll get maximum performance from the glue joint.

    I've always drilled for the truss rod at the heel so that end of the rod doesn't rely on just on the skunk stripe for structural integrity, and on my new necks I also drill for the last inch or so of the rod at the headstock end.

    I route a 1/4" wide groove for the rod and then use that groove as a pathway and guide for an extra-long 1/4" drill bit for the drilling at the head stock end.

    I modified a couple of 1/4" wide wood chisels to excavate the hole at the head stock end to get the added height needed to install the rod.

    On my 2021 BrotherHood build I'll be documenting this method (when I get back to it ;)).

    Done this way, you end up with a shorter skunk stripe (about the same length as on the old style Fender necks) and I believe you end up with a stronger installation.

    But, you still have to have a proper fit and a proper glue joint on the skunk stripe so it can resist the potential force if you need to crank down hard on the truss rod adjuster to get your desired relief :).

    Caveat - the skunk stripe glue joint has to be good ;).


    .
     
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  13. erix

    erix Tele-Meister Silver Supporter

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    These post have great info, thanks all!

    Curious about making the skunk stripe same width as truss rod slot = that’s strong enough? I thought making mine wider (almost) doubles the gluing surface but maybe not needed?

    RR: when you say flood with CA do you mean the joint or the whole piece of skunkwood?

    I’m looking forward to seeing your respective builds, any chance you could do yours before I start mine.:D
     
  14. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    George does it exactly as I do. The skunk stripe can be the standard size of 1/4" but make sure it's snug, has a really good fit and as he said glue it well. I use yellow glue. I save the sawdust from shaping the stripe and fill in any gaps after doing the contour. I flood the whole piece with CA and it wicks in. When you sand it it looks perfect. I generally use walnut. I like that it looks like a factory neck. I'll be doing mine in the next couple of days.
     
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  15. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Holic

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    Pls share the build here when you do it
     
  16. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    It'll be in my brotherhood builds. I'll share the links after I post.
     
  17. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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